Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 258 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,654 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I added this to the 1st post to make it easier. No searching for the details...


This is written for and directed at persons who have a general understanding of common hand tools (including automotive related). It also assumes the person has, or has access to, the necessary tools to complete the job. You can refer to my pictures for visual reference.

I would suggest you remove the CDD completly and replace it with union connector.

Of course, this is done at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for you choosing to modify your car. Yes, I am sure this will void your warranty.

--------------------------------

Part I – Remove, extract internals, and replace the CDD
Open your hood and locate the Clutch Dampening Device (CDD). It is located on the drivers-side, next to the firewall.

Place a cloth under the CDD and the lines that run into it (you DO NOT want to get any fluid on paint or other surfaces). Unscrew the two lines that enter the right and left side of the CDD. There should not be much, if any, fluid that drips out of the lines.

Unscrew the bolts that hold the CDD to the car frame. Be careful when you pick up the CDD because fluid will probably drip out.

OPTION 1:Take the CDD to your work area and use your 27mm socket to remove the brass end cap. Pull or shake out the internals. Screw the brass end cap back on.
OPTION 2: I suggest you use a brake line union instead of removing the guts of the CDD.

Using the two bolts, bolt the CDD back on the car frame. Or...skip this and go to the next step...if you are using the brake union connector (not using the origional CDD).

Screw the two lines back into their respective ends. Make sure you do not over tighten/strip these screws.

Part II – Bleed the line
Look down through the engine and locate the red part sticking off the side of the drivers-side of the transmission. You will see a bleeder screw. This is what you need to get access to.

Jack up the front of the car and place jack stands under it. If you are using a floor jack, you can place the jack under the front, in the middle, on the metal plate (all the rest is plastic covered). Place the jack stands on the frame just behind the front wheels (NOT where the spare tire jack would go).

Under the drivers-side of the car, remove the necessary screws that enable you to remove or pull out of the way the plastic crap (about 5/6 screws). Some of these are not conventional screws, but fasteners that require a “unscrew” then a “pop”.

Pull the cap off the clutch reservoir (mounted to the firewall, behind the CDD). Go under the car and hook up the bleeder hose to the bleeder screw. If you bought the $50 pump bleeder tool…life is easy. If you bought the $6 gravity bleeder…life is harder. Loosen the bleeder screw. Bleed the line, being sure never to let the reservoir empty. You will suck down a good portion of a new bottle of fluid (uses brake fluid). Tighten the bleeder screw and remove your bleeder hose.

Part III – Put your car back together
Now put your car back together…by doing everything in reverse (I always wanted to say that). :) :)

----------------------------------------------------

PICS






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,157 Posts
Re: UPDATE: Manual Owners - Clutch Dampening Device (CDD)

i would suggest replacing that with the proper fittings, just for visual appeal, if not anything else, what did you do, only use a hammer and a screwdriver :D

that must have been an expensive vice as well :p

i'll snap a pic of mine, if you want to see the fittings and what not, let me know, glad you like it without, i did as well

-gte







redline814 said:
For the manual owners who don't care for the clutch dampening device (CDD)...that causes the s-l-o-w release of the clutch when above 3500rpm...I have some pics of what exactly is in that octagonal piece...

Click me for pics

As you can see, before I went out and bought the 27mm socket, I chewed-up the piece pretty good :-? Having the proper tools always helps!

I just took out the inside crap and put it back in the line. HUGE difference. The clutch is much more responsive...not "watery" or "sloppy" and does not "stick" when dropped at a high rpm.

I plan on taking it out altogether, but it was to damn cold for me to change it out today (35 deg). I would even go as far to say..."removal of this device might lower a 1/4 mile time by a couple tenths of a second". When you shift, there seems to be more of an "instant" power transferred to the wheels. Kinda feels like an old car that has had a slipping clutch...and you get it replaced...and now, in the first 3 gears, you can get it to chirp!

Once I take the whole thing out of the line, I will report back as to how it feels.

If anyone wants to know more details on how to do it, just ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,654 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I could have made a funny video during this task...
The vice was bolted to a work bench, that I kept pulling over. I had one foot up on it and two hands on the wrench...

When I couldn't get that brass end-cap to unscrew, I thought maybe it was reverse threaded...hummmmm....NOPE.

All the above = One hosed part :-?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,606 Posts
Great post. Do you think you can make a step by step walk through on how to change it out. The only part I really need some hints on is bleeding the system and such.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,523 Posts
Re: UPDATE: Manual Owners - Clutch Dampening Device (CDD)

Inquiring minds want to know!

redline814 said:
If anyone wants to know more details on how to do it, just ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
is this a hard thing to do? i want to do this because i hate how the clutch is so soft right now. could i screw anything up by taking out the internals of the CDD? would it be possible to put back together if i had to for some reason? any details you have would be greatly appreciated! thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,808 Posts
So you removed the CDD, took the internals out, and put the case back on....correct?

How hard was this to do? I hate the clutch right now...it needs to be way more responsive.

Is there any way you give a more detailed explaination of the proceedure. It would be much appreciated.

Great work, by the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,388 Posts
This may be a dumb question but...is this gonna void the warranty? I'm thinking the dealer ain't gonna like this but then again they may never even know since its not in the parts book. :-?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Rllis300

Rllis300,

It don't matter what you do to your car, is still slow than mine. hehehehe
I think it time for you to swap out your motor and get a gs430 motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,890 Posts
So you took out the springs and the plastic cups? That is what made the clutch more sesitive? Is it as simple to do as the pictures show?--it sure looks simple :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,155 Posts
stick said:
So you took out the springs and the plastic cups? That is what made the clutch more sesitive? Is it as simple to do as the pictures show?--it sure looks simple :)
the CDD is (seems to be) a simple machanical pressure regulator type fluid speed controller, so its basically a simple MOD to do (imo).
be warned tho, seeing what redline has done to open up the CDD, it's purdy damn heavily sealed up. :eek:


here's a thought:
wouldnt it be easier to replace the whole CDD w/ a proper replacement hose?(skipping the whole CDD system)
i think it'll be easier to do than dissecting the CDD, etc.
well, what do i know :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,523 Posts
By the sound of it, IS300GTE probably did something like that when he said, "i'll snap a pic of mine, if you want to see the fittings and what not."

blueIS said:
here's a thought:
wouldnt it be easier to replace the whole CDD w/ a proper replacement hose?(skipping the whole CDD system)
i think it'll be easier to do than dissecting the CDD, etc.
well, what do i know :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,157 Posts
i did, i used pretty fittings





JW said:
By the sound of it, IS300GTE probably did something like that when he said, "i'll snap a pic of mine, if you want to see the fittings and what not."

blueIS said:
here's a thought:
wouldnt it be easier to replace the whole CDD w/ a proper replacement hose?(skipping the whole CDD system)
i think it'll be easier to do than dissecting the CDD, etc.
well, what do i know :lol:
 

·
Mr. Negative
Joined
·
12,387 Posts
I told my bud at the local Lexus dealership that's a tech and he put together a few parts and did one for himself.

I think he made it with Toyo parts so it's probably not the most economical though, but if you guys are interested maybe he'll give up the info or piece together a fitting kit.

Anyone interested?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,654 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ALL...

I wanted to wait until I totally removed the CDD and replaced it with a hard line before I posted all the details, but I got excited and had to share the excitement. I just wanted to let you guys/gals know it would work without having to remove the CDD (=$0 for parts...less the cost of fluid, if you did not have any around). I feel the correct way is to remove the CDD and replace it with a hard line. But, that is up to the individual owners/users.

I have received a couple of PM's asking for detailed instructions. I will post a write-up of the details (keeping the CDD in the line, but removing the internals) within the next day or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,808 Posts
redline814 said:
ALL...

I wanted to wait until I totally removed the CDD and replaced it with a hard line before I posted all the details, but I got excited and had to share the excitement. I just wanted to let you guys/gals know it would work without having to remove the CDD (=$0 for parts...less the cost of fluid, if you did not have any around). I feel the correct way is to remove the CDD and replace it with a hard line. But, that is up to the individual owners/users.

I have received a couple of PM's asking for detailed instructions. I will post a write-up of the details (keeping the CDD in the line, but removing the internals) within the next day or so.
Thanks a lot. Your the man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,587 Posts
Can you share the wealth???

IS300GTE said:
i did, i used pretty fittings





JW said:
By the sound of it, IS300GTE probably did something like that when he said, "i'll snap a pic of mine, if you want to see the fittings and what not."

blueIS said:
here's a thought:
wouldnt it be easier to replace the whole CDD w/ a proper replacement hose?(skipping the whole CDD system)
i think it'll be easier to do than dissecting the CDD, etc.
well, what do i know :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,388 Posts
Re: Rllis300

dolma said:
Rllis300,

It don't matter what you do to your car, is still slow than mine. hehehehe
I think it time for you to swap out your motor and get a gs430 motor.
I'll race you any day any time mang because I am getting stickers that will give me an extra 20 HP! :lol: So tell me (troll), what will I be racing...a G35 or an NSX? :wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
redline814 said:
ALL...

I wanted to wait until I totally removed the CDD and replaced it with a hard line before I posted all the details, but I got excited and had to share the excitement. I just wanted to let you guys/gals know it would work without having to remove the CDD (=$0 for parts...less the cost of fluid, if you did not have any around). I feel the correct way is to remove the CDD and replace it with a hard line. But, that is up to the individual owners/users.

I have received a couple of PM's asking for detailed instructions. I will post a write-up of the details (keeping the CDD in the line, but removing the internals) within the next day or so.

thanks, waiting for ur write up.. :D
i want to remove that soon also
 
1 - 20 of 258 Posts
About this Discussion
257 Replies
77 Participants
reklipz
Lexus IS Forum
Community dedicated to Lexus IS Enthusiasts. Come in and enjoy our articles, galleries and information on aftermarket parts for the IS300, IS250, IS350.
Full Forum Listing
Top