[maggie]

I'm coming from the Skyline community and I'm not too familiar with the IS300 chassis at all. I've been looking around at a few different resources and I'm sure I can figure out the minor details. I just wanted opinions on what I should be looking for as a starting point to achieve my end goal with the least headache or backtracking. Here's what I'm aiming for:

• Front sump 1JZGTE VVTi (JZS171/JZX110)
• Panic Link G4X PnP kit with harness
• Manual transmission
• Around 300-400whp
• All-around daily and drift car, looking to maintain all factory features (AC, dash controls, etc)

I'm aware the stock W55 isn't the strongest transmission and most likely be a weak point at my desired power levels. Going towards the idea of swapping a trans (R154 or W58) but I'm not sure if getting a factory manual as a starting point is worth it if it's going replaced later on. If I decide to start with an auto base, is there anything that I need to note with points above? Is there anything major that I'm missing or should be looking for? How would you guys go about it if you wanted to 1JZGTE swap in 2022?

 

[ill_mannered]

Considering that you’re gonna go with the link ECU and harness, it really doesn’t matter which you start with (auto or manual) since the link can work either way and still control the factory climate control and cluster.

Autos will probably fetch lower money initially and then the extra money you saved not buying a manual IS you can then buy a manual transmission swap.

Alternatively, finding the cheapest manual (if that exist) you can find that has a good body would work too as for obvious reasons makes changing to a different manual transmission easier but you will still need to pay extra for said “upgraded” manual gearbox.

 

[Piggity]

If you buy an automatic car, there is also the hassle of swapping all the manual parts like the pedals and transmission tunnel top. I'd do a search for the manual swap guide on the forum...sometimes it's easier to use google than search on the site.

 

[Mzs14]

I am nearing the tail end of your proposed plan and I would say that the money you save on the automatic is worth the minor work to add the third pedal and cut the tunnel. The only tricky part in the auto-manual work is finding a manual tunnel panel unless you go with a fiberglass alternative (they fit like shit and in my experience didn't come with the right bolt pattern for the retainer plates). The added bonus of an automatic car is the shorter gearing in the diff. Take your money saved and buy an R154 from drift motion.

 

[maggie]

Considering that you’re gonna go with the link ECU and harness, it really doesn’t matter which you start with (auto or manual) since the link can work either way and still control the factory climate control and cluster.

Autos will probably fetch lower money initially and then the extra money you saved not buying a manual IS you can then buy a manual transmission swap.

Alternatively, finding the cheapest manual (if that exist) you can find that has a good body would work too as for obvious reasons makes changing to a different manual transmission easier but you will still need to pay extra for said “upgraded” manual gearbox.

I'm open to finding a decently priced manual but the ones that are on market near me aren't exactly the cleanest bases to start on. Since there's so few compared to automatics, I feel like I'd also have to compromise in terms of color, interior, etc. I think you and Mzs14 have a good point in saving that extra money for something that will be an upgrade anyway, I was thinking the exact same thing.

If you buy an automatic car, there is also the hassle of swapping all the manual parts like the pedals and transmission tunnel top. I'd do a search for the manual swap guide on the forum...sometimes it's easier to use google than search on the site.

I watched a videos prior to posting and it seemed like the work to make the manual transmission work (mainly the tunnel top and adding the clutch pedal) were minor in comparison to the custom piping and fabrication needed for 1JZGTE. I'll take a further look at the topics posted by others doing manual swaps.

I am nearing the tail end of your proposed plan and I would say that the money you save on the automatic is worth the minor work to add the third pedal and cut the tunnel. The only tricky part in the auto-manual work is finding a manual tunnel panel unless you go with a fiberglass alternative (they fit like shit and in my experience didn't come with the right bolt pattern for the retainer plates). The added bonus of an automatic car is the shorter gearing in the diff. Take your money saved and buy an R154 from drift motion.

I was wondering if there was any other reason that people would hype up the manuals but it seems like for my goals an auto to start with would be just fine, if not better. That information regarding the tunnel panel and shorter gearing in the diff was the exact kind of obscure stuff I posted looking out for. Thanks to all that responded, I'll still respond to future comments but I'm heavily leaning towards getting an auto with the color/interior combo that I'm looking for and working my way to what I want it to be.

 

[01 SolarYellow]

I'm coming from the Skyline community and I'm not too familiar with the IS300 chassis at all. I've been looking around at a few different resources and I'm sure I can figure out the minor details. I just wanted opinions on what I should be looking for as a starting point to achieve my end goal with the least headache or backtracking. Here's what I'm aiming for:

• Front sump 1JZGTE VVTi (JZS171/JZX110)
• Panic Link G4X PnP kit with harness
• Manual transmission
• Around 300-400whp
• All-around daily and drift car, looking to maintain all factory features (AC, dash controls, etc)

I'm aware the stock W55 isn't the strongest transmission and most likely be a weak point at my desired power levels. Going towards the idea of swapping a trans (R154 or W58) but I'm not sure if getting a factory manual as a starting point is worth it if it's going replaced later on. If I decide to start with an auto base, is there anything that I need to note with points above? Is there anything major that I'm missing or should be looking for? How would you guys go about it if you wanted to 1JZGTE swap in 2022?

For that power level you do not need to swap out the 2JZGE VVTi. Just put a turbo. Or if you want more. Change the rods and pistons. Much easier that a 1JZ swap and cheaper. With the Link stand alone it would be super easy to just get an automatic car and add a pedal and tranny.

 

[Hodgdon Extreme]

+1 on simply using the 2JGE VVTi - unless you simply can't tolerate the "over the top" intake manifold. The stock bottom end is reliable to 350+hp, but the rods and pistons are fully interchangeable with GTE stuff - so you can either swap in stock GTE parts, or use any of the aftermarket rods/pistons meant for the GTE.

Regarding transmissions: unless you scare up some kind of super secret deal on an R154/AR5/AX15 setup, I'd look elsewhere.

 

[Thatblueis]

It's easiest in terms of work to buy a manual but the problem is these are often pretty rough because they are often drifted/ tracked and it narrows your search quite a bit. The stock autos with some work are plenty good enough for 400hp. If you want a manual the easiest way to swap a manual is a junkyard and rob everything you need. You'll get a deal and everything you'll need all together at the cost of waiting to find one and the drive to get to it. The 2jz will handle 400hp stock with a turbo kit fine the only benefit to swapping would be if you can find a gte version of either the 1 or 2jz which have stronger internals.

 

[FRaCTioNaL]

I was wondering if there was any other reason that people would hype up the manuals but it seems like for my goals an auto to start with would be just fine, if not better.

Because "ask any racer, any REAL racer"

 

[Lexus=1jzgte]

I'm coming from the Skyline community and I'm not too familiar with the IS300 chassis at all. I've been looking around at a few different resources and I'm sure I can figure out the minor details. I just wanted opinions on what I should be looking for as a starting point to achieve my end goal with the least headache or backtracking. Here's what I'm aiming for:

• Front sump 1JZGTE VVTi (JZS171/JZX110)
• Panic Link G4X PnP kit with harness
• Manual transmission
• Around 300-400whp
• All-around daily and drift car, looking to maintain all factory features (AC, dash controls, etc)

I'm aware the stock W55 isn't the strongest transmission and most likely be a weak point at my desired power levels. Going towards the idea of swapping a trans (R154 or W58) but I'm not sure if getting a factory manual as a starting point is worth it if it's going replaced later on. If I decide to start with an auto base, is there anything that I need to note with points above? Is there anything major that I'm missing or should be looking for? How would you guys go about it if you wanted to 1JZGTE swap in 2022?

hi there ive got a lexus is200/300 and ive done the engine swap
now the options you listed is right the ecu link , jzx 110 or jzx 171 and manual gearbox R154 is a must unless you want to go cd009 box or bmw 530d box. The 1j goes right in same mounts no issues,to fit the R154 box done the tunnel
prefit it in and mark the tunnel where it hit and you beat the panel in doing a manual is all worth it .
When you remove the ecu the fuel gauge stops working you need a mini ecu digtal to anologe Can bus controller from phoenix engine management in the uk.
Dont waste time with w58 gearbox it wont last.
The auto route is no fun as you dont get the same response and you would get from doing manual.

any questions ill help you look on my showcase you can see my boild

 

[Tunernoob]

The W55 will hold at the power level you posted (depending on abuse), 300-400 range you are also gtg on stock ge internals (past 400ish you run risks on both the stock ge and w55). Sourced from the internet, so it has to be true…..

 

[DemonIs300]

The W55 will hold at the power level you posted (depending on abuse), 300-400 range you are also gtg on stock ge internals (past 400ish you run risks on both the stock ge and w55). Sourced from the internet, so it has to be true…..

I'm glad you looked it up on the internet but the W55 if very hit or miss....some last under boost and other blows on stock power. It's depends on how much torque you push through it. If you are slamming through gears, it'll blow up fast but of you ease the torque into it, it should last a little while.