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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not very happy with my AEM intake pipe, the turbo keeps blowing the pipe out of the coupler. Which MAF charge pipe are you using? my IC pipes are 2.5".
 

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Back road boosting
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I'm not very happy with my AEM intake pipe, the turbo keeps blowing the pipe out of the coupler. Which MAF charge pipe are you using? my IC pipes are 2.5".


You pmed me about this a week or so ago. I said I have my old one from my TE kit. I'll take a pic of it when I get home and if u want it I'll give it to u for cheap.
 

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It's 5 o'clock somewhere.
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Woops, I read to quickly. I thought you said the actual maf sensor was blowing out of the pipe. Ignore my first post then.

In the case of the coupler blowing off, I agree with somguy, just get a bead roller.
 

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and please T-Bolt clamp. dont half ass it
 

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t-bolt clamps are soooooooooo overrated - if you have bead rolled ends a standard ring clamp works just fine and will have less leaks.
 

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t-bolt clamps are soooooooooo overrated - if you have bead rolled ends a standard ring clamp works just fine and will have less leaks.
What a BS statement...you've been making a lot of opinionated posts these days. Have fun
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
thanks for the links guys. i think i'm going to change out my AEM pipe anyway because i can get a charge pipe for a lot less than the cost of that aem intake.

edit: problem right now is to find a charge pipe that isn't too far off with my current setup (since most charge pipe has a 90 degree bend coming up from the IC instead of a 45 degree that i need.
 

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What a BS statement...you've been making a lot of opinionated posts these days. Have fun
thats not opinionated, that is from personal experience - and not just on my car, on many cars that i have been working with in the area.

i have yet to see any sort of problems from a standard ring clamp with bead rolled ends on piping.

if you have had bad experiences with standard ring clamps with bead rolled edges lets hear them!

edit:

not to long ago i was helpiong to work on and tune a local 3000gt vr4. he had it all t-bolted to high hell and we could tell he had a boost leak. he had bead rolled ends and me and my friend told this guy, get rid of your t-bolts and use standard ring clamps - so we went to autoshack and spent $10 for a crap ton of ring clamps swapped them all and BAM; no more boost leaks. he was upset, he paid $12 per t-bolt he said. we giggled and now his car holds 30+ psi happily :)

i had a similar expereince with my car, i am back to ring clamps, i never had a problem to begin with, just did it because everyone said to do so - but then i went back to the way it was because the car drove crappy with them - bogged down on spool up and wouldn't hold pressure. i still have yet to have a problem with ring clamps and bead rolled pipe ends.
 

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I'm not very happy with my AEM intake pipe, the turbo keeps blowing the pipe out of the coupler. Which MAF charge pipe are you using? my IC pipes are 2.5".
2.5"? I'm using 3" piping. Wouldn't a wider diameter produce more volume of air? Are mines too big?

What is the recommended size for piping?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2.5"? I'm using 3" piping. Wouldn't a wider diameter produce more volume of air? Are mines too big?

What is the recommended size for piping?
there are many factors to how big your ic piping diameter should be. 2.5" gives you a better response, 3" gives you more flow, etc. 2.5" is also much easier to fit in your bumper, while 3" requires you to cut into the chassis here and there.

2.5" is good up to 1.5bar (21-22psi) generally speaking. but if your turbo compressor outlet is 3" then i don't see the point of reducing it to 2.5". most charge pipe w/ the MAF bung on it is 3" though.

my t61 has a 2.5" outlet, and that's what i decided to stick with. SRT kit has a 2.5" hot side and 3" cold side, boostlogic up to stage 2 is 2.5" all around.
 

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Go with T-bolts if the connection is after the MAF sensor...

I have pressure tested dozens of turbo setups and although beaded, regular worm gear clamps tend to leak and seep through. They won't pop off with a beaded connection up to as much as 20-25 psi, but they do leak. If you have a leak at a connection post-MAF, then your A/F mixture will be off. Use T-bolt clamps for zero leaks and a positive seal throughout the entire circumference of the clamp :)
 
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