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Well I have an interesting question. I just went to verify that my main aftermarket key is in fact a master key transponder by doing the security light test. Sure enough, the security light turns off immediately as I insert my main key. I went to do the same test with my grey oem Lexus "valet" key and I was shocked when it too turns off the security light when inserted. How could this be? While doing all this, I also came to the unfortunate realization that the lock on my glove box is broken.. I can visually see that the lock itself is broken, I had just never needed to try and look it for anything, so I was unaware. Another important point is that both keys work perfectly for the door locks as well as the ignition, but my main "master" key is the only one that opens the trunk. My grey oem Lexus key, that I am referring to as my "valet"key, does not open the trunk, this is another reason why I am so confused that it turns off the security light when inserted in the ignition. What is going on here? Please help, I am literally just looking to have a spare key/clicker fob for the keyless entry that can also open the trunk. Do I just need to send pics of my "master" key? It is just like the Lexus oem key, but aftermarket with no Lexus badge, it appeared to be brand new when I got my is a year ago. I am just super confused as to why both of my keys had the same results with the security light test, yet only the main one with the fob opens the trunk. I am almost certain my grey regular Lexus key is a valet because it does not open the trunk, but why does it turn off the security light??
 

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Well I have an interesting question. I just went to verify that my main aftermarket key is in fact a master key transponder by doing the security light test. Sure enough, the security light turns off immediately as I insert my main key. I went to do the same test with my grey oem Lexus "valet" key and I was shocked when it too turns off the security light when inserted. How could this be? While doing all this, I also came to the unfortunate realization that the lock on my glove box is broken.. I can visually see that the lock itself is broken, I had just never needed to try and look it for anything, so I was unaware. Another important point is that both keys work perfectly for the door locks as well as the ignition, but my main "master" key is the only one that opens the trunk. My grey oem Lexus key, that I am referring to as my "valet"key, does not open the trunk, this is another reason why I am so confused that it turns off the security light when inserted in the ignition. What is going on here? Please help, I am literally just looking to have a spare key/clicker fob for the keyless entry that can also open the trunk. Do I just need to send pics of my "master" key? It is just like the Lexus oem key, but aftermarket with no Lexus badge, it appeared to be brand new when I got my is a year ago. I am just super confused as to why both of my keys had the same results with the security light test, yet only the main one with the fob opens the trunk. I am almost certain my grey regular Lexus key is a valet because it does not open the trunk, but why does it turn off the security light??
Each master/valet key consists of 2 parts. Key blade and transponder.

By definition a valet key is only permitted to start the vehicle and unlock doors. Trunk and glove access is blocked to prevent "valet" attendants to get in place where they shouldn't be. From the factory, the transponders are also learned into the ECU as a "valet" transponder to prevent access to program additional transponders into the ECU.

From the factory, master keys have no such limitations to trunk, glove box, and programming new transponders.

The valet key transponder can be reprogrammed into the ecu by the vehicle owner as a master transponder. But physically the key will still be limited from opening trunk or glove box. This is certainly a smart thing to do for in case the only other key is lost. (And when was the last time someone had their 1st Gen IS valet parked anyway).

There are many situations where security light and key blades won't match. And unless you are the original owner, there's no telling on what has happened to the vehicle and it's locks/ecu/keys.

Most often seen on the 1IS is the mismatched key from door to ignition due to common failure of the ignition switch on the 1IS.

Sometimes all keys are lost and ECU was replaced in order to start the car.
For instance, a replacement ecu only came with a valet transponder. The physical key blade can be cut by vin at Lexus/Toyota (or any competent locksmith) as a master key. So in this situation, a master key blade is available to open all doors/glove box but only a valet transponder is available to get the vehicle started. The transponder chip is tucked in the corner of the stock remote control in a factory style key.
So in this situation, someone could have just cut the transponder chip out of the valet key that came with the replacement ECU because the key blade didn't match their ignition and put it in a factory style remote control.

A remote can be programmed regardless of what types of key you have. Could be master/valet or even just a dummy key blade. The programming process only requires the ignition switch to be turned on once.

This is exactly why we emphasis on performing the master/valet key check by security before making a purchase.
 

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I have a key from him and have been using it for around 6 months now. Great quality compared to the oem key. Especially considering how cheap it is! Turn around time is very quick and programming it to your car takes all of 30 seconds
 

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Thank you so much for the response! Well I guess it is safe to assume that my valet key has been reprogrammed as a master transponder. That likely happened when my main aftermarket master key fob was created I am guessing.
 
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