Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Im new to the 2jz-ge platform, coming from an n54, So im looking for an n/a way to get to like 240-250whp, is there a cam i can throw in without boost and a tune? Looking to go boosted in a couple months, but looking for something to pass the time by, i heard 264 cams are good for like 215-220whp, how about 272’s? Or is that for like boosted? Thanks, just picked her up saturday
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
I have had both the 264's and the 272's. Both are able to be DD reliable but like said before the 272's will need more parts. What wasn't said about the 272's is you will need to tune the car accordingly so plan on having some sort of ability to tune the car. If I were you just get the 264's and i promise you you will be glad you have them.
Post link: https://www.my.is/forums/f88/264-272-cams-447233/

What you'll hear a lot is that questions like this have more or less been answered already, so search around, it's highly encouraged! But anyhow, welcome to the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
I think a really good start is ensuring the throttle opens all the way when you floor it...

I was really surprised when reviewing datalogs, to see that my TPS was only reporting 80-85% during full-acceleration runs.

With key-on, engine off, I calibrated my Haltech's TPS reading... Which is as simple as a mouseclick with your foot off the pedal, and another mouseclick when you floor it. I even had a friend hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while I visually inspected the throttle plate opening - it was WOT.

Nonetheless, my datalogs report 99-100% throttle upon initial full pedal acceleration, but shortly falls off to 80-85% for the rest of the run.

A $20 solution to this problem is the Xcessive Manufacturing DBW delete: https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/toyota/by-engine/1jz-2jz/2jz-ge-throttle-lock.html

This solves the problem, but I'm not a big fan of the accelerator feel - kinda stiff and vague.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Those cheap DBW kits suck as you either have to fight the motor or disconnect the motor completely and lose the idle control. The proper DBW delete is the Premium Japan kit as it still allows the motor to control idle, but it comes at a cost ($300+)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Those cheap DBW kits suck as you either have to fight the motor or disconnect the motor completely and lose the idle control. The proper DBW delete is the Premium Japan kit as it still allows the motor to control idle, but it comes at a cost ($300+)
I've not tried the fancy $300 one, but I do have one of the $20 Xcessive ones in my car right now. Idle control and cruise control work great. I've not been able to test traction control, but my understanding is that when TC kicks in, you'll get a lot of throttle motor feedback in the accelerator pedal.

In the regular driving I've done so far, I can't say I feel that I'm "fighting" the throttle motor. However, the pedal is definitely stiffer than stock. If you've ever noticed how the OEM setup feels like the pedal has a detent - where the pedal feels light up to a certain point where it gets stiffer...?? Well, you always feel that stiffness with the DBW delete. Enough so that it took a couple days to get used to it.

For $20 I'm not gonna complain too much, but I'm not in love with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I'm sure it works...but I'd be worried about the motor wearing out faster and eventually failing, putting the car in limp mode. It might be fine for a weekend/track car, but not a daily driver imo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
I'm sure it works...but I'd be worried about the motor wearing out faster and eventually failing, putting the car in limp mode. It might be fine for a weekend/track car, but not a daily driver imo.
Maybe so, but don't forget the OEM arrangement also has a mechanical over-ride of sorts. The accelerator pedal has about 30% command authority over the throttle blade - regardless of what the throttle motor is doing - which is what creates that "detent" feel in the stock pedal.

In day to day driving, my style is more of a high load, low rpm style. Meaning that if I'm in 4th gear @ 2000rpm and wanna pick up speed, I'll usually just go WOT rather than change down to 3rd. Obviously this is for moderate acceleration and not quick accel.

My point is, in my day-to-day, I feel that "detent" in my accel pedal very frequently, so I am frequently overcoming the throttle motor. I've not yet had any issue in the 35k miles I've put on that car.

I'm also planning to soon replace the OEM throttle with an LS3 (or similar) electronic throttle, so I'm not worried about hurting the OEM throttle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
The etcs-i throttle is capable of being controlled by a standalone. ProEfi does it, and I’ve got my Infinity 506 doing it. Took some voodoo with the PIDs, but works pretty good and gives idle control back to the standalone. Comes at a cost, loss of cruise control.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
The etcs-i throttle is capable of being controlled by a standalone. ProEfi does it, and I’ve got my Infinity 506 doing it. Took some voodoo with the PIDs, but works pretty good and gives idle control back to the standalone. Comes at a cost, loss of cruise control.
Can you get the standalone to open the throttle plate 100%?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top