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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hello everyone

ive been here for awhile but i havent decided to make a profile until now. ive got a 2001 black auto car, and ive added a couple of things to it.
- megan racing front upper strut bar
-compustar keyless/remote start ( WORKS PERFECT )
-memphis prx602 front speakers
-pioneer rear deck speakers
-kicker compr 12 inch / ported box
-kicker cax800.1 amp
-pioneer double din radio
-led interior lights
-used armrest from ebay
- delrin black shift knob
-Work Emotion T7R
-Bc Racing Coilovers

when i first got this car it had 105k on it and now its close to 112k, and replaced a couple of faulty parts. the vvti sensor went bad after the first fill up, then my rear brakes went out, and lastly im still getting the check engine light for a evap leak i cant find . besides that i like the car, but desperate to do more to it. :surprise:

I CANT fix the 2 photos but theres just a sample of my car
 

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im still getting the check engine light for a evap leak i cant find .
There is a well known failure point on top of the fuel tank. There is a fuel tank over-fill check valve that likes to crack, causing that generic P0440 trouble code.

The part is cheap, but accessing it is a bummer. To do it right, you'll need to remove the whole rear subframe of the car, so the fuel tank can be lowered out of the chassis. Once the tank is out, the checkvalve can be swapped over, and the whole thing reassembled.

Many folks chop a hole in floor of the car, under the rear passenger seat bottom on the passenger side:

Reference posts 29 and 36 in this thread: https://www.my.is/forums/f115/01-is300-p0440-pic-433853/index3.html

Welcome to the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
much appreciated and thank you ! im here to learn plus be more active in my possible questions i cant google
 

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Well, the newest of these cars are now 14 years old - so the knowledge-base is rather mature. Finding what you need is the challenging part.

If I might make a suggestion: if you don't already know, you can use the google machine to search this forum (or any other forum) specifically. For example, if I were interested in replacing wheel bearings:

 

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Discussion Starter #7
that looks like it's cutting it pretty close! Any rubbing or scraping? Lots of poke there
the front rear clears fine after the fender roll job , but my front rubs some. i can either camber the front to match the rear. or i could run a less aggressive setup to cure the poke. I PLAN to camber the front some not much to cure the look, and increase vertical clearance. below is a quick pic from todays rainy day shoot of it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE: got my front lip on ( its TRD style from Ikon Motorsports ) and did a quick release bumper install


NOTE this is my first writeup so read careful and at your own discretion.

tools need :
-quick release kit ( got mine from ebay for under $20 )
- 1" x 1/2" L brackets
-(2) 10mm nuts
-angle grinder
-10mm socket
-10mm ratcheting wrench
-3/8 ratchet
-channel locks (2)
-Uni-BIt

ok its ez so PAY attention- due to lowering your vehicle may cause the corners of the front bumper ( tabs ) to rub this is a fix for it . Also good for loading and unloading a is300 in a hurry

step 1
remove bolts holding corner tabs of bumper if still there. NOTICE after doing so you should see (3) nuts or locations to mount the quick release kit. on each side of the car use the lowest aka bottom right ( for drivers side ) and bottom left ( passenger side ) threaded hold to secure the L bracket for the quick release kit. REFER to pictures


step 2
once you mount the L bracket use the channel locks to bend the bracket out some to judge the angle of how far you want the quick release to sit ( the L bracket will be bent outwards ) excess threads on the back of the bolt used on each side so it doesnt hit the fender bracket ( it wont work if you dont cut the bolt either way. it would push the fender and your bracket too far outwards ) . after judging how the bracket sits for you cut the backside of the threads on the quick release bolt then mounting your bent L bracket to the car using a 10mm nut on the threaded hole on the car. YOU might get lucky and theres one on the car already to remove and use over your bracket. if not find a 10mm nut BEFORE starting this project. Again your using a 10mm nut to secure this bracket to your car on each side


step 3
with your bracket mounted use grease or some liquid to mark the HEAD of the quick release bolt onto the back of the inside of your bumper. once marked drill hole using the UNI-BIt to slowly make the hole bigger until the quick release button fits. i recommend painter tape on rach side to protect paint from damage aka spider webbing while drilling.

step4
if done correctly then adjustment to the quick release bolt will be needed to get your bumper sitting exactly how you want onto the bumper with the quick release button. At first it will clip in but may need to move in or out to sit correctly how you want. i only had to remove my l bracket and slowly trim the threads on the quick release to force the L bracket to sit closer to the car instead of poking the bumper and fitment out too much.

OVERALL:

its easy and only took a hour together on a cool day. i did this to fix bumper sag , and make it easier to remove my front bumper if needed to in the future . YES I KNOW my bumper isnt in the best shape but it looks better for now imo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
finally got some rollers of my car enjoy !
135517

If you look below he caught me being silly not even holding the wheel or paying attention lol

135518
 

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Discussion Starter #12
got my pictures from Tail of the Dragon. HIGHLY recommend everyone go there at some point if close by, or during a event. there are people hidden taken pictures of everything that drives by in the corners. got these from the popular "killboy" that does photography , but there are other good ones as well. and YES thats my friends R8 in front of me
 

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