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Went with Fluidampr for a Harmonic Damper solution. Solid product and works great. I'd be scared to try anything other than ATI/Fluidampr on the crank. Accessories are fine. I need that kit too
 

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Went with Fluidampr for a Harmonic Damper solution. Solid product and works great. I'd be scared to try anything other than ATI/Fluidampr on the crank. Accessories are fine. I need that kit too
Did you actually install/run a lightweight crank pulley before you went with the Fluidampr pulley?
 

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Did you actually install/run a lightweight crank pulley before you went with the Fluidampr pulley?
No, I do not trust light weight un-dampened crank pulleys especially on a street car. Accessory pulley kits I don't have issues with but i wouldn't even risk a street car with any other type of solution. My factory one separated prior to the upgrade.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought this thread was started to go off of actual experience/usage of a lightweight crank pulley not opinion or hearsay.

I figured since the motor is internally balanced and I'm still NA, to try the light weight crank pulley out. Granted, i'm only at 3,000 miles of usage. Only time will tell. But I have no issues to speak of. Hard to tell if my throttle response is improved due to the pulley or the lighter valvetrain.(installed same time)
 

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Hard to tell if my throttle response is improved due to the pulley or the lighter valvetrain.(installed same time)
If you're looking to have quicker throttle response, then installing the lightweight flywheel that Fidanza makes for our car, then you will notice a difference. I didn't notice any significant changes once my pulley was installed.
 

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I agree with you on the matter of light weight flywheels. As I did the NA Supra flywheel/clutch on my last IS300.

As stated before, I installed the lightweight crank pulley same time I installed bc cams & valves/retainers. So it's hard to say what improved what individually. But I would say the cams probably take credit for most of the improved throttle response.

*Update. I'm at 5,500 miles now with no issues.
 

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As stated before, I installed the lightweight crank pulley same time I installed bc cams & valves/retainers.
Which cams did you have installed? The 264's? If so, how are they? Worth the ~$700 investment?

Also, I have updated my mileage in my original post alongside engine mileage as I feel that is a somewhat important metric when it comes down to the reliability.
 

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Yes, I have the BC 264 cams with BC keepers, locks, springs, titanium retainers, & BC adjustable cam gear. The cams alone I think are worth it if you stay NA paired with the adjustable cam gear. More midrange to redline pull for sure.

However, I regret this purchase due to the amount of $ spent; since I now want to swap a turbo 2jz now & get a new R154 trans. I should have priced and planned better before buying.

I have 173,830 miles now. Installed the Driftmotion crank pulley at 168,800 in October, 2017.
 

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Yes, I have the BC 264 cams with BC keepers, locks, springs, titanium retainers, & BC adjustable cam gear. The cams alone I think are worth it if you stay NA paired with the adjustable cam gear. More midrange to redline pull for sure.
what adjustment do you have your cam gear set at? I installed one a couple of years ago, but it's at 0 and I forgot about it
 

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I had it set to "0" and felt nothing over stock. So I went from "-1to -5". I'm at -4 currently. Since -5 set off of the CEL. It definitely has more pull from 4k to redline. I want to Dyno and get a proper tune. But the ecu I'm looking at plus harness is $2500.
 

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So my accessory belt is squealing/chirping now. I have a new water pump, tensioner, & belt. So I sprayed a lil water on the aluminum crank pulley & the noise goes away. I've been doing this for a few days. It's annoying & embarrassing at stop/intersection/parking lot. I'm going back to stock pulley due to squealing. Will update.
 

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I had it set to "0" and felt nothing over stock. So I went from "-1to -5". I'm at -4 currently. Since -5 set off of the CEL. It definitely has more pull from 4k to redline. I want to Dyno and get a proper tune. But the ecu I'm looking at plus harness is $2500.
There’s a dyno of an exhaust cam on here. I think -3 was what they guy settled on. try to find it.
 

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I've tried numerous degrees. I indeed settled at -3.5 for optimal power without CEL. But my gas mileage took a huge hit. I went back to 0 when I started driving everyday. When I will track this car, I will go back to -3.5.
 

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I've tried numerous degrees. I indeed settled at -3.5 for optimal power without CEL. But my gas mileage took a huge hit. I went back to 0 when I started driving everyday. When I will track this car, I will go back to -3.5.
Generally I have seen -4 with cats is optimal. If you have no cats with a full sim on the downstream sensors. You can do -5.5 to -6...
 

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Indeed, -3 seems to be the spot without setting off the CEL. Some have/can retard even further. I really need a tune to maximize my mods. But for the AEM infinity/harness/tune is just not possible right now me. Need to save some more $.
 

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Took off the Driftmotion crank pulley due to the belt squealing. Went back to the stock crank pulley. I did notice that the motor revs a lil slower now. But I couldn't deal with the belt squealing anymore.
 

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Took off the Driftmotion crank pulley due to the belt squealing. Went back to the stock crank pulley. I did notice that the motor revs a lil slower now. But I couldn't deal with the belt squealing anymore.
Interesting how your belt has started squealing, I have not noticed a major squeal from my DM pulley. There is a very faint squeal that I have noticed, but you have to listen for it. I'm not sure how much you care to run the pulley, but I believe there are some certain serpentine belts that are more prone to make noise than others (due to design of the belts). I plan on changing my belt probably in the next 15,000 miles, so I can chime in if anything comes up.
 
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