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The k-sport coilovers, the actual strut bag was VERY easy to install, just like any other coilover
But the fittings included with the kit are NOT DOT approved, and they are a total pain in the ass to use.
The air line is only ¼” at least for the basic kit, so if I were you id go for with the PRO kit, or upgrade to bigger airline like I did, and also went with more valves, because the basic kit does not have normal valves, the valves are built into the switches, so you have to run all your airlines THRU the cabin.
Other than that, the viair compressor is quality (every one uses them for air ride suspension)
Now, the ride quality is AMAZING! With 18 clicks from hard(up front) and 10 clicks from hard in rear made the car handle better then stock even w/o sway bar end links(one of mine shit the bed)
Going over speed bumps SUCKS BALLS! With the hardness, but whatever you can adjust it all you want
Another good thing is it’s actually a coilover with a bag mounted on the top. You can adjust how much drop you want compared to stock (I did two inches shorter than stock) and I still have MORE than enough drop/raise.

All in all I’m VERY happy with ksport’s air ride struts. I recommend getting the pro package or upgrading the basic(new tubing/fittings DOT approved only cost $ 80)

Here are some pic’s of the coilovers installed and then dropped!!!





the front is totally locked up in that picture



I LOVE MY NEW K SPORT AIR BAGS!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thought I'd add that in the 2 months I have had them not a single issue with any component that came in the kit and I also drove 7 hrs continuously(speeds of 70mph+) and the ride was stock smooth even with the dampening closer to hard than soft
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it all depends what you want, a static drop or dynamic?

i can be 41/2 finger gaps(over 235/35/19's in rear) or at minus 4~ finger gaps(rims tucked in wheel wells)

this way when i drive on rough un even roads(like theres a 1/2 difference between the sides due to settling/tractor trailer road) i bump up the height and when im back to the new roads im about a 1 finger gap due to putting on spacers and making my offset +20

an don top of that all you can park it SLAMMED, i can't be towed away or booted due to there being no where near close enough room when the cars sitting on its tires :) or in the front w/ stocks on the control arm lol and even if the open my car up they still can't opperate the switches due to its power coming from an ACC source
 

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it all depends what you want, a static drop or dynamic?

i can be 41/2 finger gaps(over 235/35/19's in rear) or at minus 4~ finger gaps(rims tucked in wheel wells)

this way when i drive on rough un even roads(like theres a 1/2 difference between the sides due to settling/tractor trailer road) i bump up the height and when im back to the new roads im about a 1 finger gap due to putting on spacers and making my offset +20

an don top of that all you can park it SLAMMED, i can't be towed away or booted due to there being no where near close enough room when the cars sitting on its tires :) or in the front w/ stocks on the control arm lol and even if the open my car up they still can't opperate the switches due to its power coming from an ACC source
I understand all that. I was not clear enough with what I was asking. I wanted to know any difference in performance settings?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you got 36 different dampening settings, but if your hardcore into autox/drifting/roadracing id stick with springs n shocks

the car still rides like stock, but its extremely loose with alot of body roll, im sure some sways would make it better but only one way to tell....
 
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