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Discussion Starter #1
So I have some issues with my 2002 IS300 with 145,000 miles on it.

Sitting at a stop light I decide I am going to race the little Acura CL next to me that thinks his car is sweet. I hit the gas and get the car up to 4,000 RPMs and I lose all power and then the engine "lunges" and dies completely. All the idiot lights on the dash come on and I am dead on the road. So I pull over and park the car. I turn the key off and go to start it back up to see if it simply would restart. The engine cranks and starts but then immediately dies.

So, I read information from this forum as well as ClubLexus and see people talking about their fuel pump cutting out and hitting it with a hammer to correct it. So my brother comes to help and bangs on the fuel pump with a mallet as I am cranking over the car. The same occurs, the engine starts but immediately dies.

We start checking fuses. Swapping the ECR with the horn to make sure the relay isn't bad. Same outcome. So I start thinking a little further and come to the conclusion that the car is getting enough gas to start, but something is not allowing either fuel to continue to pump or air to be pulled into the engine.

I pull the plug on the MAF sensor and sure enough the car starts and idles. Of course, with the MAF sensor disconnected the TRAC OFF light flashes at me but the car will drive. So, I get the car home and today pull the MAF sensor out to clean it. It was very, very dirty. I was able to get the Red needle back to a dark red color, however, the wires in the MAF tube were caked with crap. I don't dare touch them as they are very, very brittle. I clean them both with Residue Free Electronics cleaner. I place the MAF sensor back in the car, disconnect the battery, pump the brakes ten time, wait ten minutes, pump the brakes again ten times and then reconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

I start the car and it immediately dies after firing up. At this point I have ordered a new Denso MAF Sensor from Rock Auto. It will be here Friday, but I am unsure as to what else could possibly be the issue besides the Fuel Pump not continuing to pump after start up.

I can tell you the guy I bought it from clearly did NO MAINTENANCE WHAT-SO-EVER on the car. It is a 2002 Lexus IS300 with 145,000 miles. I changed the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Accessory Belt at 144,000. The car has the CEL on, but it is for the O2 Sensors and a EVAP leak. No other codes are being thrown talking about air to fuel or anything else that I can see would cause the issue.

You guys are some of the most knowledgeable I know when it comes to these cars. Does anyone have any suggestions or things I could try to see what is going on. I am tired of listening
to the wife say "You bought a Lemon."

Thanks in advance.

Also, I test resistance on the MAF Sensor and found it to be bad, this is my justification for replacing it.
 

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It very well could be the MAF if you pulled the connector and had no change. What are your codes, I'm assuming you do have a CEL? You can also check on a scanner the airflow rate across the MAF. The specs are listed on the site.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The CEL is on, but has been on due to the O2 Sensors needing to be replaced. I am currently at work, but will post the codes as soon as I am off. I just can't remember them off the top of my head.

I have been researching a whole lot on this issue. I have seen info regarding the TPS sensor the IACV, cleaning the throttle body, doing a fuel pump ECU mod (?), changing the fuel pump, vacuum leaks, etc.

It seems to be kind of common, but not exactly to what I am describing.

I appreciate the help though.
 

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Well I would still verify a new code is now set or pending because you have a new issue. I have a feeling it has to do with your MAF or dirty oil control valve, both can be tested. The TPS should never really be touched nor the throttle control motor, which is considered our IACV. A throttle body cleaning usually will help a sluggish low idle issue but it sounds like something is out of the loop. That's why I also suggested taking a look at your realtime data like airflow, trims and of course any new DTC's.
 

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I agree, first pull your codes, that should point you in the right direction. If you still suspect a fuel issue, check your fuel pressure, could be your pump going out, clogged filter, or your pressure regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
See and that's where I am a bit lost. I am good with working on vehicles, yet when it comes to checking pressure on systems I am not sure how to do so. Looks like I better read up on some instructions to do so.

Three codes came up with the CEL. Found below.

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2
P0440 - EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction (Small Leak)

I have replaced my headers to aftermarket so I know why the O2 sensor codes are happening and I have had the EVAP code for a little while as well before this issue started. I haven't had the chance to check the vacuum hoses yet, but I will and figure the Charcoal Canister may need to be replaced if nothing else.

Other than those codes, there is nothing else. That's what is stumping me on this.
 

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Yea, the cat efficiency codes are there because no cats. You should look into a sim/delete. I believe Tokensolutions is back is serious.

P0440 is a small leak in the EVAP system. Check your gas cap, the lines around the CC VSV by the stock air box and the lines near the firewall (especially the one with the green service cap-make sure it's tight). Could just be a bad cap seal if that was the only EVAP code.

I think at this point I would check your realtime data(airflow, trims, sect, etc). I would try cleaning out the throttle body as well if the MAF was really dirty. It's possible your butterfly is hung up on some carbon. Use some carb/TB cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thans, I will get some real time data flows. Currently, I again disconnected the battery for about an hour this time. Reconnected and then tried starting again. Starts then dies, not a big surprise.

Checked the CEL codes as the O2 Sensor and EVAP were cleared and the codes it threw were as follows.

P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction

All signs are leading to the bad MAF sensor. I have a new one coming in on Monday.

I will pull the throttle body and completely clean it over the weekend so the MAF is ready to install Monday and see how it goes.

Again, thanks for all of the input and assistance. I will let you guys know what I find. Also, I will check the air flow and fuel trim and post the results. Not sure I can do that with my code scanner, but I will find out.
 

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Thans, I will get some real time data flows. Currently, I again disconnected the battery for about an hour this time. Reconnected and then tried starting again. Starts then dies, not a big surprise.

Checked the CEL codes as the O2 Sensor and EVAP were cleared and the codes it threw were as follows.

P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction

All signs are leading to the bad MAF sensor. I have a new one coming in on Monday.

I will pull the throttle body and completely clean it over the weekend so the MAF is ready to install Monday and see how it goes.

Again, thanks for all of the input and assistance. I will let you guys know what I find. Also, I will check the air flow and fuel trim and post the results. Not sure I can do that with my code scanner, but I will find out.
Dude to me sounds like u blew out one of you cats I recomend u removing your y pipe and check for any loose particles
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lexguy300, I don't have cats coming off the headers. I replaced them with Megan Racing headers and they are straight. No bulges what-so-ever so I don't think there are any particles in the Y-pipe. When I bought the car the headers were clogged (which is why I bought the car so cheap, Lexus wants $1800 to replace them) so I replaced them to take care of it. I have a dual band simulator I will be putting on the O2 Sensors to take care of those codes.
 

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So the MAF sensor comes in tomorrow. I will post my results as to whether or not that fixes the issue and the car is back up and running. I sure hope so as we are going to be getting some harder weather in my area this week and I don't want to be driving my 2000 Civic Si in that crappy weather.
 

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The new MAF sensor did it. My Lex is back up and running better than ever. Don't want to speak too soon, but I will drive it normally for a little while and program the ECU and let you know if anything else happens. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
 

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Just an update on the status of the car after 2 weeks. The car is running great. No more power loss anywhere and no more hesitation when pressing the gas. Found that guy with the Acura CL again and blew his fricking doors off. Smiled all the way home after that.
 

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thats good news. glad it worked for you. what brand maf did you get. maybe a squirt of electronic cleaner once a year would help avoid the maf caking up again
 

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This nearly exact scenario just happened to me too. Thank goodness I wasn't the first. In my case, a piece of grey fuzz somehow wedged itself in the MAF, and after it was removed, the car continued running like a champ.
 

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So I have some issues with my 2002 IS300 with 145,000 miles on it.

Sitting at a stop light I decide I am going to race the little Acura CL next to me that thinks his car is sweet. I hit the gas and get the car up to 4,000 RPMs and I lose all power and then the engine "lunges" and dies completely. All the idiot lights on the dash come on and I am dead on the road. So I pull over and park the car. I turn the key off and go to start it back up to see if it simply would restart. The engine cranks and starts but then immediately dies.

So, I read information from this forum as well as ClubLexus and see people talking about their fuel pump cutting out and hitting it with a hammer to correct it. So my brother comes to help and bangs on the fuel pump with a mallet as I am cranking over the car. The same occurs, the engine starts but immediately dies.

We start checking fuses. Swapping the ECR with the horn to make sure the relay isn't bad. Same outcome. So I start thinking a little further and come to the conclusion that the car is getting enough gas to start, but something is not allowing either fuel to continue to pump or air to be pulled into the engine.

I pull the plug on the MAF sensor and sure enough the car starts and idles. Of course, with the MAF sensor disconnected the TRAC OFF light flashes at me but the car will drive. So, I get the car home and today pull the MAF sensor out to clean it. It was very, very dirty. I was able to get the Red needle back to a dark red color, however, the wires in the MAF tube were caked with crap. I don't dare touch them as they are very, very brittle. I clean them both with Residue Free Electronics cleaner. I place the MAF sensor back in the car, disconnect the battery, pump the brakes ten time, wait ten minutes, pump the brakes again ten times and then reconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

I start the car and it immediately dies after firing up. At this point I have ordered a new Denso MAF Sensor from Rock Auto. It will be here Friday, but I am unsure as to what else could possibly be the issue besides the Fuel Pump not continuing to pump after start up.

I can tell you the guy I bought it from clearly did NO MAINTENANCE WHAT-SO-EVER on the car. It is a 2002 Lexus IS300 with 145,000 miles. I changed the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Accessory Belt at 144,000. The car has the CEL on, but it is for the O2 Sensors and a EVAP leak. No other codes are being thrown talking about air to fuel or anything else that I can see would cause the issue.

You guys are some of the most knowledgeable I know when it comes to these cars. Does anyone have any suggestions or things I could try to see what is going on. I am tired of listening
to the wife say "You bought a Lemon."

Thanks in advance.

Also, I test resistance on the MAF Sensor and found it to be bad, this is my justification for replacing it.
My 2002 IS300 is having the same issues any advice please. The car die yesterday and now star and die right after. Text me any advise if possible @7073843855
 

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So I have some issues with my 2002 IS300 with 145,000 miles on it.

Sitting at a stop light I decide I am going to race the little Acura CL next to me that thinks his car is sweet. I hit the gas and get the car up to 4,000 RPMs and I lose all power and then the engine "lunges" and dies completely. All the idiot lights on the dash come on and I am dead on the road. So I pull over and park the car. I turn the key off and go to start it back up to see if it simply would restart. The engine cranks and starts but then immediately dies.

So, I read information from this forum as well as ClubLexus and see people talking about their fuel pump cutting out and hitting it with a hammer to correct it. So my brother comes to help and bangs on the fuel pump with a mallet as I am cranking over the car. The same occurs, the engine starts but immediately dies.

We start checking fuses. Swapping the ECR with the horn to make sure the relay isn't bad. Same outcome. So I start thinking a little further and come to the conclusion that the car is getting enough gas to start, but something is not allowing either fuel to continue to pump or air to be pulled into the engine.

I pull the plug on the MAF sensor and sure enough the car starts and idles. Of course, with the MAF sensor disconnected the TRAC OFF light flashes at me but the car will drive. So, I get the car home and today pull the MAF sensor out to clean it. It was very, very dirty. I was able to get the Red needle back to a dark red color, however, the wires in the MAF tube were caked with crap. I don't dare touch them as they are very, very brittle. I clean them both with Residue Free Electronics cleaner. I place the MAF sensor back in the car, disconnect the battery, pump the brakes ten time, wait ten minutes, pump the brakes again ten times and then reconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

I start the car and it immediately dies after firing up. At this point I have ordered a new Denso MAF Sensor from Rock Auto. It will be here Friday, but I am unsure as to what else could possibly be the issue besides the Fuel Pump not continuing to pump after start up.

I can tell you the guy I bought it from clearly did NO MAINTENANCE WHAT-SO-EVER on the car. It is a 2002 Lexus IS300 with 145,000 miles. I changed the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Accessory Belt at 144,000. The car has the CEL on, but it is for the O2 Sensors and a EVAP leak. No other codes are being thrown talking about air to fuel or anything else that I can see would cause the issue.

You guys are some of the most knowledgeable I know when it comes to these cars. Does anyone have any suggestions or things I could try to see what is going on. I am tired of listening
to the wife say "You bought a Lemon."

Thanks in advance.

Also, I test resistance on the MAF Sensor and found it to be bad, this is my justification for replacing it.
So the MAF sensor comes in tomorrow. I will post my results as to whether or not that fixes the issue and the car is back up and running. I sure hope so as we are going to be getting some harder weather in my area this week and I don't want to be driving my 2000 Civic Si in that crappy weather.
My 2002 IS300 is dying right after staring and don't stay running can someone tell me what to do please. Thank you.
 
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