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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I am still having this problem. This has been bugging me for a long time now, I am honestly having a headache with this car. My wife and I are having our first child upcoming september. My vehicle is a 2001 Lexus Is300 with 170,012 miles.

What happened: I was on my way to work about a month ago in the morning, as a I turned a corner my vehicle died on me while I was driving. I coasted into the Ruby Tuesdays parking lot and tried to crank my car. It will turn over but won't start. My first instinct was to check the timing, spark, and fuel. I took off my intake pipe and sprayed some brake cleaner I had in my trunk, I sprayed some in there and tried cranking it wouldn't budge so my first instinct was to change the fuel pump. So I called the towing company and had it towed to my house.

I replaced the fuel pump with a 255 walboro pump. I put everything back together properly ( I am mechanically inclined, I work at a oil change shop) I tried cranking. still the same problem. I checked the spark and I had spark, I have a ignition tester that lights up when you turn it over so that test passed. I Put my key in the ignition and the security light goes off so I know the immobilizer is functioning properly. My timing is right on, Both intake and exhaust cams are correct, crank shaft is on 0. I have no idea why my vehicle isn't working at all.


Can someone please help me out? I honestly don't want to get rid of it. I fell in love with this car when I was 13 years old, I am now 23 and I have my dream car.

It's gonna be hard saving up money and trying to repair this car when I have a baby on the way...

Thank you and god bless all.
 

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Do the rpms jump when you crank? If not, then it could be the igniter/cps.
Wiggle the wires for the cps as you crank.

check fuses...every single one.

Also Have you checked for codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No codes are on. When I plugged in the obd2 scanner it said no codes could be found. So I am really bummed about this.

I will check if The RPMS jump up that's my next try. thank you
 

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Have you tried swapping the main relays and fuses? EFI etc?
Seems like there is a fuel safety shut off? Connections at fuel pump ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I have tried switching both relays yes, That did not work. The connections on the ECU are all clipped in correctly. I put everything back together properly with a 10mm 12mm 14mm when I cleaned the throttle body off and replaced my own exhaust valve cover gasket. I made sure everything was torqued down with my torque wrench. Nothing overtighted or undertighted. I cleaned all the connections (May I remind you that the person who had this vehicle before me broke EVERY single connector; The Throttle Position Sensor, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, Throttle Control Monitor Connector, Igniter Connector DH61, 2/3 coil pack connectors for the spark plugs.) that were covered in sludge gunk with brake cleaner. It's a mess man, I paid 6k for this though. I still thought I got a good deal on the car. I
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The RPMS do NOT jump at all so Its an Ignition/CPS problem?

Now That narrows It down. Which Would happene while I was driving?
 

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The RPMS do NOT jump at all so Its an Ignition/CPS problem?

Now That narrows It down. Which Would happene while I was driving?
It could definitely be the CPS. This was a big issue on 7MGTEs. The CPS wires would get brittle and crack, dying at the worst possible moments. Check the wiring for it, wiggle every wire related to it while someone cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My best friend has a 76 Celica with a 7mgte, with a W58 transmission. I will check that out right now. How much would a new one cost? I have cleaned all of the connections I'll try to wiggle it also. thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No luck, I cleaned it off with brake cleaner, wiggled while My wife tried cranking. I'll just buy one.

Do I have to remove the alternator to do this job?
 

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Have you confirmed that the fuel pump is actually pumping fuel?

You should not be buying parts to diagnose a problem, each component has a procedure to test, whether it's on car or a bench test. At this rate you'd be better off having it towed to a mechanic.

I just helped out a buddy with a similar problem with his nissan, turned out to be the fuel pump fuse, Alt fuse, crappy battery, and bad battery connections. Had it running in 20min.

oh and I don't think you should be spraying your electrical connections with brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is a no no on plastic, maybe that's why they are all broken lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well I bought a crankshaft position sesnor from autozone, its a toyota part. I put it on, I took the serpentine belt off, took the alternator off, took all the connectors off. took the 10mm crankshaft position sensor bolt out, saw it was covered in dirty sludge oil. cleaned everything up around that area, made sure no metal stuff got on the cps at all, put everything back together. took about 2 hours to do. I tried cranking still nothing

I am losing my mind on this car.
 

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Pull a spark plug wire as you crank as well, make sure the brake cleaner is all gone, though. I had a similar experience with my 7mgte where a wire from the igniter kept touching metal and blowing a fuse. Triple check it all
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I saw a fuse blown on the passenger side thats a 7.5A IGN. There is also a wire going directly into the fuse socket. I replaced it with a new 7.5A still no luck.
 

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I saw a fuse blown on the passenger side thats a 7.5A IGN. There is also a wire going directly into the fuse socket. I replaced it with a new 7.5A still no luck.
Trace the wire. I'm sure IGNITION is important in starting the car.

sidenote: are there any aftermarket parts on the car, such as a stereo, piggy back computer, etc etc? They could be malfunctioning, screwing up your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Trace the wire. I'm sure IGNITION is important in starting the car.

sidenote: are there any aftermarket parts on the car, such as a stereo, piggy back computer, etc etc? They could be malfunctioning, screwing up your car.
I will trace it once I get off work today, my buddies say that someone that had it before me rigged a lot of stuff up, so I have to redo most of their work.

The only aftermarket thing I have is the 255 Walboro Fuel Pump that I installed myself. Nothing else, No aftermarket radio, no piggy back computer, No Aftermarket glowy lights or w/e.

yeah, it's gotta be something with ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As I think of it now, The person before me had Subs and an amp. If my guess is right, one of the wires must of hit when I turned so I may have a ground issue. But the 7.5A IGN fuse was blown so that narrows it down. Wires in the Trunk: (The Gauge wires, Ground Wire, Red And Black connectors for the amp, and a blue wire for the remote.)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I fixed the problem!

The wire I traced led to the remote wire that they left along with all the sub hook ups still hooked up. That was a hazard waiting to happen. They didn't disconnect anything when they removed the system. I guess when I was turning the loose tools I have in my trunk somehow grounded out that wire and caused my car to shut off while I was driving. I Replaced the fuse and tried it still didn't start. Used my Battery Box, Charged up the battery for about 45 mins slow charge. Started right up!

Remember That was the PASSENGER side fuse box. Someone told me their was only 2 fuse boxes; one under the hood, and one on the driver front panel. I never knew about a THIRD fuse box on the passenger side panel.

Thank god this problem is solved, I honestly appreciate the help that you guys did for me, now I can drive to work. God Bless all.
 
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