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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
Sorry that it's been a while since my last update. The new job has most of my attention :)

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I'm still waiting on the exhaust manifold from XS power (3+ months later...)

I've decided to stop waiting around and try to make "what I have" work.

I just purchased a 1/2 inch turbo flange spacer and a huge 3 inch 45 degree coupler for the intake.

I'm hoping that I can properly clock my turbo if it's just raised a little bit.

This would obviously make the intercooler piping bump into the turbo even worse than before, so I got the uber long coupler in hopes of going "around" the turbo

(I am hoping it will look something like this sketchy MS Paint drawing)
137479

The turbo would be going "up" (red) and the IC piping would have to loop around more (yellow)

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Honestly, if I can get this to fit, then I just have to

A) Hook up WG, BOV, and Boost Gauge lines
B) Connect Oil feed & return. Prime turbo
C) Reinstall MAF
D) Tighten down IC tubing & couplers
E) Fill coolant and bleed brake system
F) Re-attach stock hoses, clips, and bolts

What am I missing? Think this'll work?

I hope I'm on the home stretch.

Also, is driving to an exhaust place with just a downpipe really sketchy? I was hoping not to have to tow it.
 

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Nah I mean it’ll work but will the hood close? And you’re going to need to alter your oil drain possibly and also the downpipe since you’re moving everything 0.5” with that spacer. Then when the correct manifold arrives you may have to change it all again.

I’d drive open downpipe NFG it will be loud but won’t hurt a thing.
 

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Man I’d try to get that feed closer to 12oclock as possible. It may work as is though, just have to try it. See the seals on a turbo, they’re not rubber oil seals like on a crank or an axle that actually retain the oil. Turbo seals are more like piston rings, so they do keep oil from getting through but if there is any resistance to the flow of oil (kinked drain, high crankcase pressure, too steep of angle the turbo is clocked to) then oil will get past the seal and you’ll burn oil. So, next time you hear somebody say the turbo has “blown seals” , remember they’re full of it. You can’t “blow” them. They either got a oil return flow restriction or the turbo shaft has ate into the housing/seal and created a oil passage.

Looks like everything came together for you. I was for sure the hood wouldn’t close.
 

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Well I can’t say that you’re not trying to make it work lol. Look at you go. Please don’t take this the wrong way, but all things considered I know you’re SUPER excited to have some boost in your life rn! You are definitely trying to make it that last bit of the way and that’s great!

However, just to bring up a few things Kris already has, that turbo drain and feed should work but it isn’t “ideal.” It’s not the end of the world and you will be the first to know if the turbo leaks oil or not. So that’s something that could go either way. I, for one, sure hope it works for you after all the work you have done. Secondly, I hope your Downpipe clears the body/firewall now that you have raised the turbo up 1/2”. If not then it will need to be modified ONLY to be reverted back to how it was when the correct manifold comes in.

Basically we are saying that we hate to see all the work you do go to waste when you have to undo it all to put the correct manifold on. Unless you plan on not installing the correct manifold in that case I will tuck my tail between my legs now and shut up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Yes I totally agree with both of you. I just can't stand to see my car sit on jack stands for a month straight :p

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My plan is to get the car as close as possible with my current turbo & manifold.
I can at least plug up all my vacuum and boost hoses and clamp down my IC piping. I also have to top off my coolant and bleed my brake lines.

Then, I will get a new turbo once the replacement manifold finally comes in and solve the downpipe and exhaust once and for all.

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You're right, it's a lot of "putting on and taking off" and redoing stuff. However getting it pushed as far forward as possible feels like progress while I wait.

A wise man once said, "Yeah man every little thing you can do to make the actual turbo install as easy as possible."
137497


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My XS turbo is not twin scroll, but my exhaust manifold is. is that a problem? I suppose it'll still work (if it can even spool the damn thing),

I ordered that 3" blue coupler and they shipped me a 2" black coupler by mistake :(

Gotta wait 3 days for that. Bummer. The weather this weekend is great.
 

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A wise man once said, "Yeah man every little thing you can do to make the actual turbo install as easy as possible."

Lmao, damn Kris! You told this man to shoot for the moon. 😉
Thanks guys. Glad I could be a bit of inspiration. It’s pretty daunting when you first get started wrenching. Haha I dunno about a wise man ...more like the voice of 20/20 hindsight. Little bit of buy once - cry once sprinkled in there. Finish with a dash of: Fast, Cheap, Reliable - Pick two.

Im as ready as @Brucey B to see this thing run. Here’s another little saying: Nothing good happens fast. Take the time Amazon gave you to go over everything and make sure the bolts are tight and everything lines up, oil lines away from exhaust mania, etc.

The weather’s been great here in Oklahoma - it’s the part of the year where we go from winter cold to summerFlorida heat/humidity. Means tornado season is nigh. My car is loving the low intake temps they are almost the same as ambient. Pulls like a freight train. Crazy how big of a difference it makes but it’s huge noticeable on a turbo car.


XS turbo is not twin scroll, but my exhaust manifold is. is that a problem?
Not an issue at all. You just won’t get the benefit of grouping the similar exhaust pulses together. If it was twinscroll mani and turbine, it would spool just a bit quicker.
 

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If you still have the metal air line that runs through the timing belt cover. You could tee it closer to the intake and run one side to the metal cover line. Then to the blow off valve. Then take the otherside that is cloe to the intake and run it through the firewall to the gauge cluster area.
 

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^+1

that is a long ass line you got there. Will take a little time for the BOV to even realize the throttle has been shut lol. Use that metal line that is behind the timing cover like Solar said for the BOV and TEE the boost gauge off just before that metal line back into the cabin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
I've got everything dry fitted up well. Only a few outstanding issues/questions.

Here's a 5 minute summary/question video for anybody interested:


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(Keep in mind that my current turbo is way too big and I'll be swapping my turbo before I address my downpipe & exhaust)

QUESTIONS/CONCERNS :
(I'll research on my own, but feel free to comment if you want to provide a quick answer - THX)

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Bolts for turbo: Are M8 bolts and nuts okay for the turbo flange, or do I need to get larger bolts that actually thread in?

Also, how do I get that 4th bolt in?!

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Hose & Clip near p/s headlight : Does anybody know what those are? Where do they hook up/

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Brake Fluid: Do I need to bleed all 4 wheels?

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Coolant: Where do I pour it in, and is it as simple as topping off a reservoir, or is there more to it?

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Air filter piping: Do I need the long 4-inch diameter aluminum pipe, or can I run the air filter straight on the turbo? What are those bungs for on the aluminum pipe?

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Bumper: It doesn't seem to want to fit on exactly. Any ideas where it might not have clearance?
 

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QUESTIONS/CONCERNS :

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Bolts for turbo:
I would find the correct bolt size and run either a lock washer under the bolt head or use a flat washer under the bolt head with high temp anti-seize. Sounds weird but when torqued down it works great and you won’t have to fight it later taking it off.

As far as that 4th bolt, you can try unbolting the other 3 bolts and rotating the turbo around to fish that back bolt in first and then feed in the others afterwards?

Hose & Clip near p/s headlight :

That hose went to the stock PURGE solenoid valve on the side of the airbox along with that connector. If you live in California and smog will be an issue (aside from there being a big turbo now strapped to the side of the engine) You will need to put the EVAP solenoid back and hook that hose back up. Then the bottom of that solenoid would then be routed back into the intake tube (THE 4” pre turbo intake hose that has the nipple/port on it)
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Brake Fluid:
Absolutely bleed all 4 wheels!
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Coolant:
Just fill up the radiator like you normally would and then top off the overflow.

Air filter piping: If you see above (PS clip and hose section) those bungs can be used for the EVAP purge solenoid bottom hose port. It would also be for the PCV hose or catch can vent.
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Bumper:
Unfortunately this you’re gonna have to figure out bud.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 · (Edited)
BIG DECISION // SPENDING SOME MONEY:

I've decided to buy the replacement borg warner turbo and a greddy rs cat back exhaust (may have to wait as it could be on backorder -- the sooner I order it, the better.).

This turbo you linked is actually just in my price range. I want to stay sub-$600 for the turbo.


Is a .91 ar too big to spool fast?

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What I'm looking for in a turbo is:

  1. below $600.
  2. smaller so I can get a better fit in my engine bay
  3. Comes with v-band to match my downpipe (3" v band)
  4. oil feed only (i don't want to deal with the complexity of extra lines)
  5. faster spool for better powerband
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
that borg turbo from my previous post got backordered, so i got a s300 instead off amazon. I like it!

It fits much better, but the hot side of the turbo is really close and will probably block the intake tubing from connecting to the throttlebody

137749


Do I maybe need to get a custom piece of aluminum to go around the turbo? Will it get too hot regardless?

Also gotta drill and tap the boost nipple on the turbo itself. 1/8 NPT I surmise...

Also a new oil feed fitting. This turbo has it threaded directly inside vs the old one's sandwich plate.

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It's problem after problem but I'm determined to get across the finish line :)
 

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Also gotta drill and tap the boost nipple on the turbo itself. 1/8 NPT I surmise
Yep 1/8npt for the boost nipple.


turbo has it threaded directly inside vs the old one's sandwich plate.
I think it has an internal flow restrictor as well. So don’t use an old feed line with a restrictor. Verify that, of course.

I’m not sure on the cold pipe - to - throttle body issue. I think that manifold is still causing your problems here.
 
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