Lexus IS Forum banner

101 - 120 of 161 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Worked stalled due to annoying (and beautiful) ice. I'm taking this time to make some decisions, but some small things, and get ready for the last big push.

View attachment 137206

Below are some outstanding issues or decisions. Feel free to give advice on any or all of them :)

EXHAUST:
  • I decided I'm going to get 3" custom exhaust from the downpipe to the muffler.
  • I'm not sure which muffler or muffler&resonator combo to go with. (Would prefer a deeper exhaust note that is relatively quiet at idle)
  • Not sure how I can pass VA inspection without any cats on my car though...
I have a full HKS Hi Power that's been modifed all at way to the canister for a full 3 inch. At idle it's decent, not to loud but has a deep tone. If you want something quiet, I would suggest adding a resonator but that does add restriction to the exhaust flow. I suggest buying a canister and have a shop do a custom 3inch from the downpipe back. That way, you can add in a high flow cat and a resonator if you want.


WASTEGATE:

  • I'm not 100% sure how to connect the hose on the WG.
  • Do I leave the top 2 areas (red circles) open to atmosphere and connect the port on the side (green circle) to the boost port on the turbo?
  • Also I wonder if I should bolt the wastegate to the exhaust manifold BEFORE I install the exhaust manifold or AFTER. (I suppose I can just figure that one out)
View attachment 137208

The small hole at the top should have an bolt that is an Allen wrench style that blocks that off. Check the stuff that comes with your turbo kit, should be in there. The bigger bolt at the top is meant for a electronic boost control or multiple port controller to add pressure to the diagram if you want to go above spring rate boost. If you aren't using a electronic one or multiple port, VTA. Manual boost controllers usually connect to the lower green portion to control the pressure from the turbo to the wastegate to increase boost. I may not be 100% correct here because I have a 44mm Tial wastegate but assuming all wastegates works the same way.



O2 SENSORS:

  • It seems like I won't have enough bungs to install all of my o2 sensors AND my wideband
  • I pulled 3 o2 sensors out of my stock headers. The new turbo downpipe only has 3 bungs. It seems like I'd need 4 bungs to add the 3 o2 sensors back AND my wideband (3+1)
  • I'm not sure how to handle that. Install another bung on the downpipe? Can I just leave an o2 sensor unbolted?
When you go turbo, most likely you aren't going to use B2S2 (Bank 2 Sensor 2) or B1S2 sensors anymore (secondary sensors). You are going to retain the B1S1 Sensor in the first bung and I'm not either sure about the B2S1 but you can probably use the 2nd bung for that. The lowest O2 bung on the downpipe is for your wideband sensor.

INTERCOOLER PIPING:

I have the CX intercooler kit. It looks like I'll have to do some cutting. (behind p/s headlight //// intercooler bracket //// MAYBE by the d/s fender.)

I've seen people drill a hole behind the passenger headlight to run the piping through there. I personally had the IC piping ran next to the wall then angle out so I didn't have to drill.

OIL FEED:

The turbo kit did not come with a proper oil feed fitting for the top of the turbo. Had to order one off amazon (12 bucks)

OIL RETURN:
The fitting on the turbo looks like it's going to be VERY close to the exhaust manifold. It's a high temp rubber hose. I'm worried about it burning up against the manifold.

Get a high quality and high temp stainless steel one....rubber one is sketchy running that close, cold melt. Replace the cheap stuff now before it cause you tons of problem later.

GAUGES:

I purchased an AEM Wideband & Boost gauge. About $200.
Plan on installing in the cubby above the radio where the NAV goes.
When I need to get power to the gauges, do I just tap into the power wire to my cigarette lighter or something? Is there an easier way to get power?

You can wire it to your ignition for power when you turn the car on or wire it to your radio power. Either way is acceptable.




------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--- Hopefully the snow will melt soon. I'm off all next week (between jobs) :cool: ---
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Worked stalled due to annoying (and beautiful) ice. I'm taking this time to make some decisions, but some small things, and get ready for the last big push.

View attachment 137206
Wow i got stuck on this photo, it rains a lot here but not much snow (only down the south island really). Ive never seen ice form like that though! :oops:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
So I'm still struggling with exhaust options.

Part of me wants to do custom 3" setup, but I'm worried about it being obnoxiously loud.
I would probably want a high flow cat, a resonator, and a muffler (probably greddy RS), but I'm worried the labor for a multi-piece system might be really high and it might still be too loud.

The other part of me thinks I should just do a 2.5" cat back system (like the Tanabe Touring Medalion) and get CX racing midpipe to connect from the downpipe to the cat-back exhaust. I worry that it might restrict my power and that it all might not fit right considering it's an XS manifold, XS downpipe, CX Racing midpipe, and a Sportcross wagon on top of that.

--

Any further advice on the exhaust setup? Should I run some sort of 3" custom, or is a 2.5 catback a good idea because it'll be quieter, easily revertible to stock NA, and cheaper if it all bolts up properly?

-----

Ultimately, I'm torn between a 3" custom vs a 2.5" cat back system

(big install day tomorrow)
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,946 Posts
3" will work with a good muffler system. Remember the turbo will knock the sound down also. I would look at the Greddy Supreme SP system. Or do something custom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
If you are really worried about the sound.....run a 2 inch exhaust but with a cutout. Meaning the cutout won't open up until you go WOT. It keeps the car quiet during normal driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
As I mentioned above. I will be running a Greddy SP elite. Turbo will cut down noise as they are just spinning mufflers. A resonator and a muffler added will not be loud at all.
Yeah i'm leaning that way now. Do you think having a high flow cat, resonator, and muffler would be expensive at an exhaust shop as opposed to just a pipe and a muffler?
 

·
Registered
2002 Lexus IS300
Joined
·
1,373 Posts
Yeah i'm leaning that way now. Do you think having a high flow cat, resonator, and muffler would be expensive at an exhaust shop as opposed to just a pipe and a muffler?
Do you mean having one made? The thing that is going to cost money is you buying all three things separately and then bringing it to them to make you a system. It might be cheaper to just buy a cat back system that will already have a resonator and muffler and all that piping done.

All you would need at that point is to buy a high flow cat and have a small section of pipe made from the down pipe to the cat back system. They will just put the cat into that small section.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
I’m kinda late to the exhaust discussion but, mine is 3” all the way back with a vibrant resonater and a borla muffler. It’s a throaty/burble like a V8 at idle. Kinda drones at highway cruise but not terrible. The screamer pipe sounds like absolute shite to me. I hate it. Some folks like them but it is not my jam. I need to get the wastegate recirced. I had a little muffler on it but it would cause boost creep and I’d hit boost cut at wot, so the muffler had to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #112
137231


Nice progress today. Issues are:

1) cant turn the turbo clockwise to have the feed sit at 2 o'clock and the drain sit at 8 o'clock

2) turbo is in the way of the intercooler piping

3) abs has like ZERO clearance from the turbo. Theres a lot of room behind the headlight. I wonder if I can relocate there instead of the battery area


Will follow up on exhaust convo when I get there <3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
1. Why can’t you clock it? Like it won’t physically turn, or there’s something in the way blocking it from turning? Should be four bolts and a couple clamps connecting the turbine to the center housing. And 8 bolts and four clamps for center to compressor. Loosen them and it will spin. It’s way tighter in the IS bay vs a Supra. So you have to get creative and will be installing it one piece at a time. Manifold. Then turbine house. Then center house. You will have bloody knuckles.

2. I see that. The turbine is usually what’s hitting the maf/bov charge pipe, not the compressor. How big is that turbo? The compressor looks as big my Borg. Are you sure they sent the right IS-specific manifold? Where did you cut the hole for the charge pipe to pass thru? May need to relocate it?

3. Overall, it looks good dude. Thing is, with the XS power kit, I am pretty sure you have to move the abs module. The CX kit lets you leave it, but I moved it because of the proximity of the brake lines and the hot parts. I bought the Finishing Lines kit, and it’s nice, but I wished I’d just tried my hand at flairing and extending the lines. I’ve heard of guys moving the abs module forward to free up some room and just straightening the stock lines and getting it to fit. Then just heat wrapping the brake lines near the hot parts.

I am ready for the cold to vortex it’s ass back to the Pole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
View attachment 137231

Nice progress today. Issues are:

1) cant turn the turbo clockwise to have the feed sit at 2 o'clock and the drain sit at 8 o'clock

2) turbo is in the way of the intercooler piping

3) abs has like ZERO clearance from the turbo. Theres a lot of room behind the headlight. I wonder if I can relocate there instead of the battery area


Will follow up on exhaust convo when I get there <3
Nice but welcome to the world of turbo where everything doesn't fit exactly as you want. Modification are always needed. For the issue with turbo being in the way of the intercooler....maybe a cheap fix for that is to get a longer coupler so you can move the piping a little farther towards the wheel well. Check the coupler on the bottom that is fitting onto the intercooler core and see if it's interchangable. That coupler looks longer. Secondly, if you are going to relocate the ABS....best place is the battery because you won't have the heat from the turbo heating up those lines :). You could relocate it farther towards the headlight but if you are going to relocate already, might as well do it in a place that makes more sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
wow that ice melted fast, looked pretty thick like it was there to stay for a while!
 

·
Registered
2002 Lexus IS300
Joined
·
1,373 Posts
I think that manifold is not designed to have the abs unit there. You gotta move it unfortunately. Also it really does look like that is either wrong manifold or that turbo is really big. It shouldn’t be sitting that high to where it’s interfering with the charge pipe up top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #117
The idea of paying hundreds of dollars for a brake line kit seems ridiculous to me.

I almost cut and flared and installed new lines, but I just decided to bend the existing wires. It turned out pretty damn well!

137233


137234


I'm going to try cleaning up the wires near where the downpipe will be and or add a heat shield
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
idea of paying hundreds of dollars for a brake line kit seems ridiculous to me.

Yeah, I hear you. Believe me, I am all about diy but at that point, my time was worth more than my money. I think would learn to flare the lines were I to do it again. It’s good to learn new skills.

Will your downpipe fit? You may end up having to cut that downward and upward bend out of the brake lines, and make it straight shot to the abs block. It gets busy with the heater core hoses, brake lines, and downpipe there. I’ve got my wastegate there too, the way the gte manifold has it positioned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #119
So today I relocated the abs and got my gauges 80% done.


If you watch the video you will see that the compressor housing is bumping into the exhaust manifold and also doesn't have enough clearance to put the coupler on the boost pipe.

Xs power was supposed to get me a replacement exhaust manifold in 7-10 days, but now it has been a month and they still say it's "in production" (grrr)

I'm torn between waiting for this replacement manifold or just working with what I have..


I'm worried the downpipe won't fit either. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

137235
137236
137237

137238
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #120
Nice but welcome to the world of turbo where everything doesn't fit exactly as you want. Modification are always needed. For the issue with turbo being in the way of the intercooler....maybe a cheap fix for that is to get a longer coupler so you can move the piping a little farther towards the wheel well. Check the coupler on the bottom that is fitting onto the intercooler core and see if it's interchangable. That coupler looks longer. Secondly, if you are going to relocate the ABS....best place is the battery because you won't have the heat from the turbo heating up those lines :). You could relocate it farther towards the headlight but if you are going to relocate already, might as well do it in a place that makes more sense.
Thanks for the feedback. I did try to use that coupler, but it's actually a 3 inch -> 2.5 inch coupler. (I need 3 inch -> 3 inch for the intake)

Will just get a larger coupler and make due for now :)
 
101 - 120 of 161 Posts
Top