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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everybody,

My name is Bruce -- new to the forum. This is my 1st turbo build, so I'm a bit inexperienced.

I have an 04 IS300 Sportcross wagon with 117k miles.
IS350 wheels
Megan coilovers
Rav 4 roof rack mod
(nothing else -- bone stock)

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I love my car, but it's only making ~200hp and that's not enough for me.
I've decided to turbocharge it.
I'll be posting all about my build as I complete it. (Goals, plans, purchases, links, reviews, installs, progress, troubles, etc.)

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THE GOAL:

Ultimately, I want to build a 4 door supra wagon :giggle:

I want to build a reliable, budget-friendly, daily driver that makes 350-400 HP. (With some upside if I crave more boost)

I want to build it for under $3000 all in. This budget is fairly low, but I think it's quite doable!


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THE BUILD:

PART
COST​
*XS Power 2JZ-GE IS300 Turbo Kit$1200
*AEM FIC6 w/ Boomslang Harness$350
Aeromotive Stealth 310 Fuel Pump$120
*Ebay Fuel Pressure Regulator (+fuel return mod) $150
Tanabe Medalion Touring Exhaust$500
DeatschWerks 550CC Fuel Inejectors(I'll get them later)$400
$2320


*The XS power kit was the obvious choice based on my budget. I don't see a SIGNIFICANT ENOUGH difference between CX Racing's kit and XS Power's kit to justify the difference $$.

*I scored an awesome deal with a used FIC & Boomslang combo with a private seller!

*I decided to with the Ebay FPR because I've seen reviews that it's largely reliable. The aeromotive a1000 was a lot more expensive, and it didn't include any of the AN fittings, lines, or gauge. The Ebay FPR seems like a much better value
(as long as it regulates pressure and doesn't leak)


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THE PLAN:

At first, I was going to just slap the turbo kit on the car and "figure it out from there" (but this is not a good plan!!)

I've realized that it makes much more sense to build it in this order:
(This plan will limit the IS's downtime)

1) FPR, fuel return mod, fuel pump

2) Install ECU on naturally aspirated car.
(Troubleshoot any potential CEL's, O2 issues, and get familiar with tuning software)

3) Once fuel and ECU are ready, install the turbo kit.

4) Exhaust Install

5) Tune car with stock injectors. Upgrade to Deatschwerks injectors when I want to increase power.


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WHAT'S NEXT?:

I've ordered the majority of these parts. Just waiting on shipping.

I'll post another update when I receive some parts and start the FPR/Fuel Return/Fuel Pump mods.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

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Feel free to post any advice/thoughts/warnings you may have. This is my 1st build, so I could use the input & encouragement :p
 

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Yeah man that’s a good plan of attack there. I think your order of operations is good. My advice: slip that oil return drilling in there somewhere, like between step 1-2 or 2-3. You can get the hole drilled and tapped and then put a pipe plug in it to block it off until you get the turbo and drain installed.

I don’t know what kind of oil drain set up the XS kit has, but I would advise a steel braid covered AN10 or AN12. Buy the flange/ends/hose/whatever and make a new line if the XS looks sketchy. The hard parts (mani, downpipe, etc) on the XS/CX kits are decent but the drain lines are on the cheap side and should be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I love your idea about tapping the oil return ahead of time. Will def. be doing that. I'll keep an eye on the hoses and fittings and such
 

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Yeah man every little thing you can do to make the actual turbo install as easy as possible. I posted on the 2JZ NA-T thread about drilling the drain hole. Just get the car on jack stands, loosen the motor mount -to- crossmember nuts almost all the way. Jack the front of the engine up, I used a notched 2x4 on the engine block and a floor jack. Drop the lower sump. The back four bolts are difficult but if you get a 1/4” swivel 10mm socket it’ll make it waaaay easier. Drill and tap the hole, clean up your oil sump getting all the old gasket off the mating surface and reseal it with Toyota FIPG. You’ve got about 5-10 minutes work time before the fipg sets, so get some of the front bolts in to hold the sump on and then drive them back bolts home, then finish up the rest of the front bolts. Search on YouTube for some oil pan reseal how to’s. This is a good example and will get you going.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That turbo kit doesn’t come with any intercooler piping I hope you know. Better factor that in.
Damn I saw a youtube review that says it comes with it, but when I read their website, I think you're right. Luckily the kit install itself is gonna be after the fuel&ecu. I have time. TY!
 

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When I was on the NA-T route, I originally bought the XS kit. At the time, it did come with an intercooler kit. It was actually the CX Racing intercooler kit. I don’t know what, or if, the XS comes with now. I’d call or email them to be sure. Having a pretty much bolt in IC kit makes for an easier install. It would sway me to purchase the CX kit to save the headache.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yeah man every little thing you can do to make the actual turbo install as easy as possible. I posted on the 2JZ NA-T thread about drilling the drain hole. Just get the car on jack stands, loosen the motor mount -to- crossmember nuts almost all the way. Jack the front of the engine up, I used a notched 2x4 on the engine block and a floor jack. Drop the lower sump. The back four bolts are difficult but if you get a 1/4” swivel 10mm socket it’ll make it waaaay easier. Drill and tap the hole, clean up your oil sump getting all the old gasket off the mating surface and reseal it with Toyota FIPG. You’ve got about 5-10 minutes work time before the fipg sets, so get some of the front bolts in to hold the sump on and then drive them back bolts home, then finish up the rest of the front bolts. Search on YouTube for some oil pan reseal how to’s. This is a good example and will get you going.
Thanks for the advice, but can't I just drill and tap this area for the oil return? Seems a hell of a lot easier and I can just do it from the top when I remove the exhaust manifold

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE:

I was able to get the fuel pump installed today. The Aeromotive 340 Stealth fit perfectly and the install took me ~2 hours.

I used heatshrink crimp connectors and had to run the wiring and clip outside of the housing because it wouldn't fit in the tophat.

Some basic pics:

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Mid Install ^^^(I just got the new pump in) Nearly done^^ just had to throw it in the car

Car started up just fine. Everything seems in order. Fuel pump = done.

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Some more turbo parts came in today, but with the XS Power China kit, the boxes slowly trickle in over a couple of weeks.
I currently have the turbo, downpipe, wastegate, and hardware. Still waiting on the IC and exhaust manifold.

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Fuel return mod & FPR fittings have all arrived. Just waiting on my ebay FPR (should be about 2 more days)



I'll shoot an update when the fuel return mod is done :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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Got everything I need for the FPR except a hose to connect the return to the siphon jet hose (still not really sure how that works..)

Not quite sure what size that hose will need to be to fit the jet siphon hose. my guess is I'll have to bring it to a hardware store, go 1 size big, and clamp it down.

Going to install tomorrow.. praying the fuel rail tap goes smooth..


You can drill that point for an oil return. However please make sure to take off the lower oil pan first. So that all the shavings don’t fall into the pan. I’m sure you already knew this.

NGL I was planning on rolling the dice and putting sticky oil on the drill and tap and a vacuum :p
 

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except a hose to connect the return to the siphon jet hose
Gates 27093 will work. It’s submersible rated fuel line. Anything not submersible rated is a gamble that could dissolve and leave you thinking you got access to more fuel than you really do.


still not really sure how that works..
The IS300 and most modern cars have a “saddle” style fuel tank. It’s one tank with two fuel chambers inside it. The fuel pump is in one chamber. The siphon pulls fuel from the other chamber, over to the fuel pump chamber. The siphon is driven by the fuel return flow. You can Google “siphon venturi” if you want to know how it works.


NGL I was planning on rolling the dice and putting sticky oil on the drill and tap and a vacuum
I don’t think it’s a good idea. Not saying it hasn’t been done but too risky imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I modified the fuel hanger, tapped the fuel rail, and hooked up the lines and mounted the FPR. Overall it went really well!

I'm waiting for the JB Weld to cure on the stock FPR and will be reinstalling the fuel pump and attaching the return line tomorrow!

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A solid days' work. Learned all about AN fittings too!
 

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Looks good man. Good to see it coming together...some advice:

1. I would power up the fuel pump and flush all that swarf out from tapping the rail. Like not start the car, just some 12v to the pump. That aluminum will clog your injectors for sure. The passages are very small in them. Actually, I would pull the rail and clean it but hey that’s me.

2. I can’t tell what (if anything) you used to seal the return bulkhead thru the fuel sender. If you don’t seal it, you’ll smell gas stink inside the car. It’s fun because, racecar but gets old quick.

3. You many have to trim the submerged hose/move the siphon valve. It gets tight with the float and extra hose in the tank. Just be ready to do some finagling.

Post up pics when you get it running!
 

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What was the thread size on the rail? 1/8” npt?
Also you’re wild dude. Pretty sure you need to drop the oil pan when you tap the hole and I would have pulled the rail before just drilling into it also. That is going to cause issues with all that crap. Not trying to hate but the potential for clogging up the injectors is very high.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks good man. Good to see it coming together...some advice:

1. I would power up the fuel pump and flush all that swarf out from tapping the rail. Like not start the car, just some 12v to the pump. That aluminum will clog your injectors for sure. The passages are very small in them. Actually, I would pull the rail and clean it but hey that’s me.

2. I can’t tell what (if anything) you used to seal the return bulkhead thru the fuel sender. If you don’t seal it, you’ll smell gas stink inside the car. It’s fun because, racecar

3. You many have to trim the submerged hose/move the siphon valve. It gets tight with the float and extra hose in the tank. Just be ready to do some finagling.

Post up pics when you get it running!
I put my mouth on the fuel pump hose and blew super hard. I have a video of it shooting fuel and shavings out. Pretty funny actually..

If any shavings break the injectors, I'll just have to upgrade sooner :p shame...
Hahaha

The bulkhead is threaded into the top hat of the plastic hanger. It should be sealed enough so it wont smell like gas. I installed it cockeyed on purpose btw :p

Ya I'm gonna fandangle the shit out of it . Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What was the thread size on the rail? 1/8” npt?
Also you’re wild dude. Pretty sure you need to drop the oil pan when you tap the hole and I would have pulled the rail before just drilling into it also. That is going to cause issues with all that crap. Not trying to hate but the potential for clogging up the injectors is very high.

1/8 npt and ya if my flush doesnt work I'll just have to upgrade :)
 

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Man you could potentially stick the injector open which will flood and hydro lock the engine. Or it could stick closed and cause lean out. Or you may have got all the swarf out? Just want you to be informed dude.

Do you know how to set your base fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Man you could potentially stick the injector open which will flood and hydro lock the engine. Or it could stick closed and cause lean out. Or you may have got all the swarf out? Just want you to be informed dude.

Do you know how to set your base fuel pressure?

I WANT yall to give me sound advice so dont feel like you're shitting on me for recommending safer methods. I appreciate it.

I'll flush out the fuel rail tomorrow.

As far as setting fuel pressure, I think i pinch off the vacuum hose and turn the top Allen till it reaches 45.
 
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