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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I may as well post my Auto to Manual swap information, and be available to those who need some guidance through the swap. I'll be able to answer questions on this Thread. I can't upload most of my swap photos because they're too big to upload.

SWAP EXTERIOR
Before unbolting anything I'd definitely recommend you put bolts, washers and nuts in labeled plastic baggies for each part you take off (You'll need some of them later and the sandwich baggies work).
1. Once lifted, unbolt all the undercover plastic. 10mm I think.
2. When you've finally unbolted all the plastic, move towards the rear and unbolt the driveshaft from the differential (I definitely needed PBlaster, a 14mm wrench and a hammer).
3. To slide the driveshaft off the Auto's output shaft you'll need to unbolt two 14mm bolts from about the middle of the driveshaft they're easy to spot and not tough to unbolt. After slide the driveshaft out.
4. Unbolt the crossmember for the Auto transmission 4, 14mm bolts hold it up.
5. There's a rubber cover on the engine, you'll need to remove this to be able to have visual of the 6-8 14mm bolts that hold the Torque Converter to the Auto Flywheel (You'll need to crank the engine slightly to get to each bolt).
6. The Auto transmission should lower after you unbolt the crossmember and you'll be able to have visual of the 8 bolts on the bellhousing. 4 17mm and 4 14mm The starter will dangle but it'll be okay.(Just make sure you have a floor jack/transmission jack to hold the transmission after you unbolt all of the bolts.
7. After lowering the Auto, you'll have visual of the Auto Flywheel, I believe it's 6-8 14mm bolts, unbolt this and be careful the flywheel spacers may come flying down at you.
8. Then install your preferred Flywheel, Clutch and Pressure Plate. Flywheel ARP 85lbs, Pressure Plate 19lbs
9. Install your preferred transmission with 1JZ/2JZ bellhousing and Shifter that'll fit through the OEM hole.
10. Install the crossmember that'll work with your transmission.
11. Install the driveshaft that'll work with your transmission and oem differential.
12. RE-BOLT!!!

Wiring
There are 4 Plugs that you unplug from the AUTO transmission. The one with 9 Plugs including 2 Big Red Rubber Grommets is the only one that needs to be messed with.
1. Cut and splice the two wires coming out of the Big Red Grommets and crimp them together. This will allow the starter to crank.
2. The two red wires coming out of the plug are your reverse lights. Connect them to the wires coming out of your transmission (if you have them lol).

SWAP INTERIOR
1. Find Bolts/Screws on the Center Console, Unbolt and Unscrew them until the middle console is able to lift out of place.
2. There's a few plugs you need to unplug (Most of them are one's you won't need to remember because they only plug into certain plugs).
3. There's 4 bolt/screws holding the Auto Shifter in place unbolt/unscrew them. Lift and unplug any plugs (I'd recommend zip tying them in an out of the way place).
4. Put the center console back into it's place.
5. Unbolt/unscrew the under DASH (Closest panel to your feet, where the OBD2 plug in is at).
6. You'll see a flange in the engine bay and a flange where the oem pedals are. Tear the film off the flange inside the car.
7. Drill 3 Holes according to your Master Cylinder and Clutch Pedal setup.
8. Install Master Cylinder and Clutch Pedal setup.

Reused
- Bolts to the differential
- Crossmember and bolts
- Bolts to the Bellhousing
- Brake Pedal (Cut to Manual Pedal specs, buy ebay pedal covers) [Save ~$100]

Bought/Used
- W58 Transmission [83 Celica] (Got lucky, this is what started the Swap) $50
- R154 Daddy Extended Shifter (Trade work)
- 1JZ/2JZ Bellhousing (Ebay) $320 + $40 Shipping
- REDLINE MTL (AutoZONE)
- Manual IS300 Driveshaft (Ebay) ~$100
- Flywheel (Light), Clutch (STAGE3) and Pressure plate (Ebay, XTD) $319
- Pedal Setup/ Master Cylinder/ Slave Cylinder/ Crossmember adapter/ ARP Flywheel/Pressure plate bolts
(Drift Motion is where I purchased the parts above from. I absolutely do not recommend buying from this company. They're extremely shallow and do not return calls if they've messed up your order. If for any reason your order is ruined because of their distribution workers, you won't be communicated to, they'll ignore any customer and keep your money. Aaron the owner hasn't returned any of my calls and is faulty.

If for any reason you have questions, I'm more than glad to answer and provide guidance.
My IS300 is an 2001 so the speed sensor is within the ABS
If for any reason your shifter seems like it's in neutral and doesn't shift, for my case my transmission was stuck in reverse. I just used a screwdriver and pinned it against the other fork collars. It shifted out reverse and my problem was resolved!
This is where I'll upload photos that cannot be uploaded here http://www.cardomain.com/member/daskiai/
 

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Did you cut the tunnel for the breather valve, or did you space the transmission down a little?
 

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So, I am confused...

In the early years of MY.IS, any time someone asked about an auto->manual swap (especially for the SportCross), the first answer would have been: "it's not worth the trouble. Just trade in your auto IS for a manual IS." A few people did go ahead with the swap and they had all kinds of horror stories about getting tab a to match tab b. These instructions make it sound simple. Or, at least, "worth the trouble". There is even someone here who has installed a M/T in a SportCross and passed smog in California.

So, what has changed over the last few years to make this swap so doable????

Now I am just waiting for the PnP 6-speed swap...
 

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So, I am confused...

In the early years of MY.IS, any time someone asked about an auto->manual swap (especially for the SportCross), the first answer would have been: "it's not worth the trouble. Just trade in your auto IS for a manual IS." A few people did go ahead with the swap and they had all kinds of horror stories about getting tab a to match tab b. These instructions make it sound simple. Or, at least, "worth the trouble". There is even someone here who has installed a M/T in a SportCross and passed smog in California.

So, what has changed over the last few years to make this swap so doable????

Now I am just waiting for the PnP 6-speed swap...
Curran has done a full 5 speed swap on his sportcross. He made everything as if it came from the factory that way, I provided a link to his thread.

As for why manual swaps are more common now its probably because parts are cheaper now that the car is old. Also for the boosted guys we know the w55 can't hold the power so we would have to swap the transmission anyways. In the end you can swap either a auto or manual chassis so that's probably why more people are doing it now.

http://my.is/forums/f88/auto-manual-swap-wiring-ecu-cc-nss-clsw-trac-snow-now-smogged-ca-434112/
 

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So, I am confused...

In the early years of MY.IS, any time someone asked about an auto->manual swap (especially for the SportCross), the first answer would have been: "it's not worth the trouble. Just trade in your auto IS for a manual IS." A few people did go ahead with the swap and they had all kinds of horror stories about getting tab a to match tab b. These instructions make it sound simple. Or, at least, "worth the trouble". There is even someone here who has installed a M/T in a SportCross and passed smog in California.

So, what has changed over the last few years to make this swap so doable????

Now I am just waiting for the PnP 6-speed swap...
If you do swap, buy the R154.. Like Blkaltezza said, the W55/ W58 is glass.. The auto in the IS300 is actually stronger than the manual.

So if you decided to swap, go with the R154 is money is an issue, it can hold tons of power, and is a lot less expensive than the V160/V161
 

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So the R154 is a direct, in-n-out bolt in? After a little internet snooping, I like the final overdrive ratio (0.75 vs. 0.85). It's kind of embarrassing to be driving at 3100RPM @ 70MPH. Even my Yaris has lower RPMs...
 

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So there is no need for a manual ECU and keys? What about a manual transmission starter?
I would use manual ECU ... Get your keys scanned to it from Lexus $130
Starter from auto bolts up the same.
 
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