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Discussion Starter #1
So after boosting my Is the left engine mount got weak and started to crack. Before any serious damage happened I ordered new Megan replacement mounts and figured I would take some pics along to help guide others planning on replacing engine mounts in the IS300.
Please use this guide at your own risk and only proceed if you are technically inclined and capable, I am not responsible for your actions or mistakes and if you damage your vehicle. A shop lift is the easiest way to this procedure. You will need a trans jack and adjustable support jack also.
Start with a cool engine and remove oil filter to gain access to left side mount top nut. Remove the center 17mm top nuts from both left and right mount brackets. The left side mount nut can be accessed from top, the right side I used a stubby 12point 17mm wrench and loosened from underneath.
Remove the radiator top mount brackets 10mm bolts and just lift the radiator slightly from base.
Depending on how your engine is of you are NA or Boosted check other things like catch cans, hoses and wires for enough slack that when engine is lifted few inches they wont break.
Now lift vehicle and undo power steering line bracket on left side of sub frame secured by a 10mm bolt. Loosen 2 17mm engine mount nuts on left and right side mounts. Unbolt Down pipe or whatever exhaust pipe you have.
Remove splash shields if you have any and unbolt the V brace. Be careful the No 2 control bushing might move down, so when the brace is removed snug the 17mm bolts for bushings back in so they don't pop out.
Put the support screw jack under oil pan with a block of wood and lift engine slowly. You can feel the movement in the mounts they are free at this time. But you need more clearance to get them out and swap new ones in.
Now position a Trans jack under the sub frame and Unbolt the steering rack and support it on jack. Mark the subframe with white out on left and right sides.
Loosen the 4 17mm nuts securing the sub frame to the body, it will move down slightly but because the sway bar control arms and struts are holding it still it wont come all the way down.
Have a friend pull down on Sub frame a little bit while you take one mount out at a time. Swap the metal hat and rubber cap on new mounts and Reinstall.
Install is reverse of removal. Make sure subframe is aligned to the marks you made earlier.
Take your time don't rush recheck everything for tightness and install a new oil filter and refill oil to proper level.

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Discussion Starter #3
It is achievable at home, but vehicle has to be high enough on Jack stands and will be hassle. Shop lift is highly recommended for convenience, especially to get extra subframe clearance.
 

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At what mileage did your start to fail? I'm probably going to have to order a set as mine is at 130k miles. I wish the original owner would of replaced it with the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mounts don't fail at certain mileage. You should check engine movement and pry each mount from under vehicle and check for failure. My mileage is 180k and oem mounts were fine until I boosted.
So verify and confirm first then replace.
 

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Did you have any added vibration from the new mounts? noise? just curious cause I put some harder mounts on a different car and cabin noise was pretty extreme.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is NO specific mileage interval on the IS when mounts fail. Same general rule applies for other vehicles as well. You can check your engine movement with a friend while in gear and brake depressed, give some gas and see how much engine moves then try same thing in reverse gear. If it seems excessive replace them. I went with the Megan mounts they are solid Rubber not Urethane so there is very little engine movement but no harshness or vibration.
 

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Old thread but I have to do mineoon.

Wouldnt it be easier to unbolt the engine block bracket bolts and the lower mount bolts and just pull it out. I imagine you would need some support under the crank balance until you get the new one in. But you would not need to lift the engine much.
 
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