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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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Anyone know if Aristo cams will fit the IS300? And their HP rating!


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I've read that the Aristo cams aren't much bigger than the stock GE VVTi cams, but they should fit fine. You probably won't feel much of a difference, but that's just speculation.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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746 Posts
I believe you have to use the stock throttle body along with stock TPS and APPS for the trans to work. I tried wiring my standalone to do the DBW and it worked, but the trans didn't work properly. I've seen someone mount it remotely in the engine bay and the car works fine, while having a cable driven throttle for the engine.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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746 Posts
I wish you kept the a650e but totally understand ditching it, I still have mine and wanted to know some secrets to keep it happy on standalone.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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Yeah bro I really like how the BW 8376 pulls, when it pulls it’s scary lol.

It was 6.8 before the head was mashined, they previously did the bottom end GTE pistons and rods in installed the 1.3mm hg but never shaved the head.


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6.8 CR? did it get positive pressure at 8000 rpm?
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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746 Posts
I bought a Comp 6265 and expected it to be lightyears ahead of my CXRacing dual bb turbo and to no one's surprise, it was considerably laggier. But the specs were completely different though, 6060 .58 ar to 6265 .81 ar. On the exact same tune, full boost went from 3500 rpm to about 6000 I believe and I was in a panic. After a few revisions and tricks I got it down to 4400 or so, which i considered good enough, but definitely not as instantly torquey as the smaller one. I really liked the smaller one, but it sucked on the highway.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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Do you know at what power level a 0.68 T4 turbine housing starts to become a significant restriction?

It seems to me most Supra/2J tuners go with at least a 0.82 housing, and often a 0.96 or even bigger... Which obviously hurts response a lot.

My car has a 0.68 and is even a bit laggier than I'd prefer. I can get a little boost at 3000-3100, but can't get onto the wastegate until ~3700.
It's mostly exhaust flow/rpm in my experience, my .58 6060 was good cruising around town, but fluttered on the highway.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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746 Posts
What oil pump do you have? I imagine there's a difference in the 3sge oil pressure vs 2jz oil pressure, unless it doesn't change at all.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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Real quick because we're talking about dashes, has anyone taken theirs apart to see if you can remove the red from the redline on the tach? I know you can take that panel off and replace it with a jdm or custom one I just don't know if I want to spend hundreds for that right now. I'm willing to take my own apart if there's any interest but I don't want to thread jack.

Just looked on eBay and there's a few cheap jdm ones that go to 7900, I'm going to buy one and make a thread swapping it out. Im on standalone so I can make the tach accurate.
 

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With MPX stuff, who knows. The accuracy of the fuel gauge is dependent on so many variables, who knows what the oil pressure one needs too. I hope the oil level sensor solves the problem for you.
 
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