[Kris OK]

can the IS300 stock rods handle 550hp!? Do I need to do my rods or will they hold the power I want?

Yeah, no, unless you guys got stronger rods and pistons in Straya than we did in the States. 550hp would not last very long imo. You’ve got a nice ride, and a nice parts list. Spend the money/time and get at the least GTE rods and pistons. You could upgrade to aftermarket stuff too.

I’m gonna offer some unsolicited advice too, haha. I’d advise getting some larger injectors for headroom. You’ll be able to get close to 550hp on 550cc but they will be near max DC. Never good to run stuff to the ragged edge. And if you haven’t bought that boost controller - don’t. Your Haltech will do a good job and all it needs is a Mac boost solenoid.

Got any more pics of that J pipe turbo set up? Or under hood pics?

 

[Kris OK]

reputable tuner said hook it up I need it for the tune

Ehh, “need” is subjective. The OLEDs look cool and do work. Depending on the install, haltech will let you do some cool stuff with boost, like boost by gear/speed and boost regulated traction control.

Thanks for the pics, that’s pretty cool looking. Bet that downpipe was fun to fabricate.

 

[Kris OK]

Bro the downpipe was the nightmare

. For the piston and rods does the top end need to come off!?

Yeah I can imagine that downpipe being terrible. Lotta shit in one area to have to account for. I’ve seen a thread here where a guy did pistons/rods from under the car. I would pull the motor and head if I were doing it but that’s just me.

 

[Kris OK]

That is a huge turbo

See that’s where I wish companies would just all stick to one style of numbering convention. A BW 8376 is the same as a s362sxe or if you go with Precision’s numbering style it’s a 6268. So it’s not a real huge turbo but you’d think it would be based off that 8376. It’s the same turbski I’ve got on my gte.

 

[Kris OK]

spools very smoothly and strongly and has a sexy hissing sound to it.

I’m definitely getting the GTE rods and pistons. Found a used set in great nick for $400USD

Yeah I like how mine sounds. Almost like a jet or dentist drill. I can’t imagine what it would sound like with a T51R mod. Too loud.

400$ is good price for gte internals.

How’re you doing your catch can? Mine froze last week, the crankcase couldn’t relieve pressure, so the turbo drain backed up and caused oil to leak at the rear of the turbo and burn. Smells amazing still hasn’t burnt all the way off. I’ve got a line pre-turbo to the catch can then line “Y’ed” to each cam cover. Best way to do it on a turbo car and keep pressure out.

 

[Kris OK]

Mishimoto can. Well man we were below freezing for 10 days and got down to -8F, you need to empty the can more often in winter because more condensation occurs in cold weather. I got lazy, can/lines got water in there and froze. I knew what happened soon as I smelled the cooking oil, and loosed the oil fill cap so it could vent the case. Turbo seals are like stepped-gap piston rings, so they’re fine no leaks. Cars fine, just stinky til the oil burns off. Lesson learned for sure!

 

[Kris OK]

That's terrible, was your catch can completely full?

Yeah nah not full at all, it’s one of those little Mishimoto clone catch cans, maybe had like 120cc in it. Problem was the “vacuum” line that went to the pre turbo intake, had some slack (low spot) and so vapor must have got past the can, condensed/pooled in the line and froze. Crank case couldn’t vent and so it pushed oil past the turbo seal. It wouldn’t thaw dude it was so damn cold we didn’t get above 32F for like 10 days.

Anyone know if Aristo cams will fit the IS300? And their HP rating!

I believe they will drop right in, but I have no idea about the difference in power band. I’ve got a set of VVTi GTE cams I would give you for free mate, they’ve been sitting since I went GSC S1 last year. I’ve read on Supra sites that they are the same cams even, GE vs GTE but I don’t know if that’s true. Without having them side by side to compare it’s all anecdotal. Honestly if your swapping cams, and therefore shims, I’d get a good set of aftermarket cams (BC, GSC, HKS, etc). It’s a pain to have to reshim so you should do it up the first time - but I am not the one spending the money.

 

[Kris OK]

Haha I have a Solara in pearl white - love it! So good when it’s clean. These cars are timeless with that body kit. That digital altezza cluster has always intrigued me. If they were cheaper I would take the digital portion out and try to put it into a USDM IS300 cluster. Don’t think I’ve ever seen that done before. May not even be possible?

 

[Kris OK]

Oil cooler

Man, you need to flip that oil cooler to where the oil inlet is in the bottom and the return is out the top. It will get air bubbles in it, the way it’s oriented currently. You want the oil to flow from the bottom up and purge the air out.

I bet you are getting excited for the 24th!

 

[Kris OK]

love how the BW 8376 pulls but just laggy and full boost by 5000rpm doesn’t do it for me,

A BW 8376 is equivalent to a 6268. So not hugely different than what they’re recommending you switch to. I’d say
somethings not right at all. This should be into positive pressure around 3200rpm and hitting full boost in the 4’s. Must be a really low compression ratio, but I don’t know how or why it would be that low. You done a boost leak test?

 

[Kris OK]

Unless he has a big back housing? Idk if he stated that

Yes that is true. I don’t recall if he said the turbine A/R. I think mine is .68 and I have the same BW8374 turbo.

 

[Kris OK]

I think the 0.91AR housing is what’s causing the lagginess full boost 5000rpm plus low comp.

Man I think in your case, the compression ratio would affect the spool time, more than the turbine A/R. I don’t think .91 is terrible , compared to a compression ratio of 6 - which if it really is 6, is terrible. I would run the BW on the engine with the higher compression ratio, just to see.

I’m sure the Aeroflow is a good turbo, and it ought to spool a bit faster being BB vs JB, however you won’t convince me it’s a better turbo than the BW. The Borgs are used OEM and have a proven track record.

I don’t remember what rods you are using. But if this thing is going to be hitting high boost /lotsa torque at low rpm’s, you will bend the rods unless they can handle it. Stock GTE rods can’t handle these hard-hitting, insanely low-rpm fast spooling modern turbos. So the tuner may have to keep it under control till you’re further up in the rpm range.

 

[Kris OK]

Tuner said the BW can’t make 3200rpm spool.

Tuner is FOS, man.
This datalog has mine positive at 2200rpm/75% throttle. By 3 grand it’s making 5psi and I’m in the teens psi at 4500rpm. Keep in mind that’s not full throttle either. This thing is a rocket ship on the highway. It won’t win any top-end race but it’ll get into boost so fast that its a handful if you’re not paying attention. I do repeat I have a .68 back housing and can’t calculate how much slower spool a .91 is, but I can’t imagine it being that much worse.

 

[Kris OK]

going from a 0.68 to a 0.91 back housing is going to make a huge difference

No doubt. But so is going from a 6:1 compression to a 8.5 or 9:1 ratio. Myself, I would try the .91with the Borg since he already owns it, and it’s pretty cheap and relatively easy to swap out if it’s not working.

Is it a .91 open or twin scroll turbine?

That’s what happens in boosted vehicles. The sudden rush of power. It’s where that happens in the rpms range we care about.

No, I get it. You’re talking about power down low or power up top in the range. Where the boost hits isn’t arbitrary, it’s governed by what we’re talking about. A/R’s, inducers/exducers, compression ratio, timing, etc. Believe me I get it. I’m missing that rush since losing compression on a cylinder 😥

 

[Kris OK]

Do you have a Dakota Digital or similar “translator” box between the cluster and sender? That cluster is from a 3SGE powered car, so I’d think it would read high as it’s not calibrated for a 2JZ. I’ve never done the Altezza cluster but I know it’s a thang for the rpm’s reading to be off, so I’d advise reading about the oil psi gauge as well - it may help point to the right direction.

Do you have a separate oil psi sensor for your Haltech? If so, what’s it reading? If you don’t, I highly recommend getting one. Also advise getting a fuel pressure sensor. You can engage failsafe scenarios on the Haltech to prevent damage. Plus add in a CanBus gauge because why not.

 

[Kris OK]

Pressure is pressure

It is, but not all senders and receivers are the same. If he’s got a 2JZ sender and a 3S “receiver” then like you said, the calibration is off. Just like acceptable oil psi on a 3S is different than a 2J or an LS.

What I was saying about the 4cyl vs 6cyl. Here in the States, guys would swap to an Altezza cluster but their rpm would be off since they’re using a 4 cyl cluster in a 6cyl car. So there’s companies out there like Dakota Digital that make translator boxes for people that like to do weird swaps. I’ve never done it, so I don’t know if such a beast exists for the oil psi gauge. I’d get a CanBus like PerfectTuning or BTI or GaugeArt and call it good. But he really needs to have an dedicated oil psi sensor hooked to his Haltech. Makes no sense to have the safety capability and not use it - especially with how meticulous this build is.

 

[Kris OK]

I’m not sure then. I have not done an Altezza cluster swap myself so I didn’t know if there was a translator needed for the oil pressure…similar to how one is needed for the tach. The video doesn’t imply one is necessary, just a specific oil psi sensing unit.

The thing I would add is an oil psi sensor to the Haltech. Something like this. You can set a failsafe for if you lose oil psi, it will shut down the engine or limit the rpm’s. Same thing for fuel psi. AEM Infinity can use fuel psi data to calculate injector duty, I am sure the Haltech can as well. Just some extra failsafes that don’t cost much.

 

[Kris OK]

Or you can buy same thing from Mouser for less

Yesss! It’s crazy what they can charge for a sticker on a Honeywell sensor!

 

[Kris OK]

tuner for final tune he’s said would be around Chrissy

That’ll make for a Merry Crimbo dindin!

previously tried a 3D printed version, honestly don’t bother.

Which one did you use? The top one looks like FIG’s brackets. Supposed to be pretty good.

 

[Kris OK]

Next is drive by wire setup

This is the way.

Where did you source it?

Theyve started to pop on eBay occasionally. Really cheap or really stupid Supra-tax expensive. Pedal < that’s not too bad. I gave 70$ for one awhile back JIC my etcsi ever dies.