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Discussion Starter #1
This is my 1st ever turbo'd car, so I am learning as I go. Here's the deal:

I cracked a ring landing recently, but the car has been plenty driveable. While I've been waiting on my new block to arrive, I've been driving the car and it could still go into boost...I could still hear and feel the spool, and I wouldn't feel the blow-by until around 8 psi. Only black smoke has been coming from the exhaust. This has been going on for 2K miles. Well, this morning, it wouldn't go into boost at all...no spooling, no blow off, and the boost gauge wouldn't go above 1~2 psi. Naturally, oil is being forced out and spilling all over the valve cover and all, but I've been checking the level daily.

Is it possible that my turbo has starved and fried? It's a T-netics 60-1 (bought new and boosted for 8K miles). Or, is this kind of response from the engine typical when you crack a ring landing...possibly more damage after driving for 2K+ miles???
 

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I dont know why you kept going into boost if you have a hurt motor. Do you have a breather on the valve cover? Could be excessive blowby. As far as not boosting as much... check that your T/B is opening up all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I dont know why you kept going into boost if you have a hurt motor. Do you have a breather on the valve cover? Could be excessive blowby. As far as not boosting as much... check that your T/B is opening up all the way.
I do have a breather. I'll check the T/B - why wouldn't it open all the way all of the sudden? I stayed out of boost as much as possible. On little to partial throttle, I could still hear the spool and feel a little pull (as opposed to now).
Thanks for the feedback.

Smooth 1 said:
Did you just get another 2JZGE or do you have the GTE?
I bought a GE with GTE internals :)
 
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Any excessive smoke that wasnt already present when you discovered the cracked ring landing? Whats it do at idle?

I hope you dont have more bad news....You 'were' on the road to recovery! ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Any excessive smoke that wasnt already present when you discovered the cracked ring landing? Whats it do at idle?

I hope you dont have more bad news....You 'were' on the road to recovery! ;)
The smoke has gotten worse since I discovered the cracked ring landing. Is it true that only white smoke indicates a bad turbo? Idle is stable / smooth. I'm telling you, Mike - I'm afraid to think of what else could go wrong at this point, cuz there's a good chance it'll happen LOL

Lexotic Concepts said:
maybe a vacuum line came loose?
I checked those and they seemed to be in tact, but it'll be a good idea to check again. Are there any 'hidden' ones I might've missed? (obsviously, I didn't install the kit myself)
 

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I really dont think its your turbo. There are a ton of white smoke threads here and most of them are excessive blowby....hell, you have a cracked ringlanding! #6 cyl might be shot as well. You can do a compression test but at this point I'd just pull the car off the road and rest til your GTE block goes in. :)

Theres a ton of small vaccuum lines that pwn everyone at some point in time under the oem tb -> ypipe....Where you're going to put your GM temp sensor for the F10x. ;) If your heart desires, troubleshoot away.
 

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Wouldn't running boost with a cracked ring landing cause oil contamination (gas in the oil) which will prevent the oil from doing its job well.
 

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What caused the cracked ringland in the first place? And you're boosting the motor with a cracked ringland, and probably the same bad tune that caused the problems. Not a good idea.

Probably blew another ringland or 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Running waaayyy too lean led to the cracked ring landing. The tune was corrected, but it was too late....it cracked just a couple of days after my tuning session at SRT. Mo said he was surprised it didn't happen sooner.

*Note taken on the oil contamination. It's my daily driver (i know - not smart if I'm boosting)

Also, thanks for the feedback on the vacuum lines, Mike. I'm going in!!!
 

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When your rings (or ringlands) become damaged or weak it usually causes excessive blowby basically your turbo has to pressurize the crankcase before it has useable boost.Due to the location of the oil return it will cause backwards pressure on the turbo seals(not good) which will cause them to leak oil which then causes less lubrication to the bearings(in the turbo) also (not good) especially for the brand and type turbo you are running. You can try to verify this by pulling off the air filter and check the turbos shaft endplay (can you move it up and down) and is there alot of oil on the fins ect..I would say your gonna need to replace the chra when you replace the motor. I have had good luck with these guys Turbo Turbos and Turbochargers- For all your turbo needs and yes if the turbo is leaking oil it will be more white than blue..hope that helps..
 

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your turbo is fine I THINK (at this point without taking it off and looking at it [which is REALLY easy to do compared to some other cars i've had my hands on] there is no way to tell because the rest of your car is running like all hell)...your engine is saying "F$%^ING STOP DRIVING ME!!!!!!"....in a nut shell. just because you can't feel boost doesn't mean your turbo is dead or a line is popped, the engine has to be healthy to make boost...were does boost come from? the exhaust gases....where do those come from? the engine..... :D

not trying to be a smart ass at all, but if you are driving the car with it that bad and are going to post about something else going bad...well you're just asking for it. Who says the thing doesn't piss out an extreme amount of oil and then starve your turbo? I don't think this is what happened or you would of said that you had NO OIL in your car when you checked it.

drive it as LITTLE as possible (i'm guessing it's your only way from A to B as well? or you wouldn't be doing this to the car) and get the engine fixed and all will be good....have fun boosting with a good bottom end :)
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Well...I checked the vacuum lines and no leak anywhere. About 35 miles later the car is now more hesitant and the smoke seems to be more gray'ish/white'ish. The car starts up 'ok' and idles 'ok', but it doesn't want to go over ~60 mph (it will, but it doesn't feel right) - this is very contrary to two days ago. :confused:

Next up - I'll check the turbo's shaft. I'm assuming it's a bad thing if there's a lot of oil on the fins and all? From what I've read, the turbonetics 60-1 doesn't seem to be very durable. What is the chra???

Disclaimer: Troubleshooting this may seem pointless for some of you, but for me, this is a VERY big deal. ...after purchasing a new built block, injectors, tires, and reserving money for a new stand-alone, and still having to pay SRT for all of the labor and tuning ...I just can't afford to spend another grand on an upgraded turbo and manifold :( ...there goes my baby back to the dealer's lot and I do NOT wanna go there
 

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Please stop driving the car.

You are doing so much damage its unbelievable. If you continue to drive it, you will ruin your entire short block, head, and turbo for sure. People have already listed a few things that are going on. But there are a lot more that what was posted above.

Again....Please stop driving the car.
 

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Well...I checked the vacuum lines and no leak anywhere. About 35 miles later the car is now more hesitant and the smoke seems to be more gray'ish/white'ish. The car starts up 'ok' and idles 'ok', but it doesn't want to go over ~60 mph (it will, but it doesn't feel right) - this is very contrary to two days ago. :confused:

Next up - I'll check the turbo's shaft. I'm assuming it's a bad thing if there's a lot of oil on the fins and all? From what I've read, the turbonetics 60-1 doesn't seem to be very durable. What is the chra???

Disclaimer: Troubleshooting this may seem pointless for some of you, but for me, this is a VERY big deal. ...after purchasing a new built block, injectors, tires, and reserving money for a new stand-alone, and still having to pay SRT for all of the labor and tuning ...I just can't afford to spend another grand on an upgraded turbo and manifold :( ...there goes my baby back to the dealer's lot and I do NOT wanna go there
CHRA = center housing rotating assembly...in short it's the center cartridge of your turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
^Thanks!

I'm still at work, so I haven't checked the turbo yet. I'm not trying to be stubborn about all this. I suppose I'll take everyone's FIRST piece of advice and STOP driving the car. Therefore, I now have to either make amends with my recent ex-fiance' or rent a car...whew...didn't have a clue I was headed down this road :confused: My karma should not be this bad. :pissed:

+ rep to everyone who chimed in. I luv this place... :)
 
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