I just installed some Irotors about a week ago(300 miles) and I get some steering wheel shake when I brake under at certain speeds and pedal pressures, is it possible they shipped me warped rotors? What else might cause the steering wheel wobble?
irotor question
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i thought you shouldn't put new pads and rotors at the same time?
i thought the break in procedure also required you to brake heavily...?
sentinel...what pads did you get?
i thought the break in procedure also required you to brake heavily...?
sentinel...what pads did you get?
for 200 miles...you're not supposed to break hard...you'll get more life and better quality if you had the cross drilled and powerslotted ones...although, you'll pay and arm and a leg for em...or you get try these next time...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33564&item=2451672049
well...thats strange that the shaking should happen...afterall...they are brand new...hmmm...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33564&item=2451672049
well...thats strange that the shaking should happen...afterall...they are brand new...hmmm...
Sentinel said:
He meant avoid hard braking if possible, unless its an emergency and you really have to come to a sudden stop.
I'd say give it another 100-150 miles for the pads and rotor seat properly. If the problem persist then it's possible that the rotors are warped. There factors that may contribute to warping such as improper seating/bedding/break-in procedure, hard braking when the rotor was still new or it may have been warped already when shipped to you.
It is important to follow proper bedding/brak-in procedure to prolong the rotor life and make it resistant to thermal stress.
So, its ok to blow up a shuttle since it is rocket science?
And....just because you put rotors on doesn't mean break-in instructions autmatically get formed before your eyes.
AND, I didn't know you could use 12mm screws to pop the rotors off. I had to do that on all of mine.
And....just because you put rotors on doesn't mean break-in instructions autmatically get formed before your eyes.
AND, I didn't know you could use 12mm screws to pop the rotors off. I had to do that on all of mine.
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I put those on as well Sentinel. I put the Green pads on and those rotors. I remember going on to their site or someone elses for break in instructions.
After about 1k - 2kmiles I had a shake and took them in to get turned. It lasted really well and I didn't have any shake for quite some time including several autocrosses. Just recently they started a little in the front right rotor. Nothing major but just a little. I'm going to take them in and get turned again and throw some new pads on this time as well.
I'd either return them or "turn" them. probably turn them though.
After about 1k - 2kmiles I had a shake and took them in to get turned. It lasted really well and I didn't have any shake for quite some time including several autocrosses. Just recently they started a little in the front right rotor. Nothing major but just a little. I'm going to take them in and get turned again and throw some new pads on this time as well.
I'd either return them or "turn" them. probably turn them though.
That is very disappoint my first set of cross drilled / slotted with 20k and a track day with nothing. I didnt know you could get them turned Ill check that. Might be cheaper to return them and/or buy another set.
How do u know which is warped?
How do u know which is warped?
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yep you can turn them. check w/ the shop first so they know how to do it. They have to take there time and just do a small amount each turn. Otherwise it will grab one of the slots and gouge it.Sentinel said:
on mine I could just feel that the front right was pulsing a little. Generally you can feel it. If it's both fronts then turn them both. It's cheap to turn them. I think it cost me 30-40 for both fronts or somehting.
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