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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so I didn't read the instructions for installing the wideband. So put the sensor in the header before i wired everything because i figured i can wire it at my condo. But i guess that you have to have power to it before you put it in the header. So my question is, do you think the sensor is broken? Should i even try, or should i just get a new sensor for the LC1? And what sensor can i put on it? Or can i even buy just the sensor?
 

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you just need to calibrate it .. Are you Turbo? Pull it out and Free Air calibrate the sensor, and you'll be just fine.

You really should read directions before installing expensive parts.

You can get the sensor at any AutoParts house .. Bosch Part number - 17014
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah it was my fault. I do take all responsibilities for it. I am not currently turbo, just have wideband to na tune my car once i get some cams. then later on turbo. I havent touched it since i took it out. It is just sitting in the box because i thought its broken already. Ill give it a try once all these exams are over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I put it in the headers. Is this bad? Should i move it? Im just na right now.
 

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what the crap is going on?

it's a sensor, it's supposed to go in the exhaust stream, you didn't hurt it. just follow the instructions to wire it. free air is the same as a sensor in an exhaust of a car that hasn't been driven in many many hours
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am not sure which is why I am asking, I will have an S/C setup soon and I am curious to the placement of the wideband sensor.
Lol ok. Sorry if i sounded harsh. But yeah just put it anywhere really. Since you will be going supercharged you should put it in the y pipe..
 

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I have one of these installed on my Mitsubishi Starion. They say its best to install it 25"-30" away from the outlet of the turbo. If you're not turbo then I would assume that the distance should be measured from the top of the header. Be sure that there is no air leak before the sensor. The sensor must be in a position where exhaust gases from all cylinders can be detected.
 

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Being N/A or S/C you would like to see both banks, and that would require putting the sensor as far downstream as the Ypipe. IMO its not a biggie though. I've seen one turbo install here with B1S1 and B2S1 in their appropriate banks on a tubular manifold, I like this if your using a piggy as you get bank specific trimming and retain the OBDII diagnostic logic for detecting a bad injector.

somguy2u, widebands are unique. If in the exhaust stream un-powered, you prematurely destroy the sensor. His best bet is to continue with the directions- free air calibrate, heater calibrate etc and see if it works. If it does, good stuff, but you may have taken a fair bit of miles out of it, if not, the LC-1 is great at finding something wrong and giving you an annoying morse code with the LED.
 

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heres the thing .... yes, it needs to see both banks .. but i assume its a suspect its a stock manifold? Putting it in the Y pipe AFTER the Cats, is going to make it useless ... Its not going to read any actual AFR.

We need more details on the setup.
 

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heres the thing .... yes, it needs to see both banks .. but i assume its a suspect its a stock manifold? Putting it in the Y pipe AFTER the Cats, is going to make it useless ... Its not going to read any actual AFR.

We need more details on the setup.
I run a lc-1 and i would agree it would depend on your setup. Easy way of figuring it out is put it as far back from the headers as possible without going past a CAT. I run mine halfway back on my exhaust but i am T/C and CATless :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ve read before on one post that someone did put it on the b1s1 before and it worked perfectly. I mean yeah you cant see both banks but it will still work. Wouldn't it be the best if you have two separate widebands for both banks anyways? But that is just unnecessary. I think im fine with just putting it in b1s1. And i think i read somewhere when you are NA you should put it closest to engine.

But dang i still dont have time to install it again. I just cant wait til i have no more exams.
 

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B1S1? Then were was the primary put? If your using the LC-1 to output a narrowband signal also to take the place of the OE sensor, in theory it would work but I've read plenty that it doesn't- haven't tried it myself though.

I put mine in B1S2 in conjunction with the PNP o2 delete when I was N/A. Seeing both banks is better, but IMO not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe i should put it in the b1s2? I dont really see the difference. But its not that hard for me to put it in the b1s2. Plus i dont really care about check engine light w/ trac light. But i can always splice the wires so that b1s1 and b2s1 is the same right?
 

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eihcir90, since your going turbo unless you go with a log mani with bungs for both banks, or do what I saw with a tubular and the person put the bungs there, over 90% chance you are going to splice the two primary sensors to delete one and put it in the downpipe so your OE ECU is not confused and makes tuning impossible.

But while your N/A, I like having the OBDII safety in place, that if you have a bank centric issue, the ECU will tell you (such as adverse fuel trimming between banks etc that through the ECU logic will throw a code telling you what is wrong).

What ever your flavor, while on piggy you need the primaries to be happy, be it splicing, or in the appropriate banks. Since you do not care about CEL, a sim is not needed for the downstream sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok finally got done installing this wideband. Now i have to buy a usb to serial port i guess. What else should i do after that? What do i do with the 2 male 2.5mm wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ugh 36 dollars for a cable :(
 
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