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Discussion Starter #1
ok doods for now... I am interested in just adding a nice amp & a small sub mabey 10 prolly 8 inches.... what size do y'all use when putting it thro the ski pass thru...??

...and i am not looking for a 800+ watt amp... just a nice 300-500 watts max will do fine thank you....what do you all in the know suggest...Money IS a factor too so i do not want to blow super huge bux here & then have to pay to get it all installed too I am not interested in the DIY scheme... wires scare me ....


edgy
 

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go to circuit city..they are advertising free installation with purchase of subs/amps...and their prices are cheap..
 

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aLexus said:
go to circuit city..they are advertising free installation with purchase of subs/amps...and their prices are cheap..
Edgy, do not let circuit city touch your car...trust me...a nice amp and sub will run you ~$600...nothing crazy but enough to give you some umph!
you also need to factor in wires/supplies and install...you can easily do it for less then $1k
 

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yea i dont recommend circuitcity either sh*tty ass workers,they focked up my sh*t too many times,i've went back there at least six times before they finally got the install rite :pissed:
 

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ED:

a 10" will fit in the skipass. however if you want to do a freeair setup you will need more power for it to be loud. otherwise you will get filler only.

wiring should be easy.. if i could do it, anybody can
 

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an good quality amp alone is around 500 so how can it be 600 for both an amp and a sub?? unless u want a sh*tty one...
 

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ig ot a kenwood 600 watt amp at tweeter and 2 pioneer 12 inche subs at best buy. with all the wirirng and stuff, and also isntallation at best buy, it costed me 385. ( i had a box already) with all this i think it sounds awesome. i didnt want to pay much and im glad cause its awesome and also warranty at best buy whenever subs blow i get 2 new ones. :)
im happyyyy

-Ramin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't ever get into " bumpin' with my stereo & shit like that..... i am not looking to compete in any kind of stereo contest ..... i just wanna get a little more out of it & not spend too much more $$$ I really know very little about this stuff..

I think the stock stereo sounds excellent for a CAR & i just want a little bit more bass response & volume & a bit more power... i'll not be adding DVD/PS2/Xbox or any of that schitt........

what the hell is "free-air"....?? what is the diff between " freeair" ... & "non" 'Free Air' setups?

I REALLY want to avoid introducing ANY foking rattles into my car also....


edgy
 

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edgy said:
I don't ever get into " bumpin' with my stereo & sh*t like that..... i am not looking to compete in any kind of stereo contest ..... i just wanna get a little more out of it & not spend too much more $$$ I really know very little about this stuff..

I think the stock stereo sounds excellent for a CAR & i just want a little bit more bass response & volume & a bit more power... i'll not be adding DVD/PS2/Xbox or any of that schitt........

what the hell is "free-air"....?? what is the diff between " freeair" ... & "non" 'Free Air' setups?

I REALLY want to avoid introducing ANY foking rattles into my car also....


edgy
a free air enclosure (also known as an infinite baffle) is when a sub is mounted and the back wave is not isolated. What I mean it that the subwoofer is just mounted to a wall or board and there is no cabinent enclosing the magnet.

For example the rear speakers in the IS are a free air type application, where the actual trunk isolates the back wave.

Cabinet style enclosures are more efficent and responsive, but harder to engineer than "free air" style enclosures. But from what you described for your listening habits, all you need is a "free air" style enclosure.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so what ever style of bracketry i can create or have made to mount the sub in the ski pass facing forward so the trunk is the " box/enclosure" & the back of the sub is visible...qualifies as " free air correct ?

I think i get it now...

.......& the fact that the " box" is the trunk & fairly large is why there is potentially a need for a good amount of power to help move that air ... meaning that if i used a 'box' that was tighter around the back of the sub
(less overall air volume inside.) I would not reguire as much power to get the max delivery out of the speaker...? correct?

How do most guys mount the sub. in the Pass thru...Is there a bracket avail. like the kits for stereos or is all this stuff custom made per installation & the stereo shop cats do all that shite...??

Anyone out there done something like this already? ... & have feedback on possible component choices, bearing in mind the economic considerations i'm facing I really want to do this for less than or at the MOST $600- $750 or so.....


Where are the best online prices for stereo Equip...amazon/ crutchfield/ ebay....??

& again thanks for all the edumacation folks i do appreciate it ... forever i have only been interested in making my cars go stop & turn like MOFO's this is really my 1st time even considfering this stuff seriously....



edgewood



edgy
 

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edgy said:
meaning that if i used a 'box' that was tighter around the back of the sub
(less overall air volume inside.) I would not reguire as much power to get the max delivery out of the speaker...? correct?
Well there's always a trade off between efficency, space, and, power.

For example vented and bandpass enclosures are more efficient than a sealed enclosure but require a large amount of space and have less power handling ability.

Anyways good luck.
 

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I think I'm in the same boat as Ed, and I've been looking into getting an Infinity Basslink... who has experience with the basslink and what are your opinions?

Ed, just in case you aren't familiar with the Basslink, its a 10" sub/amp combo that I hear is a great addition to stock systems. I know you aren't planning on a DIY install, but it is pretty easy for this. All you need is a power line from the battery and you get the signal by clipping wires onto the back speakers. But I've never heard the darn thing, so I was hoping for somebody to give me feedback. Street price is around $200-$220 from what I've seen.



http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='BASSLINK'&Ser=BSL&Cat=PSU
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WOW that looks interesting... i have seen posts on these or at least mentions of this & i knew not what they were referring to... this sounds like a good possibility.....?

does anyone have experience withthis & any feedback on how they sound...??


Thanks bro that is definitely an interesting option & the DIY angle is cool too... i am not interested in pulling the HU & tapping into the amp wiring as i guess is needed to add an auxiliary amplifier to the system.....


but THIS ... i can do :D

FEEDBACK ON THIS UNIT PLEASE..??????????????

edgy
 

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fuck u all, i work at circuit city....


well truthfully, when i went to install my viper....the managers did it...they let noone else do cuz they know they would fuck up....


do not trust circuit city roadshop at all... :)
 

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I have an Infinity basslink and I love it. As soon as I can, I'm gonna post pics of my whole setup; semi-integrated Ipod with a black skin, basslink in the ski pass, custom gain control knob in the flat space next to the coin holders on the left side of the dash. I mounted the basslink so it fires into the cabin, set the bass at 2 in the stock HU and I control how much bass I want with the knob, depending on what I'm listening to. The bass is 100 percent improvement over stock, seriously. Hits pretty good when I turn it up...

oh yeah, I got mine for $150. A friend works at Circuit city, I got this right before they took away all employee discount privleges... :D

Edgy or JOE, if you're ever gonna be in San Diego, shoot me a PM and I'll let you see/hear the setup.

peace
 

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Ed,

Sounds like a Basslink is what you'll want if you are looking for an easy and descent solution to more bass. You can only use so much more bass anyways unless you want the bass to overpower the rest of the stock system. Plus, it's relatively lightweight and easily taken out for track events.

Jason and I installed one in his car awhile back and it worked great! We did it in less than 1 hour. Just run a single fused 14 gauge or better power wire from the battery to the trunk, and everything else is done in the trunk. Tap the stock woofers on the rear deck from underneath and that's really it for wiring. Nothing you can't handle if you managed to install the O2 sims yourself. :wink:

BTW, do you have a rear strut bar? Clearance might be an issue for the IB sub if u do.

And just to clarify, IB (infinite baffle, freeair) subs do not need a lot of power to run. IB subs actually tend to have a lot less power handling ability due to not having an enclosure to support/dampen cone excursion. 200W on something like that would be plenty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well li actually have two 10 inch subs one wil lbe for sale i have a kenwood f2505 i think & a Sony xplode i heard the kenwood wil lpossibly be the better speaker... so i'll prolly sell the xplode they both are Br new in the boxes...also... i also have a 240 watt Coustic amp i got for a steal & the wiring kit etc etc....


looks like the basslink is out for me now as i will be mounting the 10 in sub in the ski pass soon... Malek will be helping me out there with the wiring etc... :D :p

I DO have the Cusco CF rr strut bar, & i also have the triangle braces to install too so i am a tiny bit concerned about clearance... but it looks like i wil lbe able to get it all in there & since i will be going Free-air, I do not have the box to contend with when looking at interference w the rr Strut bar etc etc...


what do y'all think....??


& on another note how do i actually control the bass output with this setup wired in...will the stock HU control it like it does the stock bass ??? do i need a separate knob for that...?



thanks doods!

edG
edgy
 

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Sounds like you found a good set of hands to help out! Don't you just love this community. Can always find someone with the right expertise willing to help out for a beer. 8)

So the two 10" subs you have....are either meant for free air application? If they are not, they will not work very well and sound like kaka. They also will tend to bottom out easily without an enclosure.

As for bass gain/adjustment... Once you have it all installed, what you'll want to do is set the bass gain on the headunit to 0 or even -1. Then trim the sub amp gain to an even bass level so that it is blends well with the rest of the system. That way, if you desire some extra bass on a track, you can do so from the bass gain on the stock headunit.
 
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