They are right around 3/4 to and inch currently from the firewall. The heater core tubes themselves do not rub, but if I attach a hose to it they do. Just afraid the engine vibration will wear through the coolant lines over time. Do you have pictures of your current setup? Thanks.You cut the pipe an inch or down to an inch....big difference there. I have had ZERO leak issues on my engine for over 5 years now. The lower hose is a Frankenstein'd line with rubber, aluminum, rubber and aluminum pieces on mine. That's just the way mine turned out, but I'm sure a better solution can be produced.
Are you planning on going GTE?Trying to get this straight... The reason why you guys cut the heatercore pipes, is because clearance of stock twins...? Also. Does anyone know the thread pitch size bolt you guys used to put the engine (Aristo motor) on the engine stand? (bellhousing bolts) If you guys still remember... Sorry if it's off topic.
I have read that the stock Aristo boost level is .7 - .8 bar (10-11.5 psi) and that opening up the intake and exhaust raises it to 1 bar (14.5 psi.) I have opened up my intake and exhaust and it seems in lower gears at full throttle my car is staying around .5 bar. It is only on the highway in 4th or 5th gear under high load conditions that it hits 1 bar. Is there an issue with the secondary turbo being actuated or the wastegate? Would adding a boost controler help this? Also, at what point will I need to be concerened with bosst/fuel cut and what method is used to fool the ecu or remove this on the stock Aristo ECU? I have read it is not as simple as getting a FCD becasue of the MAF. Thanks in advance.
Yea what he said. Sounds like you have a boost leak in a line or actuator. I can build full boost in any gear.You should be able to build full boost in 1st,2nd, 3rd, etc. Check that you have everything electrically wired and pneumatically tubed properly. Check IACV first then EGCV..
If you have 3" exhaust and no cat... once it's fixed you should have problems controlling max boost and boost controller will do little to help you.
You will know boost cut over 15psi when it hits a wall and shuts down ignition/fuel.
You in theory can use any engine and ECU so long as they go together....well to make the swap easier. The supra ECU won't control VVTi as GTE's here didn't come with it. I suppose you could probably run them in parallel, but in that case, you might as well run the Supra ECU with the IS ECU instead.So, out of curiosity, what about the 98 Supra manual ECU for cars with manual transmissions? What would prevent that from being used? Also it would have OBDII compatibility for people in emission controlled states...
Decent tuning capabilities have nothing to do with the ECU really. If your using a piggy back its going to do just that, piggy back off the factory ECU. If your using a stand alone it doesn't matter what ECU you use as the stand alone will be controlling all the major components needed to ensure your engine runs.so in order to be able to pass state emissions and still have a " decent " tuning capability the best would be to run OEM IS300 ecu in parallel with a standalone.
or is there a better solution ? ( while keeping OBD2 port working )
you CANNOT use the IS transmission with the Aristo ECU (which is what this thread is utilizing)Can you use the stock is300 tranny?