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When running stock twins, does anyone have issues with the heater core lines rubbing on the turbo feed pipe? I have cut back the heater core lines over an inch and had the turbo inlet pipe and compresser housng machined down 5/8 of an inch and it still looks too tight for my liking.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
You cut the pipe an inch or down to an inch....big difference there. I have had ZERO leak issues on my engine for over 5 years now. The lower hose is a Frankenstein'd line with rubber, aluminum, rubber and aluminum pieces on mine. That's just the way mine turned out, but I'm sure a better solution can be produced.
 

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You cut the pipe an inch or down to an inch....big difference there. I have had ZERO leak issues on my engine for over 5 years now. The lower hose is a Frankenstein'd line with rubber, aluminum, rubber and aluminum pieces on mine. That's just the way mine turned out, but I'm sure a better solution can be produced.
They are right around 3/4 to and inch currently from the firewall. The heater core tubes themselves do not rub, but if I attach a hose to it they do. Just afraid the engine vibration will wear through the coolant lines over time. Do you have pictures of your current setup? Thanks.
 

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Trying to get this straight... The reason why you guys cut the heatercore pipes, is because clearance of stock twins...? Also. Does anyone know the thread pitch size bolt you guys used to put the engine (Aristo motor) on the engine stand? (bellhousing bolts) If you guys still remember... Sorry if it's off topic.
 

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Trying to get this straight... The reason why you guys cut the heatercore pipes, is because clearance of stock twins...? Also. Does anyone know the thread pitch size bolt you guys used to put the engine (Aristo motor) on the engine stand? (bellhousing bolts) If you guys still remember... Sorry if it's off topic.
Are you planning on going GTE?
 

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I have read that the stock Aristo boost level is .7 - .8 bar (10-11.5 psi) and that opening up the intake and exhaust raises it to 1 bar (14.5 psi.) I have opened up my intake and exhaust and it seems in lower gears at full throttle my car is staying around .5 bar. It is only on the highway in 4th or 5th gear under high load conditions that it hits 1 bar. Is there an issue with the secondary turbo being actuated or the wastegate? Would adding a boost controler help this? Also, at what point will I need to be concerened with bosst/fuel cut and what method is used to fool the ecu or remove this on the stock Aristo ECU? I have read it is not as simple as getting a FCD becasue of the MAF. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have read that the stock Aristo boost level is .7 - .8 bar (10-11.5 psi) and that opening up the intake and exhaust raises it to 1 bar (14.5 psi.) I have opened up my intake and exhaust and it seems in lower gears at full throttle my car is staying around .5 bar. It is only on the highway in 4th or 5th gear under high load conditions that it hits 1 bar. Is there an issue with the secondary turbo being actuated or the wastegate? Would adding a boost controler help this? Also, at what point will I need to be concerened with bosst/fuel cut and what method is used to fool the ecu or remove this on the stock Aristo ECU? I have read it is not as simple as getting a FCD becasue of the MAF. Thanks in advance.

You should be able to build full boost in 1st,2nd, 3rd, etc. Check that you have everything electrically wired and pneumatically tubed properly. Check IACV first then EGCV..

If you have 3" exhaust and no cat... once it's fixed you should have problems controlling max boost and boost controller will do little to help you.

You will know boost cut over 15psi when it hits a wall and shuts down ignition/fuel.
 

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So, out of curiosity, what about the 98 Supra manual ECU for cars with manual transmissions? What would prevent that from being used? Also it would have OBDII compatibility for people in emission controlled states...
 

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Discussion Starter #52
You should be able to build full boost in 1st,2nd, 3rd, etc. Check that you have everything electrically wired and pneumatically tubed properly. Check IACV first then EGCV..

If you have 3" exhaust and no cat... once it's fixed you should have problems controlling max boost and boost controller will do little to help you.

You will know boost cut over 15psi when it hits a wall and shuts down ignition/fuel.
Yea what he said. Sounds like you have a boost leak in a line or actuator. I can build full boost in any gear.

So, out of curiosity, what about the 98 Supra manual ECU for cars with manual transmissions? What would prevent that from being used? Also it would have OBDII compatibility for people in emission controlled states...
You in theory can use any engine and ECU so long as they go together....well to make the swap easier. The supra ECU won't control VVTi as GTE's here didn't come with it. I suppose you could probably run them in parallel, but in that case, you might as well run the Supra ECU with the IS ECU instead.
 

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so in order to be able to pass state emissions and still have a " decent " tuning capability the best would be to run OEM IS300 ecu in parallel with a standalone.

or is there a better solution ? ( while keeping OBD2 port working )
 

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Wingzero said he was running with the stock IS300 ECU (i believe with no other EMS). So sounds like if you are worried about emissions you can just go back to the stock ECU for your emissions test and then run an Aristo/Supra/stand alone etc. the rest of the time, if im not mistaken?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
so in order to be able to pass state emissions and still have a " decent " tuning capability the best would be to run OEM IS300 ecu in parallel with a standalone.

or is there a better solution ? ( while keeping OBD2 port working )
Decent tuning capabilities have nothing to do with the ECU really. If your using a piggy back its going to do just that, piggy back off the factory ECU. If your using a stand alone it doesn't matter what ECU you use as the stand alone will be controlling all the major components needed to ensure your engine runs.

Easier (although not dead simple) emissions = Stock IS ECU w/Piggyback
50/50 Emissions = Stock IS ECU w/stand alone
Forget about Emissions = JDM Aristo ECU (or any JDM ECU Really)

There is NO JDM Toyota ECU on the planet that will interface with the Inspections machine here in the US. Period.

As far as OBD working, your best bet is keeping the stock IS ECU...I've been working on a way to read the Aristo ECU via the OBDII port but in all honesty, its been progressing slooooooow as I don't have the time that i used to anymore and I'm waiting for the weather to cool down to get back in the car again.

Can you use the stock is300 tranny?
you CANNOT use the IS transmission with the Aristo ECU (which is what this thread is utilizing)

If you guys are wanting to use the stock IS ECU or the stock IS transmission, you are looking at the wrong thread...look at the swap doc thread.

It sounds like you guys haven't read too much, I can't be too sure. But let me kindly warn you....PLEASE READ AS MUCH AS YOU CAN before you attempt this swap. There is TONS of information on this swap (although more information exists on using the IS ECU and transmission as that's what most people do) Read on which method works for you and talk to your tuner, then make a decision.

While I'm not going to sit here and guarantee your swap will come out flawless if you follow either of my methods, both threads are sort of base guidelines to get the job done. Everyone's swap is different. Again, I can't stress how important it is to READ READ READ and understand what you are doing.
 

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03 Is300 Manual. Running stock ecu, passes emissions. wideband reads 10.8 under boost at 13-15lbs. TTC mod, B2 sensors cloned to B1 O2 sensors. MAF moved to TB side as blow through located at frame rail 18" from TB. NO CEL'S
 

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