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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first time ever posting, but I need some advice and help. Was replacing the front bushings on a 08 IS250 AWD, driver side went smoothly but on the passenger side the 17mm bolt hole stripped. Tried chasing the threads but didn't work. What are the approaches to re threading? I've looked at helicoils and time serts but feel iffy about either one due to my very limited experience with them. The bolt will need to be torqued to 63 ft-lbs. I've reached out to a couple shops but they seem very hesitant about it and it won't be a few weeks before they can even take a look at it

More info: I think what I did wrong was I tightened the other two bolts before even starting the 17mm bolt and pressure was already being applied which might've allowed the threads to be stripped.

Definitely bummed about it, but I appreciate the help
 

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Without looking at the specifics helicoils should be up to the job, the coils will be stronger than the substrate they are screwed into and that torque is pretty low.
 

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The other thing a mate of mine did on an older car with a stripped subframe bolt was to tap the next size up thread and use a larger bolt. Just means you have one odd bolt to the others, not good for my OCD :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here's the best pictures I could take. The first few rounds of threads are basically gone, which kept the tap from getting started. Could just be a crap tap from O Reilly's though lol.

I did find a shop willing to take a look at it tomorrow so I'll update on how that goes. But also too this'll be great for anyone else in the future who makes the same mistake I did 😕 if they decide they don't want to do it though at least I know I have options
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More specifically it's a 1/2-20 bolt
Toyota is using imperial fasteners??? :unsure:

Perhaps this is why the threads are mangled??

Your best bet is to get a quality plug-tap, and re-tap the threads. The fact you've already got bungled threads will make it harder to get started, but it CAN be done. The risk with this approach is you're unlikely to get the new threads phased/timed exactly with original - so the new threads won't be as strong as new - but I think they'll be fine.

Barring that, perhaps you could drill those threads out and thru-bolt it? Looks like there's room above the crossmember install a nut from above?

Or, you could drill out the entire thread bushing and weld in a new one.
 

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Toyota is using imperial fasteners??? :unsure:

Perhaps this is why the threads are mangled??

Your best bet is to get a quality plug-tap, and re-tap the threads. The fact you've already got bungled threads will make it harder to get started, but it CAN be done. The risk with this approach is you're unlikely to get the new threads phased/timed exactly with original - so the new threads won't be as strong as new - but I think they'll be fine.

Barring that, perhaps you could drill those threads out and thru-bolt it? Looks like there's room above the crossmember install a nut from above?

Or, you could drill out the entire thread bushing and weld in a new one.
My thoughts exactly. I was not expecting that. But I also have not paid attention to bolts in that region.


This is my first time ever posting, but I need some advice and help. Was replacing the front bushings on a 08 IS250 AWD, driver side went smoothly but on the passenger side the 17mm bolt hole stripped. Tried chasing the threads but didn't work. What are the approaches to re threading? I've looked at helicoils and time serts but feel iffy about either one due to my very limited experience with them. The bolt will need to be torqued to 63 ft-lbs. I've reached out to a couple shops but they seem very hesitant about it and it won't be a few weeks before they can even take a look at it

More info: I think what I did wrong was I tightened the other two bolts before even starting the 17mm bolt and pressure was already being applied which might've allowed the threads to be stripped.

Definitely bummed about it, but I appreciate the help
That being said, helicoil it. Worked for my engine components and mounts.

I would look into using a higher quality set though. Autozone and Oreilley kits both broke on me. Ended up blowing cash on a good set I use maybe once a year but was worth it
 

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It wont be an imperial thread, especially the fact you are using a mm socket. So an imperial tap wont go in either way without cutting steel and weakening whats there. Measure the metric thread on the bolt and go from there, it will probably be an M10 or M12 fine thread. If its only stripped off a couple of the end threads you may be able to get away with a longer bolt holding on the remaining threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update: the shop went with re threading what was there and it ended up being a pretty simple process.

what have I learned? Respect the bolts lol. I really appreciate all the help guys. The O Reilly's kit only had imperial measurements so that could be why we couldn't chase the threads. Now I can add that to my knowledge
 
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