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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just got in some headers that I got from a member here and installed it last night, this header has to be the crappiest fit ever, the top would not line up with the studs, it was either one side in and the other side not in all the way, basically had to be forced in with the bolt after a couple tries, but that wasnt the real issue, when I went down under to bolt on the megan y pipe, there was atleast 1/2cm gap and now it won't bolt on all of the way, the headers are too short. Now I have some to the solution of extending my b-pipe at a muffler shop, would this be an okay idea? Has anyone had trouble with their header fitting onto an aftermarket y-pipe? Kinda regret buying this header but the price wasn't too bad at all atleast.
 

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who makes the header? its always hard to line up aftermarket parts thats are mismatched. even aftermarket parts matted to OEM parts do not always line up. sell both and spend a bit more and get mazzuri, everything lines up and you well get more power.
 

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The Megan headers are known to have a bad place for the O2 bung sensor cause it tends to hit the firewall of the car. So relocating it will be the best thing cause then it just slips rght in without any hard issues. I mean, I hope that that is the case.....
 

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The Megan headers are known to have a bad place for the O2 bung sensor cause it tends to hit the firewall of the car. So relocating it will be the best thing cause then it just slips rght in without any hard issues. I mean, I hope that that is the case.....
he said it doesn't bolt to the Y pipe. no mention of o2 bungs
 

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he said it doesn't bolt to the Y pipe. no mention of o2 bungs
I just mention that because I know that the Megan header are known to hit the firewall because of the O2 sensor and cause bad lineups...had trouble fitting the header with the y-pipe too but, got that resolved.
 

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I just mention that because I know that the Megan header are known to hit the firewall because of the O2 sensor and cause bad lineups...had trouble fitting the header with the y-pipe too but, got that resolved.
yup, I had to relocate my O2 sensor as well.
he might need to bolt up the y pipe w/ header first then pull the B pipe forward and bolt it to the y pipe. rubber hangers are flexible so you should be able to bolt it up.
I wonder what gasket is he using for header/ y pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i think the headers are megan copies because the o2 sensor does hit the firewall but that's not the issue, my y-pipe are megans and the gasket are the ones that came with the y-pipe, the only way i can pull the b-pipe forward is to take it to someone where they can use an impact gun and get under the car without any problems, i dont have enough room to mess with it. I really think I might go back to stock headers... because for some reason i can see something bending or cracking or something, unless someone can confirm that they had to move the bpipe forward a little too
 

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i think the headers are megan copies because the o2 sensor does hit the firewall but that's not the issue, my y-pipe are megans and the gasket are the ones that came with the y-pipe, the only way i can pull the b-pipe forward is to take it to someone where they can use an impact gun and get under the car without any problems, i dont have enough room to mess with it. I really think I might go back to stock headers... because for some reason i can see something bending or cracking or something, unless someone can confirm that they had to move the bpipe forward a little too

i had to move my b pipe forward a little as well. but i don't think it took that much effort in pulling my b pipe foward to mate with the megan y pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE, headers fit perfectly now, leak is closed, no welding needed for anything, and my car sounds like a beast with a little bit of backfiring i must say, there is only one complaint i have, when installing i noticed my headers touch a bolt from the frame or some part of the tranny i think, so now when i let off at high rpm, it rattles, any way to fix this?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
how did you fix it?
turns out the gasket was crap, i replaced the gasket with a paper material gasket and used an impact gun, no more leak, i've decided after searching around to heat wrap the headers to stop the rattling from header and bolt touching
 

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Wow. Big surprise. Megan Racing products being crap... You get what you pay for.

As for gaskets, almost everything that comes with gaskets aside from oem will suck. I don't even use them. Toss them aside and buy new oem replacements.

Heat wrapping will accelerate the chances of the header cracking.

I would advise against it.
 

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turns out the gasket was crap, i replaced the gasket with a paper material gasket and used an impact gun, no more leak, i've decided after searching around to heat wrap the headers to stop the rattling from header and bolt touching
that paper gasket isn't gonna last too long. been there done that already.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
how is heat wrapping the headers increasing the chance of cracking? I haven't seen any response to cracking from any members that have done it, I'm not saying you're wrong but I just wanna know, but hey if it will crack from heat wrap then I won't do it
 

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how is heat wrapping the headers increasing the chance of cracking? I haven't seen any response to cracking from any members that have done it, I'm not saying you're wrong but I just wanna know, but hey if it will crack from heat wrap then I won't do it
I've seen plenty of headers crack or fall apart after being wrapped. The condensation from the heat stays trapped against the pipes, basically turning it into a steam oven. I'd look into ceramic coating first.

Also dont buy trash ebay stuff, the type of steel they use is high in chromium content to look pretty but it is horrible for heat.

as far as manifolds go.....almost all of them can crack. Even Raicer of Full-Race has told me some of his manifolds have cracked, but with the warranty..they were just shipped back to full race, and fixed. I've talked to alot of shop owners/friends/other random ppl, who have had first hand experience of just about every brand (popular ones at least) cracking. megan, tomei, peak boost, ssac, gtspec, dc sports, they've all cracked.

the more money you spend, the less chance of it cracking. Granted alot it comes down to how you drive it, and how well the car is running...if you lean out the mix for more power, odds are you'll crack the manifold. (its not always about vibration..)

With cheaper companies like megan and ssac...its really a crapshoot. About 50% of them crack....but sometimes you get lucky. I once ran a megan for 2 years..havent had a problem with it yet...Granted taking out the turbo/manifold could be a little easier if it werent for the taller tubing, but its doable..lol. Over the winter I upgraded to a tomei unit.

Also, is the particular header you have a 4-2-1 or a 4-1 header?


Please remember guys. These cars only have one manifold. so it's header. Not headers.

=)
 

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how is heat wrapping the headers increasing the chance of cracking? I haven't seen any response to cracking from any members that have done it, I'm not saying you're wrong but I just wanna know, but hey if it will crack from heat wrap then I won't do it
Zar is right about the cracking in the header if you wrap them. I've read from previous thread about members getting cracks on their header.
But i mean, if it cracks, just buy another header since it really doesn't cost an arm and a leg to purchase a new one.
 

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Has anyone thought about hone/extruding the stock manifold? It will also net decent results. After that ceramic coat it. Your setup will be oh so sexy.
 

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i have the megan header... and honing wouldnt be a bad idea but the megan does one more thing than open up the exhaust...its a weight drop of quite a bit
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the input guys, well how much would it cost to even do a ceramic coating?
 
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