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TLDR: Im doing a head gasket and Ineed a link for a guide for removing the lower intake runners from the head. I have all the bolts out and it’s loose but it won’t pull far enough off the head studs it only moves about an inch or so. The wiring harness is a real pain to work around. Thinking I may just try and slide the head up and to the side pulling it away from the intake manifold to remove the head?

Long version:
Traded for an is300 that seemed to run well, was told it had a coolant leak and a vac leak as it would bounce a little on idle maybe 100rpms. Drove it an hour and a half home no issues other than starting to creep higher past operating temp as I pulled into my parking space. Next day radiator fully springs a bad leak On my way to work. Pull over immediately. Add coolant and attempt to drive home, on the interstate it starts overheating, shut it off before it hits the red after shifting to neutral and coast a few miles to try and avoid a heat surge from cutting the engine off. Wait for car to cool off, add some more coolant to make it the 5 min needed to get home. Next day take the wife’s car out, buy new radiator. Install suspected vac leak part next day (the weird rubber throttle body spacer) doesn’t fix the problem. Continue to install new radiator. Find previous owner never plugged the switch back in for the fans (god knows how long he’s been driving it like that). Have trouble bleeding the system after, keep getting air bubbles, but it gets up to temp and has idled for over 30 min now and air bubbles are very small and it’s getting late. Let it down. Go to bed. Next day test drive to work. When I hit the interstate coolant gauge drops to dead cold. Doesn’t come back on until I reach a very steep hill and only read about 1/4 of where it should be. Thought perhaps I’ve got an air bubble still in the cooling system. Also previous owner said he installed copper spark plugs so the next day I decide to try and reveled coolant and replace plugs with iridiums while I’m at it. Pull plugs first and find minor amounts of coolant in cylinders 2 & 3. Realize it’s a head gasket issue and become pissed. Traded a nice car for this thing to have a more comfortable daily. This is300 also has a rebuilt title so it’s not worth much. Call dealer and they want $2-3,000 to replace a head depending if it needs resurfacing or not. Call local well renowned machine shop get quoted $80 to resurface head ($160 with crack check). Decide I’ll tackle it myself. Within two hours I have the new radiator back out, belt off and exhaust manifold off, and down to the last piece of intake manifold and the nightmare begins. 3 hours later I have the bolts out of the dip stick tubes, the vacuum controller on the underside off, all the bolts out and the intake manifold will only move about an inch or so off the head. Idk if it’s wiring or what holding it back. Perhaps fuel lines? I’m having trouble locating those as it’s very hard to see underneath the thing for the brake master and wiring harness being right in the way. Whoever thought running the wiring through the intake manifold like that was a good idea should be slapped. I’m thinking I might just be able to lift the head up and slide it out towards the exhaust side as to pull it away from the intake manifold that way I don’t have to keep messing with the lower part any longer since it is disconnected from the head entirely just stuck in its place pretty much.
 

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Ye

Yeah I even have it printed out but it’s very lacking when it comes to the lower intake piece. It doesn’t mention how to work around the harness
It is fairly well covered by that PDF. The same site has the full factory service manual.
Now, If you can not see what is still attached. What have you taken off?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is fairly well covered by that PDF. The same site has the full factory service manual.
Now, If you can not see what is still attached. What have you taken off?
I’ve got all the bolts out and the upper intake off, and I’ve got the lower black vac pump or whatever off. Injectors are unplugged and rail is unbolted but still on the manifold as I was having trouble locating the fuel lines. I’m guessing there’s some wiring somewhere I’ve missed or the fuel lines possibly holding me back. I can move the manifold maybe an inch off the head then it resist
 

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this guy takes his upper and then lower intake off. take a look. visually seeing it can definitely help compared to a fsm
 

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I’ve got all the bolts out and the upper intake off, and I’ve got the lower black vac pump or whatever off. Injectors are unplugged and rail is unbolted but still on the manifold as I was having trouble locating the fuel lines. I’m guessing there’s some wiring somewhere I’ve missed or the fuel lines possibly holding me back. I can move the manifold maybe an inch off the head then it resist
Okay, so you got the intake y pipe and upper plenum off. Also fuel rail and lines. All 9 nuts to the head and the metal bracket brace is off. Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I managed to free it up yesterday. The fuel hardline was holding me back and two electrical connectors up front. I haven’t been able to fully remove the lower intake but it now can come fully off the head studs so that’s good enough for me. Will the machine shop require the studs to be removed from the head? I don’t have an E5 socket to do so, I figure they might charge me a little extra if they have to do it but that would be fine tbh. I also managed to use the ghetto wrap-the-serpentine-belt-against-itself trick to loosen my crank bolt, it was surprisingly easy to break free. PO told me he did a timing belt but must’ve been awhile ago because the lettering is worn off. I got stuck trying to break the cam pulley bolts loose last night, they’re surprisingly tight. I just used an adjustable crescent wrench to hold the cam but maybe I need to eat more spinach cuz damn those are tight. My impact gun rated for 400ft lbs couldn’t even free the cap on the vvti cam pulley. Also how do I go about tightening the crank bolt when I get going back together? This is an auto so I can’t hold it with the trans and I don’t have the special holding tool...
 

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my machine shop didnt care about the studs. you should be good. if they need to remove them, they will have the tools.

The cam pulleys are torqued @ 60ft lbs of torque from the factory. even so, mine was actually hard to remove as well.
I had to use a long breaker bar, and a wrench to hold the cam in place with my jack handle over the wrench so it was easier to hold. It was awkward and made no sense why it was so hard to remove.

As for re torquing the crank bolt on an auto. Id figure it would be the same method you used to remove it. Most likely will need the special toyota tool.

OR

I pulled these images off of club lexus lmao.
134374


134376


134375


134377
 

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lol, i was bending the steel bars i had when doing mine so i seriously doubt you are going to get the correct torque against a piece of timber. :D

Its not that hard to make something similar if you can get your hands on some steel plate, i would say 1/4" is a minimum (i was bending 1/4" bar but it worked just enough). Its probably harder to find someone with a torque wrench that goes high enough.
 
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