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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
I've been driving it for about 3 weeks. Some minor issues have come up. I need to replace the 'stat gasket. It's still leaking. I have the tundra pump now but, the hose rockauto sent was the wrong one.

Other than that, it's been driving great. I'm in the market for a manual transmission now.

It's a joy to drive. Even though it's an automatic, I can just give it gas and it'll boot out of my driveway sideways. You can just ride it with some counter till it straightens up.

Rear suspension needs something. Not sure what yet. It's not as controlled as I'd like. Maybe aluminum pucks between the subframe and the body to keep it from walking around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
Been fighting with a power steering problem since about day one. It's loud. I figure it's the pump. I changed the pump to a reman tundra pump.

Pump is still loud.

I check the lines and notice that all Lexus lines have a restrictor in the line, I assume to build up some line pressure. I get a new Lexus line and have an AN end put on it.

Pumps is still loud.

I switched to the stock GS PS tank.

Pump is loud.

Not much left to change. I bypassed all of the new return line stuff and cooler, run a line directly from the rack to the GS tank.

Still loud.

I have an IS pump here (two actually). I compare the two pumps and it looks like the IS pump will bolt on. It does bolt on but, it's 1/2" too short so, the pulleys don't line up. I added 4 washers to each mount bolt. The pump now lines up.

It's quiet.

So, I remove the return line bypass.

Still quiet.

Re-hook up my aluminum tank.

Still quiet.

Everything is hooked up the way it was except I'm now using an IS pump. It sounds great.

So, the takeaway is probably, never use a reman PS pump. My 250K mile IS pump is better than the reman pump I bought from Napa. This is the second reman I tried. The first one was bad out of the box. Had 1/4" of end play.

I'm going to order an OEM tundra pump. The amount of time I wasted on this would have paid for a new pump several times over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Still fighting with my power steering. I just can't get it factory quiet. My current theory is that the outlet on my PS tank is too small to keep the pump full of fluid. The noise I'm hearing is like the pump is starving for fluid.

My current tank has AN-6 inlet and AN-8 outlets AN-8 is significantly smaller than the inlet line to the pump.

Amazon.com: Canton Aluminum Power Steering Reservoir Tank -10AN & - 6AN MALE FITTINGS: Automotive

Ordered this. AN-6/AN-10.

Toyota wants $350 for a new tundra PS pump. They're on ebay for $49-100. I've ordered two and one should show up tomorrow. I'm stilling running the PS on my rigged IS300 pump.

I've tried two different remans and both were bad out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·


This is an image of the spreadsheet I used to re-pin the cluster so I could use a manual cluster from an 02+ in my 01 IS300. Finished it up tonight. Everything works. 01 doesn't have VSC so, the VSC wire goes unused.
 

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Did you run into the problem Brad had with the coolant/water temperature gauge not working? I remember reading it had something to do with the MPX/BEAN system..
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Did you run into the problem Brad had with the coolant/water temperature gauge not working? I remember reading it had something to do with the MPX/BEAN system..
Yeah, doesn't work. My plan is to get a real gauge because the stock gauges are "idiot gauges". They tell you cold, normal and too hot. The "normal" range on the meter is from 140-210F. So, it doesn't really tell you anything. If the gauge starts moving up from normal, you're already at 210 and climbing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Is he installing Lexus V8's or 2JZ? You know the MX bus is a ring topology. I wonder if the cluster isn't getting its's MX data?

I'll have to look at the wiring.

Ok looked. The cluster has two MX inputs. One from the theft computer and one from the AC control assembly. Fuel water temp, volts and econo all run off the MX. The fact temp doesn't work suggests it's just a protocol problem. The V8 ECU just doesn't' send the right packet to the temp gauge.
 

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just happened to find this thread in a random search I was doing. The temp issue was a register bit order issue from my memory so not protocol (they still use the same hardware layer) but actually a register map issue. I just got done installing an AEM sender in the water neck inlet for water temp. On the PS, nothing beats an OEM pump, but I had a whine until I ran a nice feed into the pump itself...like a 5/8" feed line, no AN fittings because the pump was barb. Its a GM reservoir. The UZ motor with a manual is pretty awesome, way more usable that even the valve body upgraded auto trans.

My biggest issue is the stupid coil pack connectors do not stay on, especially with what I put it through. They are constantly popping off and I loose a cylinder. That will be the next thing for us to tackle on the wagon.

Fig
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
My biggest issue is the stupid coil pack connectors do not stay on, especially with what I put it through. They are constantly popping off and I loose a cylinder. That will be the next thing for us to tackle on the wagon.
Wonder if I'm going to run into that?

On the PS, nothing beats an OEM pump, but I had a whine until I ran a nice feed into the pump itself...like a 5/8" feed line, no AN fittings because the pump was barb. Its a GM reservoir.
I still have a bit of a whine. On the pump side I'm using the stock barb, on the tank side I'm running an AN-10 fitting. The whine was worse with AN-8. It does seem like a feed volume issue but, I was wondering if my cooler is too restrictive on the return side.

How did you handle the codes from the missing automatic? When I hook up the actual solenoid I get no codes while just sitting there but, I get codes when I use resisters for the A solenoid. It really seems to be looking for a solenoid type load.
 

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I do not worry about a lit up dash. The car still runs and dynoed with the manual without issues. Since it does not go limp, I just do not worry about it. Another reason to use the separate gauge for water temp. I have a fuse installed in the harness to bypass the parking switch starter enable and that is it. Eventually we will go to a standalone, but I had thought of just putting some small inductor on each valve body line. Brad actually gave me a spare valve body that has all the solenoid loose , so I would make a PCB that had all the right values as a dummy, but I do not have time for that.

I also have a cooler on the return, but that would not cause an issue, its the pressure feed feed side for sure. My steering would actually go dead, but there was also a corkscrew of hose that had 2 kinks in it. now its a straight hose at the battery location with a large reservoir, I think 1.5L capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
but I had thought of just putting some small inductor on each valve body line. Brad actually gave me a spare valve body that has all the solenoid loose , so I would make a PCB that had all the right values as a dummy, but I do not have time for that.
It's got to be 12 ohms or it'll throw a code. Apparently it's got to be 12 ohms and act like a solenoid because the resistance is identical to the solenoid resistance but it still sets a code.




I might just mount A solenoid to this plate, make sure the plate is grounded and remove the first 12 ohm resister. There's another code for the turbine speed sensor. I won't know if it sets till I actually drive it. Too much snow on the ground right now.

Brad moved the ABS unit under the fender didn't he? I put mine where the battery used to be. Fender mount might be worth doing. It depends on where the ABS/Trac harness goes. If it goes through the firewall on the driver's side it would be easy.

I think next winter I'm going to pull the engine and remove all the extra wires and maybe move the ABS unit.



It my combo catch can/PS tanks. The AN-8 line is the return.
 

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12ohms is just a nominal resistance. An inductor is a current based device and has a curve associated with driving it. I am sure the lines have a current sense amplifier on them to monitor a functioning solenoid, but I would have to look back through the ECU diagram to be sure. In any case, an inductor is not a resistor exponential vs linear current. The solenoid driver has to over drive initially to create the field strong enough to translate it into mechanical energy then it holds. So its a 2 stage driver.

 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
12ohms is just a nominal resistance.
I get your chart. We can't start with more than 12 volts. So, Vb is fixed. If R is a transistor or solenoid driver. The ECU can ramp the R down at any speed it wants but with a fixed Vb and fixed L it's the only variable in the circuit. Our L also has an R component too, unlike a typical small inductor. Which limits current as well.

We know the output can measure current though so, maybe they are looking for a current ramp that ID's the Solenoid. I was thinking they were detecting the collapse of the magnetic field but measuring the inrush current ramp makes more sense


A solenoid has enough wraps of wire on it to have a DC resistance that in the case of Solenoid A is about 12 ohms. The shop manual indicates the ECU will set a CEL if the resistance of the solenoid if less than 8 ohms or greater than 100K ohms. So, I believe if you use a typical inductor like you'd buy at Radio Shack with effectively zero resistance, you'll end up with a code. It'll draw too much current.

I haven't dug too deep yet. I basically have 2 data points.

1 - With a 12 ohm power resister, solenoid A sets a code.

2 - With solenoid A plugged in (nominally with a 12 ohm DC resistance) , there's no code.
 

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yeah I think you are missing the fact that the solenoid is a complex load, not a linear load like a resistor. It varies with time. Also the voltage is not fixed to the 12V system. You can and typically do use a higher voltage to overdrive a solenoid via a charge pump.

All I am saying it is likely has a range of current over time that is needs to satisfy its logic. It might be a portion of the current rise sampled midway or the final value(which is the value it will approach on the top of the curve). A resistor is no inductor basically, so you cannot make it work like one. An inductors resistance varies with its conductor length and thickness, so right, you need the right inductor (or range) there which is what the ECU is testing for. It does not want a short and it does not want an open.
 

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Bump for updates? This has been a fantastic read, and as I am 5spd Already I will need to tackle this hurdle as well right from the get go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Well, other than detail work it's pretty much finished. I want to add gauges. Your existing 5 speed can work. The guy I bought my adapter from has another one for the W58 which is basically the same as the W55.

I've been wondering how I'm going to get it through emissions. When you wire it to run in "neutral" it doesn't even try to check the emissions stuff. For example I'm catless and it's not setting 420/430 CEL's. It's not even looking at the secondary 02 sensors. Basically, I need to be able to run it CEL-less with the ECU wired for reverse. In Reverse it tries to go into readiness. One issue with that is that it's looking for a speed sensor from the automatic. I need to create a simulator for that signal so the ECU things the speed sensor is there.

I have 2 years to get it through emissions though.

It's alot of fun to drive. Not sure what kind of fuel economy I'm getting. I keep driving it hard so probably not great.

Just changed the tranny oil to Motul Gear 300. The stuff I had been using was pretty notchy. Gear 300 is much smoother.




Catch can and PS tank. So far the catch can hasn't caught anything yet.
 

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I love this idea. The more I research your build the more enthused I get on making the plunge. I work as an MDT for Toyota and can get my hands on various parts and information for this kind of thing. I love UZ motors and had always wondered if it could be done properly. Unfortunately I am hesitant due to the fact that I am manual transmission and need to pass emissions inspection every year. Same thing had me on hold for boost as well. I want to be able to have a game plan before I begin.

As far as fitment goes, you said that you ended up using sc430 exhaust manifolds correct? Did you use the y pipe for an sc430 as well or did you go a different route? I would like to keep the IS p/s rack simply because I more than likely will not have a donor vehicle unless I can get a good price on one. Most of your pictures aren't showing up due to age I suppose. Same thing with the other guy who swapped.

Also, I am driving an 02 so I m sure the wiring will be a little different. Hopefully for the better not the worse. My IS is not my daily driver so I can take my time and get her right.

Thank you so much for telling your story here. Do you mind posting some pics of the engine compartment when you get the time? I would love to see your work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·


megan SC430 Y-pipe



Older pic of the engine. I have an aftermarket clutch MC right now.

You can't use the GS400/430 rack. It won't fit without mods to the engine cradle and the GS400 cradle won't bolt on.

What I did was do the install and get through emissions while automatic. Then made the switch to manual.

Also, I am driving an 02 so I m sure the wiring will be a little different. Hopefully for the better not the worse. My IS is not my daily driver so I can take my time and get her right.
I think it's probably a toss up. Probably no better or worse.


IMAG0111.jpg Photo by MasterKwan100 | Photobucket

Not sure if you can browse or not.
 

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Did you have trouble fitting the driveshaft after the plate adapter on the transmissions? How did the Bellhousing bolt up to the adapter? Looks like its great quality in the pictures. I won't be using a hydraulic release bearing since i have a w55, but it seems on their site that this is ok?

Also what clutch and pressure plate did you end up with? I just replaced my clutch w/ a "factory" Excedy Clutch, and I'm not to sure she'll hold the added power and torque.
 
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