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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, got out of the DSM game and picked up an 02' Intensa Blue Pearl Metallic is300. All stock, 144k miles with basic maintenance all done to her. I'm in the military so it's a little hard for me to work on her but I've got a lot of plans for her.



I actually bought it from a member on here, htekken, here's the link to everything he did. htekken's build

I've got about 12k more that I can spend so I'm working on my parts list now but my goal is for a high 600 to mid 700hp; Pretty much whatever the ar5/r154 can hold.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's my list so far, any improvements/changes please let me know!

Engine
Turbo: PTE6466/BW equivalent
ECU: Pro EFI
Cams: BC 264s
Cam Gear: BC
Motor: Manley H rods, Wiseco pistons, ARP hardware
Cleaned, Hot Tanked, Decked, Line Honed, Bore and Hone .20 Over
Springs/Retainers: Manley Springs and Ti Retainers
Waste Gate: Tial MV-S
Fuel Rail: Injector Dynamics
BOV: Dual HKS SSQs
Radiator: Koyo Racing w/ ARC 1.1 Bar Radiator Cap
Intercooler: PTE 750hp universal
Exhaust: Still looking
Intake: Still looking
Exhaust Manifold: Still looking (possible twin scroll)
Intake Manifold: Still looking
Throttle Body: Still looking
Oil filter relocation
Greddy Trust Oil Cooler
Catch Can
Prosport Oil Filter Adapter
Headstuds
Gates Racing Timing Belt
Titan Motorsports Billet Tensioner
ATI Crank Pulley Dampener
Upgraded Alternator
Megan Racing 70A Durometer Motor Mounts
MOJO Performance LS9 Coil-pack System
NGK BKR8EIX Iridium Spark Plugstire


Fuel
Goodridge Series 910 Teflon Aramid Kevlar Braided Fuel Lines w/Goodridge Fittings -8 Feed, -6 Return (-10 Upsized Filter)
Injector Dynamics ID2000
WELDON 2040A Fuel Pressure Regulator
Squash Performance IS300 Twin Pump Hanger
Dual Walbro 450LPH Pumps
Hypertune -10 Fuel Rail
Fuelab -10AN 6 Micron Micro-Glass Fuel Filter
ProEFI In-Line Flex Fuel Sensor & ProEFI Fuel Pressure Sensor

Drivetrain
Transmission: AR5
TRD Limited Slip Differential
Toyota Supra TT Halfshaft Axles
Clutch: Still looking
Flywheel: Still looking
 

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Nice Car man, definitely going to follow this build!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey. Great colored car and good to-do list. I'll trade you my turbo IS for your blue IS :grin:.

I wanted to detail a few parts for you concerning battery and ABS relocation.

$300 - ABS Relocation Kit
$65 - Optima Battery Tray
$30 - Battery Terminal Kit
Brooo that terminal kit is perfect thank you +rep! I'm still working with a shop on the finalization of parts but it should be done by this weekend.

So far I have the motor and transmission pulled and am waiting on my jdm r154 to be rebuilt (full marlin crawler build)

I'm going to be pulling my interior tonight as well and getting everything ready for paint tomorrow (damn sticky dash).

I'll have a lot more pictures tonight/later next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey. Great colored car and good to-do list. I'll trade you my turbo IS for your blue IS :grin:.

I wanted to detail a few parts for you concerning battery and ABS relocation.

$300 - ABS Relocation Kit
$65 - Optima Battery Tray
$30 - Battery Terminal Kit
Did you do the relocation to the trunk already? I'm planning on running a 12in sub and an amp as well so I don't know what kind of power line I should run.

Also, why not the summit relocation kit?
 

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And in to see the build just because you have dank in the sentence. haha.

as for the battery ... it's going to depend on how you hook things up, but the starter will be the biggest drop. If you ever nerded out like I do and actually look at the current being pulled during starting and then looked at voltage drop through different cable sizes... you'll appreciate that going bigger is better. Some battery relocation kits at 8 gauge, which I think is just too small. 4 gauge is more of a minimum, but ultimately would recommend 1 gauge or bigger.

If you want to head to the track, try to keep an eye out for battery/battery box/ can be NHRA approved.

Whatever the case, if you have any ring terminal connections, make sure they have a set screw. If you try just to rely on solder, odds are it could heat up, melt solder, vibrate and then come loose. If there is a set screw like most good audio type, it's a safer solution i.e. (just first one I found on google) Set Screw Ring Terminals - 1/0 Gauge Pair - Merchandise
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And in to see the build just because you have dank in the sentence. haha.

as for the battery ... it's going to depend on how you hook things up, but the starter will be the biggest drop. If you ever nerded out like I do and actually look at the current being pulled during starting and then looked at voltage drop through different cable sizes... you'll appreciate that going bigger is better. Some battery relocation kits at 8 gauge, which I think is just too small. 4 gauge is more of a minimum, but ultimately would recommend 1 gauge or bigger.

If you want to head to the track, try to keep an eye out for battery/battery box/ can be NHRA approved.

Whatever the case, if you have any ring terminal connections, make sure they have a set screw. If you try just to rely on solder, odds are it could heat up, melt solder, vibrate and then come loose. If there is a set screw like most good audio type, it's a safer solution i.e. (just first one I found on google) Set Screw Ring Terminals - 1/0 Gauge Pair - Merchandise
What would those screw set terminals go to?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the motor pulled and my second skin sound deadening is here! I'm waiting on my trans/motor to get built now so in the mean time I'm going to redo the interior, move the battery to the trunk and some other extras.



 

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What would those screw set terminals go to?
Brooo that terminal kit is perfect thank you +rep!
^the same thing you that praised terminal kit for.... except you screw it down.

I built my own cables with a mix of 0awg and 4awg using a crimper, solder and adhesive heat shrink.

here's the crimper: Battery Welding Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Hammer Style Crimp Tool 8 4 0 AWG | eBay

You smash the lug onto the cable with a hammer and cover it in heat shrink.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
^the same thing you that praised terminal kit for.... except you screw it down.

I built my own cables with a mix of 0awg and 4awg using a crimper, solder and adhesive heat shrink.

here's the crimper: Battery Welding Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Hammer Style Crimp Tool 8 4 0 AWG | eBay

You smash the lug onto the cable with a hammer and cover it in heat shrink.
Thaaaat makes sense. I was reading yours with how you have all three cables mounted, did you replace any of the wires inside the engine bay or just what your ran from the battery to the engine bay?
 

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Thaaaat makes sense. I was reading yours with how you have all three cables mounted, did you replace any of the wires inside the engine bay or just what your ran from the battery to the engine bay?
I replaced the alternator and starter cable with 4awg on the same post with the 0awg battery cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I replaced the alternator and starter cable with 4awg on the same post with the 0awg battery cable.
I have to spread more rep before I can give more to you, your electrical advice is really helping me out.

How did you mount that terminal? Did you just drill into the firewall?

Also, with your sub/amp and headunit, did you use a plug and play kit or did you have to run new wire for new rear/front speakers?

Also, if you ever want to sell that infinite baffle setup let me know. :grin:

I tried contacting them to make another but they don't anymore.
 

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I found a nice lip on the firewall to tap in to. Used self-tapping screws to mount it.
The top cable goes to the trunk for the battery. The cable on the right is the starter. The bottom cable is the alternator.





The yellow lug cable on the left goes to the center of this fuse block for the gauges and stereo:




For the stereo, I wired everything. I don't have a head unit :lol:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
damn that's clean. How long of cable did you run to the trunk? How did your grounds end up looking?
 

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I took those pics just for you :)

The battery grounds are documented in my build thread. Check it out... only the last few pages.

The only thing I still need to replace is the engine block to chassis ground. It'll look just as nice as everything else ;)

No idea the length. I think I bought 20' and just cut what I needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I took those pics just for you :)

The battery grounds are documented in my build thread. Check it out... only the last few pages.

The only thing I still need to replace is the engine block to chassis ground. It'll look just as nice as everything else ;)

No idea the length. I think I bought 20' and just cut what I needed.
I'll check it out! What are you going to do for your new ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got the dash out and all of the door panels and A pillars! Next step carpet, headliner, and the rest of the interior pieces so I can prep them for paint/re-appolserty.









 
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