I have heard of them and i try to follow their philosophy of light and reliable. Some of the bracing and doubling up they do i cant make sense in my head, my engineer friend dont believe in it either.
Its hard to know when to say, "yeah that's going to be enough" when you do a build like this. But i rather do that on the chassis as i feel you get the most bang, and it cheaper than building engines lol
Got a little bit more done in the brake and rear axle section
Mounted the Prop valve...perfectly straight... It should actually make it a litle easier to get the in line in...yeah thats why its like that.
Also cut out the old trailing arm bushings and put in the new urathane ones. should tighten up the rear nicely.
Finally decided how to do the rear lines to make the rear lines easy to bend and everything pretty simple. You can also see the Whiteline pahnard bar behind the axle.
Mounted the TEE at the bottom of the strut brace and you can see the flex line fitting poking up on the far right of the floor. I need to add a washer to make the clip hold it in tighter but it will be good.
The wife traded me some time this eve so i got the rear section of the brake lines run.
Also mocked up how i am brobably going to do the handbrake. I have to get the gearbox installed before i can remember the throw on the shifter though so this will be a last detail thing. The line roughts funny in the back because it goes around the fuel pump access.
And the rear section. Like a genius i used the polymer coated line for the handbrake to T first. so left me with one silver and one black one in the rear. Oh well. I need to make tie downs for them still but im pretty happy with my flares etc on them.
Its Been A while. The wife went away with the kids for a week so i had time to hole up and get some work done.
Finished bending the last brake line from the firewall to the prop valve. All the lines just need tying down now.
Also pictured is the ECU mounting. It used to bolt to the underside of the AC so i had to weld a fer tabs on to secure it.
Also got new rear rotors and replaced all the studs with ARP
I went to put on the Whiteline rear swaybar kit i got but as i bolted it up i noticed there was alot of play between the bar and the bushing. Sure enough the wrong bushings came in the kit. The company i got it from is trying to sort it out for me. Shakes fist at [email protected]
Also cut off the rear bushing in prep of installing the whiteline antilift kit, and decided to freshen up the paint a bit. They are different colours because...internet.
My buddy just got a strlet that he wants to fix up for rally so i broke him in by letting him help me delete wires from the dash. Filled up a plastic grocery bag and cleaned it up a lot
Besides this stuff i been cleaning things here and there and clearenced the rear wheel whels a bit more and painted them and cleaned goo off the body in prep for paint etc. Still waiting on a few parts to come in but its moving along.
Been slowly getting more work done. De wired the engine harness of un needed BS.
Put the Dash in to get a feel for everything and where i want to put the ignition. Im dumping the key barrel so ill just stick a "key" in the slot and turn to ign on then wire in a push button cuz the turn to start part takes a high amount of tourque for how it will have to be mounted.
Been spendint most time cleaning up and refreshing the engine. the outsides anyway. Changing timing belts and idlers and cleaning up the oil pump and pressure valve. Pulled that out and polished the pore and piston. changing the water pump and oil seals etc. The engine has a little varninish but over all not in bad shape. pressure valve on the bottom.
i went to put on the oil pan from the original engine (a '95) and it wouldnt go in. the pickup was hitting it. This engine is a '92 or so and it seems at some point they changed the pan and pickup.
The newer pan is on the bottom and it is shorter by wider. I decided to change to the newer one as it gives the car a little more ground clearence.
differences in the pick ups
My crank pulley is pretty nasty and i want to change to a lightened one but ill get around to that. Its pretty heavy.
I also cleaned up the valve cover some. all the pain is off so i degreaed it and got all the corrosion off and decided to leave it like that. But i polished the "TOYOTA" letters. A bit of a play on an old motor in a nely built car type thing... or some crap.
My clutch came in too. Got a sprung hub for the wife to cut down on the harshness a bit.
Also got the biggest joke when i went to check the original engine when i was replacing the waterpump on this one.
I still cant figure out how the car made it the 10 miles to my house...I need to find the person that worked on this car and beat them with a tourque wrench.
Alright guys so I’m not new to any of this just to the 2jz. I’ve researched soo much and haven’t really found what I’m looking for. Mainly just generically close. I bought a JDM 2jzge complete motor and wiring and stock ecu I believe out of a 01 is300. (Has coil packs)Was a auto. My plan is to...
Well Ive been out of the fun car game for a while, been rolling around in a 1995 Civic Si hatch for the last half year or so, I needed a beater since I drive over 70 miles a day. It got me around 33 MPGs but it sucked to drive. So I started shopping.
I picked her up with 32 miles. The...
I been trying to convince my wife to let me get rid of my Acura TL and get something more fun as a daily (IS-F). I been on here doing some research and thought I share my current built.. a 3 rotor last generation project.
I've posted this on other forums so pardon me if you already saw this...