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I currently own a 2004 is300 with 102k miles on it. It is completely stock as of now. I am fairly new to modifying cars other than intakes and breaks. I have plans for it in the future including coilovers, rims, tires and so on. But first I am in need of a front suspension refresh. Currently, steering is sloppy, there's lots of creaks and knocks when driving coming from the front suspension. I guess the main question is where should I start, I've seen products from figs engineering that offer a complete suspension refresh with all poly bushings. This is intriguing but I'm not sure if this is overkill. The goal is to replace old parts with upgraded new ones that will support further mods down the road. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 

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poly is a great option now. ive had mine on for over a year. after 6 track days and 50mi weekly commute, including some touge, they still feel like new. they aren't noisy, bind free and have kept my alignment true after 4 track days (will check again soon after the last 2 days) it's confidence inspiring that the car remains straight under threshold braking and steering response is wicked fast. I went full strong flex. I wasn't sold on the figs/super pro no. 2 bushing design but I know people that are content with them. I went for a cheaper option. also, don't forget the ball joints and rear knuckle lca bearing. I did all that and it feels way better than stock. I can't recommend it enough

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Is it worth it to press your own bushings or just get new arms with bushings already installed?
 

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Is it worth it to press your own bushings or just get new arms with bushings already installed?
I tried to save as much money as possible. so I pressed them myself. if you have the means, it will save you a lot. the strong flex kit is under 600 shipped. that's for every rubber bushing being replaced, every single one.

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I currently own a 2004 is300 with 102k miles on it. It is completely stock as of now. I am fairly new to modifying cars other than intakes and breaks. I have plans for it in the future including coilovers, rims, tires and so on. But first I am in need of a front suspension refresh. Currently, steering is sloppy, there's lots of creaks and knocks when driving coming from the front suspension. I guess the main question is where should I start, I've seen products from figs engineering that offer a complete suspension refresh with all poly bushings. This is intriguing but I'm not sure if this is overkill. The goal is to replace old parts with upgraded new ones that will support further mods down the road. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Being an owner of he IS300 2005 auto since about 2012, i can tell you a whole host of issues you can get your self into. First thing was i couldnt figure out why my car would overheat sometimes. Well eventually i put 2 and 2 together and everytime I used Additives in my gas to do cleaning they would eaither raise the octane levels which isnt good for this car and ill tell you why or may be something else but from what i experienced anything over 92-93 octance starts burning alot hotter and at ideal i can over head or going up a mountain i can blow a radiator cap off my radiator which has happend. Be very care with the things you add to the fuel like injection cleaning and fuel economy promises but far and for most dont start upping the Octane in these motors, What ive been told is that the Radiators on the IS are actually over sized for the motor. but still i was having overheating issue until i just stuck with strickly 91 octane and never had the issue again, thank god.

going back to your question... i would start with the rack and pinion. At about 120,000 (bought at (50,000 from a sweet old lady) mine was replaced do to alignments being to hard to boots being cut open and letting gease in and started to destroy the interior of the shafts so i did replace that.
Another issue is the Alligment of these cars. If your car has been in an accident, dont expect to ever get your aligment just right. with all the after market parts i bought to compensate for move movement on camber angles, toe, and Caster. For some reason my Casters have moved into the Red Zone for some reason but everything elee is green on a newly adjusted alignment. Tighting up one front corner will set off the opposite tire in the back. They told me it was very time consuming getting the alignment right but still doesnt look good.

Another thing is i wouldnt consider you to lower your car since i already have issues of it being as low as it is i actually desided to go with 225/45/17 tires, which work alot better in snow, ice, rain, becasue this car has so much low end tourqe you can find yourself spinning out giving too much gas around a wet corner, trac control helps alot but if you take it off, drive at your own risk. seriously ..

Have you peaked in and look at the rack and pinion? are the boots in good shape? this could be cause somekinda of grinding or worn feeling if your boots have been split open for a long period of time. Thats ok tho becasue you can buy a brand new one now pretty cheap and they are better than the ones that were in there in 2005, i have a lifetime warrenty on my new rack and pinion.

Also make sure you take care of blown shocks, this will make pulls and your tires wear out faster. not to consider they wear out just about as fast as you put them on.. but thats another story.

This car need to be aligned probably every month or so. Big O has a package i like that will cover me for the whole year on alignments! Just dont tell them to do work and then expect a free alignment. Alignment only or they charge if it has anhyting to do with susupention. (like adding a sway bar)

I feel like getting sway bars installed in the back and front would prevent and help the car from making rapid ajustment while your in a drify mode or spinning out and slightly turn an switch directions has this unwanted boat feel to it.

Where i would start out..
1.) change over to 5-30 Mobie 1 full synthetic if not already
2.) clean intake sensors and clean out the intake manifold, around 75 miles my car began to run a little rough i removed the airfilter all the way up to the intake manifold to where you could see the beautifully. And oh my god did i see so much black build up and dried grease on the side walls.. it looks really dirty.. After cleaning it out with solvents and letting the oil and extra grease got cleaned up from basic spraying and wiping. After everything was put back together turn over the car and started instantly and just idled perfect without even having the tac move at all. and should maintain around the 700 rpm level.

What i also found out is that this car needs to be ideling at about 700~750 rpm at normal operating conditions and temperatures.
Also people that wait for their motors to heat up before they drive is actually a paradox read up becasue it does more damage to the fuel injection car then if you were to just start the car wait 5-10 sec and get going.. As your car runs rich while its cold, Gasoline is a very power solvent property and can start striping away oil from piston walls, rings and parts of the chamber wall. The sooner you warm up over 40 degrees C or about 100 degrees your car has pretty much start running efficiently as possible. Also looking out on gas mileage because your car is running rich in fuel until its warmed up.

Also bad to do oil changed every 3 thousand miles in car over 40-50-60- thousand miles. do your research! It actually better for the engine to leave in that oil until around the 6000 mile mark. People do understand to frequent in oil change actually hurts the car, If you dont believe me thats the truth and you can say what you want but i will post all the top notch mechanic that have been publishing this stuff for years!

Old thinking = rat
new thinking and research = smart
 
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