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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My main concern is the tail lights (for legality/safety), but I can't help but feel like the problems are interconnected.

Replacing the fuse is not a long-term fix. It is not the bulb.

The car has been in a front-end collision and the cruise control doesn't work either.

After a little research, I saw that it might be a bad light switch.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks
 

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I've already posted a reply in the other thread, so let's just keep one thread on this, thanks.

Here's my reply..

No, they are all on seperate circuits, especially the fog lights. The taillights and stop lights share the same ground, that's it. You have a Stop, Tail and Fog fuse.

Since your 10A Tail fuse is blowing, it means one or more socket is bad or has poor wiring or connections....all four sidemarkers, license plate bulbs, front parking lights(tiny bulb in HID reflector). It also feeds the main taillights and inner trunk tails because those are dual element. This problem can take time to fix because there's a number of bulbs on this circuit as you can see from the above.There's a junction point behind the driver wheel well. All parking light positives are solid green, so you can disconnect the wires and find out which one is grounded. Since you mentioned about a front end collision, it could be the front side markers or front parking lights. Either take the bulbs out and try it, trace out the solid green wire at each socket, and/or check the condition of the socket.

The fog lights have their own simple circuit. The stalk switch turns on a relay behind the passenger side fuse box which feeds both fogs. I would disconnect each fog until you find the bad one(most likely a bad fog wire at the housing, I've seen em become corroded).

Whatever you do, Do Not upsize the fuse. Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah... after checking my fuse box, my seller had upped nearly every fuse possible.....

People these days...

I suppose I should have checked that when I bought it :p

THANKS
I appreciate the answers in english
 

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Yeah... after checking my fuse box, my seller had upped nearly every fuse possible.....

People these days...

I suppose I should have checked that when I bought it :p

THANKS
I appreciate the answers in english
No problem and good luck. Give us an update. Here's the layouts of the kick panel fuse boxes and what the correct size fuse goes where so you can make sure it's correctly rated(to protect wiring).

DRIVERS SIDE



PASSENGER SIDE

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm going to check this out with my mechanic friend tonight. I was checking out some wiring around the fog light area and I actually got one fog light working, but the power connector cable for the fog light won't reach the fog light itself (cord too short).

I think this car has some serious electrical issues, and I might end up taking it to lexus

/gag
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It looks like the fog lights are okay. I got one to work with a bulb replacement ,and the other one looks to be okay (the power cable from the front of the car doesn't reach the fog light).

I was thinking that if I have windshield wiper/tail light/head light/cruise control issues that there could be a problem with the head light switch?

It seems that the problem is likely to occur behind the steering wheel (where all of these lights/controls appear to go through)
 

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They are all on pretty much their own circuits though. When you turn on the taillights(parking lights), you should hear a click from the Tail relay(located behind driver fuse box). Glad to hear the fogs are ok, but it still sounds like on of the parking light wires are shorted pr grounded for the Tail fuse to blow. If you don't hear a click, then it may be control related(switching issue).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
10A fuse keeps blowing under "tail" still. My volt meter displays 12v coming to the fuse box consistently. Does this mean that the short occurs between the box and the lights? I took a look at the wiring and I see no issues.

Can I rule out front end issues?

What do you think about directly wiring to the bulbs from the fuse box with 12-14 gauge wire?

Dangerous fix? Would it work?

Thanks - Bruce
 

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10A fuse keeps blowing under "tail" still. My volt meter displays 12v coming to the fuse box consistently. Does this mean that the short occurs between the box and the lights? I took a look at the wiring and I see no issues.

Can I rule out front end issues?

What do you think about directly wiring to the bulbs from the fuse box with 12-14 gauge wire?

Dangerous fix? Would it work?

Thanks - Bruce
The Tail fuse socket is only "hot" when the Tail relay has closed, meaning your parking lights are on. What you can do is narrow it down by disconnecting three seperate harnesses at the driver kick fuse panel and it will tell you the problem area.

1K pin 12 green wire feeds
-front left side marker
-front parking light(little bulb inside HID housing)

1H pin 13 green wire feeds
-front right side marker
-front right parking light

1I pin 9 green/black wire feeds
-rear side markers
-main taillights
-inner taillights
-license plate lights

Also, the positive wiring is solid green up front and green w/black stripe in the rear. The passenger side taillight is fed from a wire that is physically taped to the bumper, you can see it underneath. At least this way you can narrow it down.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
These are some images from the drivers side of my trunk (right between the wheel well and the lights).

I found some Oily liquid and some random shit (clips/chunk of wood/spray cap) in there too. The wire i'm holding in my hand is pretty oily, and the stickers just pulled off with extreme ease.

Liquid damage causing the short? Bingo you think?








I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help in this, Jason.

And if this is too much and you want to "wake up" from this "nightmare" I'll totally understand. haha
 

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Your welcome, anytime.

Oil isn't conductive itself but over time, contaminants can actually make oil more of a conductor and can also break down plastic/rubber wire insulation. I would probably peel back that bundle, or slice it open carefully to see what the green/black wires look like. I'm also assuming with the 1H and 1K connectors in their sockets, the fuse does not blow(indicating a problem in the rear). Did you have an oil container fall over at some point?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did not, but I did notice a quart of quaker state in the rear where the spare tire goes. I suppose it could have spilled from previous owner.

I'm really thinking this must be the problem area. I'll check out the wires in an hour - I've been troubleshooting my car in economics class. haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The wires around the back left wheel well look just fine.

I disconnected 1I and the tail fuse still blew. Does this indicate that something on the fuse box is bad? Perhaps front end?

Thanks again!
 

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The wires around the back left wheel well look just fine.

I disconnected 1I and the tail fuse still blew. Does this indicate that something on the fuse box is bad? Perhaps front end?

Thanks again!
If you disconnected that connector and it still blew, that means it's one of the front side markers or parking lights. You can further narrow it down by pulling the 1K and 1H connector to tell you which side if you don't see anything. Doesn't look like the oil was a problem if 1l holds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll surely do that tomorrow - ran out of day light today.

I'm about to throw in the towel and bring it into a shop, but it's really rewarding to force yourself to figure this stuff out. Thanks again as always.

I'll post my findings soon!
Bruce
 

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I understand, i don't care for working on my cars at night myself. Keep narrowing it down to one side(one side marker one parking lamp). Make sure the fuses are only what it is rated for, nothing higher. The relay amd fuse box i don't see bad unless the fuse socket is very loose and has a bad connection. The relay could have bad contact tips but i think you'd have a problem even with a small load(just rears, which work). Narrow it down to the source if you don't have a meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Your "1I, 1H, 1K" tip is REALLY paying off I think.

I disconnected 1K and the fuse no longer blows.
That's the front-left side marker/parking light.

After starting at the wiring @ the light , it didn't take me long to notice an obvious problem... they were completely disconnected! (Pictures incoming later today)

This car was in a front end collision and now it has HID lights.

I think we're narrowing it down pretty well now!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I followed the disconnected marker/parking lights on the left side under the bumper and removed all the covering/electrical tape. It was really dirty (dirt in my eyes), but it seemed to be okay.

I think that I might take it in to an electrical repair shop now since it's narrowed down (probably save me some $$ for the hours of labor)

I still want to do it myself, but every night I ride without tail lights scares me more and more. hahaha.

If you have any final-attempt ideas, let me know!

I'll be sending it in to a shop on Monday most likely.

Thanks
 

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Sorry to hear when you have it narrowed down pretty good, basically to the left front marker or parking light on that side(since the 1K connector is the only one that does blow the fuse). It could be a green wire positive feed problem at those two lights, the sockets themselves or the white/ground ground wire and that circuit grounds to the left fender apron.
 
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