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The two notches on the cam gears are what need to line up to the two jumps on the back timing plate. Also as DH has said and I reiterate again those connectors are known to come loose especially with engine vibration and you saying the clips are broken. If they are even slightly off, under load there would be the proper connection to provide strong consistent voltage that they need to operate 100%
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The two notches on the cam gears are what need to line up to the two jumps on the back timing plate. Also as DH has said and I reiterate again those connectors are known to come loose especially with engine vibration and you saying the clips are broken. If they are even slightly off, under load there would be the proper connection to provide strong consistent voltage that they need to operate 100%
It makes sense and I really hope you're both right. I ordered these, they'll be here Sunday. Hopefully they fit properly and fix it, I miss driving lol. Gonna clean OCV, compression test, and check the gap on spark plugs while I have the intake off. Will update soon :)
 

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As mentioned it sounds more likely the coil packs, but just checking how legit was the new crank pulley sprocket you got? Just thinking if the sensor isnt close enough then the timing will get worse the faster it revs (probably not load related though)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
As mentioned it sounds more likely the coil packs, but just checking how legit was the new crank pulley sprocket you got? Just thinking if the sensor isnt close enough then the timing will get worse the faster it revs (probably not load related though)

Ordered an OEM Crank Pulley from Amazon. It came in a Lexus box and looked legit, slightly different color metal but overall felt quality. Here's a photo of it, little blurry.
IMG_3057.JPG
 

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What you're saying is exactly what my car is doing, super helpful thank you for the reply. I Ordered on ebay but the seller just canceled lol. Where did you buy yours??
I think I got mine off of amazon, it was only about $14 for FOUR CONNECTORS or so, compared to autozone at a staggering $45 FOR A SINGLE CONNECTOR, nearly a 1200% upcharge, blows my damn mind
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I think I got mine off of amazon, it was only about $14 for FOUR CONNECTORS or so, compared to autozone at a staggering $45 FOR A SINGLE CONNECTOR, nearly a 1200% upcharge, blows my damn mind
Sounds like I got the same exact ones! Yeah the upcharge for cheap Duralast parts is ridiculous. There are wires that come attached to the new connectors, did you depin/remove the wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Little update-

I took a look at the igniter and the clip on the connector was freshly broken off.. the clip piece was sitting not attached at all. It must've just broken otherwise it would've blown away pretty quickly. I zip-tied it snug but I won't be able to test to see if that was the problem until the OCV filter is delivered (filter was stuck had to break it to remove it).
 

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Sounds like I got the same exact ones! Yeah the upcharge for cheap Duralast parts is ridiculous. There are wires that come attached to the new connectors, did you depin/remove the wires?
I just cut the wires off and spliced into the new ones and reattached, then used electrical tape, and some heat shrink tubing to seal the connections up, and I do not believe the connections are polarity sensitive, so you should be able to just wire them up. However you may want to double check to make sure that's right.

If you're wanting to go the extra mile, and if I could do it again... For the most secure connection, I would wrap the wires together, solder them up, then electrical tape, then use a very specific type of heat shrink tubing that is considered Marine Grade, made from a material that is called Polyolefin Plastic & has a heat rating of over 250F. Of course this is a bitch, but the next time I go to do the service, it's how I'll get it done

Little update-

I took a look at the igniter and the clip on the connector was freshly broken off.. the clip piece was sitting not attached at all. It must've just broken otherwise it would've blown away pretty quickly. I zip-tied it snug but I won't be able to test to see if that was the problem until the OCV filter is delivered (filter was stuck had to break it to remove it).
I just recently purchased a used but in good condition ignitor connector off ebay and respliced the wiring since mine kept falling off and was giving me starting issues every so often. In regards to the heat shrink I was talking about, our engine bays get heat cycled like mad, so it's totally worth the extra pain in the ass over-securing everything for ultimate reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I just cut the wires off and spliced into the new ones and reattached, then used electrical tape, and some heat shrink tubing to seal the connections up, and I do not believe the connections are polarity sensitive, so you should be able to just wire them up. However you may want to double check to make sure that's right.

If you're wanting to go the extra mile, and if I could do it again... For the most secure connection, I would wrap the wires together, solder them up, then electrical tape, then use a very specific type of heat shrink tubing that is considered Marine Grade, made from a material that is called Polyolefin Plastic & has a heat rating of over 250F. Of course this is a bitch, but the next time I go to do the service, it's how I'll get it done



I just recently purchased a used but in good condition ignitor connector off ebay and respliced the wiring since mine kept falling off and was giving me starting issues every so often. In regards to the heat shrink I was talking about, our engine bays get heat cycled like mad, so it's totally worth the extra pain in the ass over-securing everything for ultimate reliability.

Sweet thank you for all the info. Super frustrating how brittle all the connectors are. I haven't seen any ignitor connectors on eBay yet but ill keep checking.
 

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When I replaced all of my coil pack connectors, I just re-pined them. No cutting/splicing. Its not all that hard to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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Discussion Starter #35
FIXED!!!

-Replaced coil connectors
-Switched to NGK iridium spark plugs (had brand new "V-power" plugs before)
-NGK spark plug wires

It drives and feels like brand new. Going to be driving it from Seattle to Atlanta (3,700ish miles) in January hopefully all goes well. ✌
Thank you, everyone!
 

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FIXED!!!

-Switched to NGK iridium spark plugs (had brand new "V-power" plugs before)
Something to note about the NGK plugs, they'll likely be fine, but I don't know what their wear characteristics are going to be like. The one's that Toyota chose were double tipped iridium, which I guess helps in some way or another, likely for longevity purposes. So if you find yourself not happy with the NGK's after however long, keep the Denso's in mind (y)
 
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