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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hav a 04 auto is300(dead stock). I decided to take it to Orlando Speedway today since it was Funday Sunday. I ran 3 times and the best time i got was:

r/t 1.345 (yea i know thats bad)
60' 2.413 (not that great either)
330 6.802
1/8 10.342
MPH 70.08
1000 13.350
1/4 15.893
MPH 88.76

I did try to power break it to get it off the line better. My best 60' out of the 3 runs was 2.365. I was hoping for mid 15's eventhough it was my first time ever at a track. Maybe my expectations was a little high.

Do you guys think this is a decent time for my first?? What kind of times did other members get with a stock auto is300??
 

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you definatly could have done better then
15.893 1/4
88.76 mph

still, respectable numbers for an auto IS...anf for your first time, those arent too bad....

you can do better then that stock, I ran a 15.5 @89 mph bone stock...however, I E-shifted.....and that made the difference...i was consistently in 15.7-15.8 straight auto..

next time, you might want to try e-shift, and power brake launching at about 2500 rpms....
 

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hit the power button, get up on the power, and floor it when the 2nd to last light turns on. You'll get near a .50 - .60 reaction time. the car will shift out at redline every gear with power on anyway. at least mine does.


how can e-shifting help make the car faster? it's such a sloppy system anyway. if you shift up with the button at 6,000 you're lucky if you don't hit the rev limiter. go drive an SMGII M3. Then the e-shift feels like poo :(
 

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davefisher said:
how can e-shifting help make the car faster? it's such a sloppy system anyway. if you shift up with the button at 6,000 you're lucky if you don't hit the rev limiter. go drive an SMGII M3. Then the e-shift feels like poo :(
If you know how to e-shift correctly, and shift it a little above redline whole 1/4 racing, you will see you get better 1/4 times then if you were to just leave it in regular drive....

look at my sig, E-shifting is great once you take advantage and use it right!

:chill:
 

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I'll have to try this. I was always under the impression that it was un-reliable when trying to get right at redline.
 

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davefisher said:
I'll have to try this. I was always under the impression that it was un-reliable when trying to get right at redline.
definatly give it a shot....I never used it either for the track untill another .net guy told me to try it, and it definatly made it different for me anyways....the trick is to be consistent with it, definatly takes practice..... 8)
 

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No offense bud, but E-shifting is a BIG mistake to get good times out of your car. Either just leave the car in auto and torque brake properly, or use gate shifting and use it RIGHT. You shifting alittle above what the straight auto shifts at doesnt do you any good, your power curve begins to go down well before redline unless you have a fuel controlller on your car where peak power is later in the RPM, more near readline. The car has max power around 5900 RPM and you shifting past 6500 is not beneficial.
 

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Malekreza11 said:
No offense bud, but E-shifting is a BIG mistake to get good times out of your car. Either just leave the car in auto and torque brake properly, or use gate shifting and use it RIGHT. You shifting alittle above what the straight auto shifts at doesnt do you any good, your power curve begins to go down well before redline unless you have a fuel controlller on your car where peak power is later in the RPM, more near readline. The car has max power around 5900 RPM and you shifting past 6500 is not beneficial.
No offense bud, but I got my best times E-Shifting.... 8)
 

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Malekreza11 said:
you can do better without it.
umm, actually no, in my experiances, I was getting 15.6-15.7 leaving it in auto

when E-shifting, I've been able to get it down to 15.40 with just intake/racepipe/exhaust

maybe when you had your 2001 e-shift, you werent very good?

:-?
 

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tsopranoMB said:
Malekreza11 said:
you can do better without it.
umm, actually no, in my experiances, I was getting 15.6-15.7 leaving it in auto

when E-shifting, I've been able to get it down to 15.40 with just intake/racepipe/exhaust

maybe when you had your 2001 e-shift, you werent very good?

:-?
Well i actually never ran my e-shift formally at the track, but what i can tell you is that my STOCK e-shift ran equivalent to a manual when i gate shifted and lost by a full car and a half when e-shifted. The e-shift was a poorly designed system for drag racing and was only semi-helpful on turns more than dragging. Imnot trying to bash you Bro, not at all, im just in awe that with those mods your car aint pulling any better that a 15.4. Do you know how much your car is putting down to the wheels? Also, when i gate shifted i CHOSE my shift points and not that chipset they call an ECU. The ECU shifts at readline, and like i stated earlier, shifting at redline wont help on a stock car. If your power band has been tweaked with via piggy backs or AFC's then your power may be more near redline, but on stock it isnt. On my MT im still getting the hang of it and i took out a manual 330 ZHP the other day and i have the documentation to prove it. He's a cool guy and admits that my car was quicker than his and he had a manual as well. Again, this was stock.

What RPM's are you launching from? If anything more than 2200 than you are only hindering your car's performance. I have noticed that about the auto's.
 

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Malekreza11 said:
tsopranoMB said:
Malekreza11 said:
you can do better without it.
umm, actually no, in my experiances, I was getting 15.6-15.7 leaving it in auto

when E-shifting, I've been able to get it down to 15.40 with just intake/racepipe/exhaust

maybe when you had your 2001 e-shift, you werent very good?

:-?
Well i actually never ran my e-shift formally at the track, but what i can tell you is that my STOCK e-shift ran equivalent to a manual when i gate shifted and lost by a full car and a half when e-shifted. The e-shift was a poorly designed system for drag racing and was only semi-helpful on turns more than dragging. Imnot trying to bash you Bro, not at all, im just in awe that with those mods your car aint pulling any better that a 15.4. Do you know how much your car is putting down to the wheels? Also, when i gate shifted i CHOSE my shift points and not that chipset they call an ECU. The ECU shifts at readline, and like i stated earlier, shifting at redline wont help on a stock car. If your power band has been tweaked with via piggy backs or AFC's then your power may be more near redline, but on stock it isnt. On my MT im still getting the hang of it and i took out a manual 330 ZHP the other day and i have the documentation to prove it. He's a cool guy and admits that my car was quicker than his and he had a manual as well. Again, this was stock.

What RPM's are you launching from? If anything more than 2200 than you are only hindering your car's performance. I have noticed that about the auto's.
well, my best trap was 91, on 18 inch ltuned rims, (my bodykit) and i've been told if I had the stocks on with some better traction on the launch and a better 60ft, I should have been at 15.00..and launched usually between 2000-2400 rpms....

better then 15.40 with my mods? Srt intake, xerd racepipe, draggerII exhaust??? I havent seen too many, if any, people get a 15.40 with those same mods.....I was pleased with those numbers...I dont understand your negativeness about my #'s.....
 

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I dont have negativeness toward your numbers, don't get defensive. All I was stating is that a number better than 15.4 can be acheived with an SRT intake, race pipe and exhaust, those mods are easily good for 15-20 RWHP. And lets say your car put out 175 stock and you added these mods, now you are at 190ish. Thats more than some manuals out there man.... And you got an auto and an auto will always shift quicker and more consistently than a manual. So if you were able to overcome the launch, and if you got that down, with 190 RWHP you should be able to do much better than 15.4. I think you can hit 15.2 or so. What were the conditions when you dragged? your 18 inch L-tuned rims are lighter than stock 17inch rims, just to let you know. Your body kit isn't heavy enough to constitute into slowing you down for jack didly. The total diameter of your 18's and 17's are pretty similar so the rim size here is kind of negligible, so i dont think throwing on 17's will improve your 1/4 by a full 0.4 seconds...

Like i said in my last post and this one, im not bashing you or putting your times down or anything.. Im just stating what i think...

What were you 0-60 ft times by the way?
 

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tsopranoMB said:
Malekreza11 said:
you can do better without it.
umm, actually no, in my experiances, I was getting 15.6-15.7 leaving it in auto

when E-shifting, I've been able to get it down to 15.40 with just intake/racepipe/exhaust

maybe when you had your 2001 e-shift, you werent very good?

:-?
wow, I never knew how slow these cars were!! lol! 15.40 with probably a 1000 in mods?? :wink:
 

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k-lo said:
tsopranoMB said:
Malekreza11 said:
you can do better without it.
umm, actually no, in my experiances, I was getting 15.6-15.7 leaving it in auto

when E-shifting, I've been able to get it down to 15.40 with just intake/racepipe/exhaust

maybe when you had your 2001 e-shift, you werent very good?

:-?
wow, I never knew how slow these cars were!! lol! 15.40 with probably a 1000 in mods?? :wink:
15.40 is NOT slow for the mods I had....how many other people on this board have done a 15.40 or better on an automatic with JUST: Srt intake/ Xerd Race pipe, and HKS draggerII exhaust??

:roll:
 

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Malekreza11 said:
I dont have negativeness toward your numbers, don't get defensive. All I was stating is that a number better than 15.4 can be acheived with an SRT intake, race pipe and exhaust, those mods are easily good for 15-20 RWHP. And lets say your car put out 175 stock and you added these mods, now you are at 190ish. Thats more than some manuals out there man.... And you got an auto and an auto will always shift quicker and more consistently than a manual. So if you were able to overcome the launch, and if you got that down, with 190 RWHP you should be able to do much better than 15.4. I think you can hit 15.2 or so. What were the conditions when you dragged? your 18 inch L-tuned rims are lighter than stock 17inch rims, just to let you know. Your body kit isn't heavy enough to constitute into slowing you down for jack didly. The total diameter of your 18's and 17's are pretty similar so the rim size here is kind of negligible, so i dont think throwing on 17's will improve your 1/4 by a full 0.4 seconds...

Like i said in my last post and this one, im not bashing you or putting your times down or anything.. Im just stating what i think...

What were you 0-60 ft times by the way?
yeah, but you keep missing my point here dude...

with my mods, my numbers are respectable....my 60 ft times were always good.... my best was 2.25 i think....


I DO NOT HAVE A HEADER

how many other automatic/e-shift people with my mods have you seen do better then 15.40 ? maybe a handful if any....If I had a header to free more flow up, I definatly see myself at 15.00....

8)
 

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I don't think arguing hypotheticals against documented times gives much validity. You can bench race or street race all you want, but the numbers speak for themselves.
 

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04Lextacy said:
Im a newb, so I'm wonderin what gate shifting is??
on the automatic

you put the car into gear one and then shift up two gear 2...then to low...then to drive......without hitting the brake

just keep shifting when you get near redline

it's supposed to be faster in the 0.25mile
 
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