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actually spc has both front and rear camber kit. the rear kit would have to be used in conjunction with the megan traction rod tho. spcperformance.com
 

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nice find. i might have to look into these. +REP
 

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why did you have this thread titled "Finally, Reliable Front Camber Adjustment"? how do you know that it's reliable? has anyone else tried them? does anyone have them? some feedback would be nice on these though... i would definitely like to hear if these really work because I can use some camber corrections also lol
 

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^^What he said, though the setup looks good and has been used on some other cars with success in the past.

But just so you know, there has always been a fix to that in the IS community, the Megan and Cusco upper control arms
eBay Motors: Megan Front Up Negative Arms Lexus IS300 01 02 03 04 05 (item 330208694987 end time Mar-01-08 08:48:40 PST)
eBay Motors: CUSCO UPPER A-ARM CAMBER KIT LEXUS IS300 #195-474-K (item 8042501178 end time Feb-17-08 17:34:15 PST)

Though I will admit, if this SPC joints perform as advertised on the IS, it will be a much cheaper alternative to what we have now
 

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Good find! Is there any reason to go with the Megan or Cusco arms instead. The boots on both of my arms are torn so I'll need to do something about that soon.
 

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to do the alignment i thought wheels have to be on the ground, right? if the wheels are on the ground how would anybody get to the ball joints to adjust the camber? there's barely any gap between the wheel and the fender.
 

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^^What he said, though the setup looks good and has been used on some other cars with success in the past.

But just so you know, there has always been a fix to that in the IS community, the Megan and Cusco upper control arms
eBay Motors: Megan Front Up Negative Arms Lexus IS300 01 02 03 04 05 (item 330208694987 end time Mar-01-08 08:48:40 PST)
eBay Motors: CUSCO UPPER A-ARM CAMBER KIT LEXUS IS300 #195-474-K (item 8042501178 end time Feb-17-08 17:34:15 PST)

Though I will admit, if this SPC joints perform as advertised on the IS, it will be a much cheaper alternative to what we have now
My understanding is that the megan a-arms WILL NOT give you positive camber, only more negative camber.

I just picked up some cusco a-arms myself. can't wait to install those bad boys.
 

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to do the alignment i thought wheels have to be on the ground, right? if the wheels are on the ground how would anybody get to the ball joints to adjust the camber? there's barely any gap between the wheel and the fender.
The Cusco A-arms have 4 settings...Either you want to install it at the most positive camber setting(to correct camber issues), or add negative camber to fit wider wheels, drift setup,etc...In other words you pre set the settings on the A-arm before you install it...Alignment is then done at stock adjustment locations...
 

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Nice.. Imagine the level of total negative/positive camber if you used these with Cusco arms..
 

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Nice.. Imagine the level of total negative/positive camber if you used these with Cusco arms..
Took the words right out of my mouth. I'm getting ready to install the cusco's this weekend, and while I was looking at the arms, I was thinking the same thing.

"how much camber did you say you were running?"

"negative 5 degrees?"

WOOT!
 

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My understanding is that the megan a-arms WILL NOT give you positive camber, only more negative camber.

I just picked up some cusco a-arms myself. can't wait to install those bad boys.
Actually the Megan arms from what I have been reading is just yet another Megan copy of a Japanese brand, in this case the Cusco. So they are one and the same

Edit: Checked Megan's site and they also say adds more negative camber.............. hmmmm
 

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Actually the Megan arms from what I have been reading is just yet another Megan copy of a Japanese brand, in this case the Cusco. So they are one and the same

Edit: Checked Megan's site and they also say adds more negative camber.............. hmmmm
I called Megan directly and the guy told me it does provide positive camber also.
 
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I bow down to the suspension guru that thoroughly explains the consequences of using these multible parts to "correct" the suspension alignment at rest, as I can only guess.

When either correcting for a drop, or for more adjustment for aggression (running crazy neg camber etc at rest) how does this affect suspension travel?

If one gets toe, camber etc all back to spec at rest with their "slam", how do all these parts (megan arm this, AAR arm that, camber kit this, toe arm that etc etc) that changed the geometry react to each other when the suspension is traveling either up or down in a .8+ G turn? How does it affect the Ackerman steering calculation? Is the geometry movement conducive to traction, or is it tire scrub hell?

Last time I autox'ed it was with a tire I later found out was deformed (tire treads can become deformed, it was hell trying to find out what was the culprit). I clocked in the same time as an OE suspension IS with less grippy tires. Tire scrub owns, period, I think it will negate any drop in the center of gravity, and even greatly reduce the effectiveness of sticky tires.

From my understanding of suspension thus far, one changes parts for the following reasons: Better tire wear daily driving, or to make said part stronger/less deflection. When trying to make a "grip" setup it requires the complete removal of all suspension parts and even relocating where said parts connect to the body. A complete redesign of all parts to make for a new geometry. It would be nice if this can be avoided with the right combo of replacement parts.
 

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One more thing to think about with this type of solution is that when you add to the top, the Wheels will come out accordingly. I do not know about most of you, but I run wider wheels and tires with my drop and this will take away from the clearance on the front and rear. Be sure to check your offsets if you are close.

There are alot of manufacturers that make sliding ball joints and I found some last year at AAPEX. I am still not sure this is the correct approach for the setup I want to run. 19x8 and 19x10 with no flares. I need the lower correction, not the upper ball joint. Contact patch wins the race, with a stiff suspension and limited body roll, the neg camber just defeats the patch. Its a balance of suspension travel and tire sidewall and dynamic alignment under compression that matters.

Fig
 

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ts a balance of suspension travel and tire sidewall and dynamic alignment under compression that matters.
Thats what I'm curious about. I am waiting for that "Holy" product/s that allow lowering of the car, and that while being compressed provides the correct geometry. Until then I'm only dropped about an inch1/2.
 
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