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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone I am just getting my 2002 IS300 back on the road after it sat for 1+ years (previous owner) and the front/rear rotors and pads are shot. I am looking for feedback on your guys experience with different brake part manufactureres and get an idea of what route I would like to go.

This is not a track car for me, more of a daily driver - but my daily driving is probably excesive and I like burning up back country roads whenever I get a chance.

I hear mention of Centric rotors very often on my searches, seems to have decent feedback. Anybody run Duralast Golds for pads? (I am military so Autozone gives me a 10% discount).

I am trying to order everything online to get the best bang for the buck, RockAuto, Amazon, PartsGeek.

Basically fellas if you had your 2 cents to give me on brake advice, I would appreciate the heck out of it. Thanks!
 

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I used EBC Green Stuff for pads and rotors in the front for a little while.

At the end of the day, I reverted back to OEM. Last year, I rebuilt/replaced all of brakes with OEM parts. I used discounttoyotaparts.com.
 

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Whatever pads / rotors you choose you should replace the rubber brake lines with steel and then change the fluid and thoroughly bleed the system ..... this will make the most difference on a stockish setup - even if you just do the front (60 bucks plus shipping).
 

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duralast

I changed my brakes out a couple years ago, went with Duralast Gold Cmax for both front and rear, as well as Duralast rotors for front and rear.

Overall, they are pretty good. Brake feel is smooth and even.

Only issue is on the rears, the rotor seems to scrape something on sharp turns, i think it may be scraping on the parking brake. I havent taken the time to pinpoint it, since it isnt that noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, after an argument with my Dad about the rotor wobble being fixed with a rotor turning, I am yanking everything off to get all 4 turned. The rears had zero wobble, the fronts are where I was feeling it from. I am thinking of doing duralast golds, quick and warrantied.

I have a pneumatic brake bleeder setup so I always swap out the brake fluid. I also always regrease the pins and clean everything up. This time I am painting the rotor hats and calipers as well. I finally get a break between semesters to rip the car apart and handle this. I will post some pics/feedback when its all wrapped up.
 

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As long as they're ceramic you'll be fine, it's a good idea to have all 4 rotors turned to have the most surface contact. But I honestly don't always have them turned every time, mainly if they already wear/run smooth. Mame sure the caliper dust boots for the mounting bolts are in good shape. Regreasing the shims, anti squeal clips, back of the pads is a good idea and necessary to eliminate harmonic and shifting noises. I believe I'm running Duralast's CMAX pads now and they are very quiet and not very dusty.
 
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