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hchan said:
I've been trying to find factory head bolts. The best price I could find them for is $18.86/bolt. You guys know of a better price or someone who actually has them in stock? Thanks!
Instead of Head Bolts, switch over to ARP head studs, it is cheaper and far better than the factory bolts. The ARP studs are the same ones used for the MKIV supras. You can get it for about $150-$175. Good Luck.
 

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what is their site?

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Swift Racing Technologies said:
hchan said:
I've been trying to find factory head bolts. The best price I could find them for is $18.86/bolt. You guys know of a better price or someone who actually has them in stock? Thanks!
Instead of Head Bolts, switch over to ARP head studs, it is cheaper and far better than the factory bolts. The ARP studs are the same ones used for the MKIV supras. You can get it for about $150-$175. Good Luck.
Correct me if I'm wrong... but I was told the engine has to be dropped if I wanna use arp head studs. What are you guys paying for factory bolts?
 

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As GTE mentioned before, it is near impossible to put a head on the block while the engine's still in the car when you have a stud kit.

The studs stick up so far, that you can't push the head all the way back then slide it over the studs, the firewall and wire harness get in the way.

If you have the engine removed, go for it!!


Kane
 

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hchan said:
I've been trying to find factory head bolts. The best price I could find them for is $18.86/bolt. You guys know of a better price or someone who actually has them in stock? Thanks!
I think I ended up paying 240 or so for mine. it sucked, but in the end it's a drop in the bucket.
 

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Kanine21 said:
As GTE mentioned before, it is near impossible to put a head on the block while the engine's still in the car when you have a stud kit.

The studs stick up so far, that you can't push the head all the way back then slide it over the studs, the firewall and wire harness get in the way.

If you have the engine removed, go for it!!


Kane
Umm, incorrect, the new ARP studs come with a allen key socket on top of each stud, so you put the head on the car, then put the studs in place (hand tighten using an allen key), then put the washer and nut, torque to specs. You are done, not only do you spend less money, you also get a much better method of clamping the head to the block (remember you can use the same stud kit over and over again).
 

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Now you tell me.. shit........ studs are much better, that's for sure. I just assumed it was a hassle to put them in is why I went with stock bolts.

oh well at least everyone else will benefit.

Swift Racing Technologies said:
Umm, incorrect, the new ARP studs come with a allen key socket on top of each stud, so you put the head on the car, then put the studs in place (hand tighten using an allen key), then put the washer and nut, torque to specs. You are done, not only do you spend less money, you also get a much better method of clamping the head to the block (remember you can use the same stud kit over and over again).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ah... fuck me... I just bought a set of factory head bolts.

Swift Racing Technologies said:
Kanine21 said:
As GTE mentioned before, it is near impossible to put a head on the block while the engine's still in the car when you have a stud kit.

The studs stick up so far, that you can't push the head all the way back then slide it over the studs, the firewall and wire harness get in the way.

If you have the engine removed, go for it!!


Kane
Umm, incorrect, the new ARP studs come with a allen key socket on top of each stud, so you put the head on the car, then put the studs in place (hand tighten using an allen key), then put the washer and nut, torque to specs. You are done, not only do you spend less money, you also get a much better method of clamping the head to the block (remember you can use the same stud kit over and over again).
 

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hchan said:
Ah... f*ck me... I just bought a set of factory head bolts.

Swift Racing Technologies said:
Kanine21 said:
As GTE mentioned before, it is near impossible to put a head on the block while the engine's still in the car when you have a stud kit.

The studs stick up so far, that you can't push the head all the way back then slide it over the studs, the firewall and wire harness get in the way.

If you have the engine removed, go for it!!


Kane
Umm, incorrect, the new ARP studs come with a allen key socket on top of each stud, so you put the head on the car, then put the studs in place (hand tighten using an allen key), then put the washer and nut, torque to specs. You are done, not only do you spend less money, you also get a much better method of clamping the head to the block (remember you can use the same stud kit over and over again).
return'em and get your money back
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tha Reaper said:
hchan said:
Ah... f*ck me... I just bought a set of factory head bolts.

Swift Racing Technologies said:
Kanine21 said:
As GTE mentioned before, it is near impossible to put a head on the block while the engine's still in the car when you have a stud kit.

The studs stick up so far, that you can't push the head all the way back then slide it over the studs, the firewall and wire harness get in the way.

If you have the engine removed, go for it!!


Kane
Umm, incorrect, the new ARP studs come with a allen key socket on top of each stud, so you put the head on the car, then put the studs in place (hand tighten using an allen key), then put the washer and nut, torque to specs. You are done, not only do you spend less money, you also get a much better method of clamping the head to the block (remember you can use the same stud kit over and over again).
return'em and get your money back

Returned. 8)
 
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