[Max30]

For the DIY mechanics out there, has anyone ever done an engine oil flush? Is it recommended? Any info would be appreciated.

 

[RotaryBzzz]

from what i have directly seen myself in domestics (and i'm assuming imports with their tighter tolerances), its a big no-no.
I actually witnessed someone's engine go after they had an oil flush done. Basically, you have built-up oil deposits - all of a sudden - freed from their bases. You have chunks of carbonized and sedemented oil floating around in the engine. Many times, the engine bearings or oil pump can't "chew" (can't swallow) that crap and it gets stuck. Viola!: engine damage from oil starvation.

IMHO, oil flushes at service places are like in-car fuel injector cleanings at service places: something to sell the consumer with very little benefit. Kinda like changing drivebelts at 30k...

Don't waste your money on this sorry-ass and unneeded "service" garbage.

 

[Max30]

Even if your car has 20K miles?

 

[RotaryBzzz]

why do it? No benefits are derived. No decreased oil operating temps, no decreased engine temperatures, no noticable increased oil flow, no better fuel economy. The service means nothing....literally ZERO BENEFIT.

Better to put that money toward buying a higher quality of engine oil.

 

[cis300]

I think, you need oil flush, when switch fr conventional oil to synthetic. 'Cause conventional oil and synthetic oil can't be mix. jus my .02

 

[Max30]

what kind of oil flush is recommended. i plan on doing it myself, not at the dealer. thanks.

 

[cis300]

I read dis in BMP Design or Bavarian auto, just can't find the catalog. But i'd go w/brand name like REDLINE, AMSOIL if they make any, better safe than SORRY. And add 1qt on top of that.

 

[RotaryBzzz]

yah, redline and amsoil are very good synthetic oils. Personally, i would go for redline
www.redlineoil.com

i believe there is an 800 number to call regarding where you can get their oils. The neat thing is that their change duration is like 12-15k miles although the oil filter should be changed every 5k.

If synthetic is not for you, go with Valvoline...reallly really really good stuff.
A friend of mine who does alot of machine cylinder headwork (literally his garage is full of machined, milled cylinder heads stacked to the ceiling - weird thing is he went to UCLA for his undergrad, dunno how he got into this) swears by it. Consistantly, cylinder heads he has worked on have had much less wear when the cars they came out of ran valvoline. A very noticable difference. I swear by it too. It really-really-really resists volitile burnoff. I believe the secret is in their additive package, not the base oil. Anyway, have fun under the car. Be careful and use jackstands; almost had a friend get squished under an E36 using only a jack....he missed gettin kilt' by...like...seconds.



[This message has been edited by RotaryBzzz (edited March 23, 2001).]