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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so my block and head are in at the machine shop

goal is to 600hp on pump gas but its mainly gonna stay around 400
i wanted the engine to be able to handle beyond that so at the end of the day it would be reliablle

i wanted a 9.0 cr which if i read correctly is perfect for pump gas
and i can do that by getting a thicker headgasket
when it comes to cr what should i be looking for

i wanna use pump gas and occasionally do e85


eagle rods
do you have to notch the block for this or when do you have to knotch the block?

oem pistons but wanted to get the rings upgraded if i can
if anyone has any experience please let me know

injectors 1000cc
is there such injectors that are plug n play?
they said the injectors should be 14mm wide and 66mm length
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i wanted the duty cycle to be low

acl race bearings rod, con , and thrust std size
i noticed they have oversize size whats that for?

i found a FFIM on ebay for 550 with TB and fuel rail
anyone with experience with it ..i believe it called deep motor

i was gonna change the main caps to the billet ones
but wasnt sure if that was actually needed it

and to put a bow on it
turbo kit with a piggy back ecu emange blue

i already repaced the entire oem suspension
 

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9:1 compression sounds good, but if you were to reverse your intentions - and choose to mainly use E85 - more compression would be better. With good ECU and flex fuel sensor, you can set up your calibration automatically change boost and spark timing to accommodate whatever blend of fuel is in the tank.

I wouldn't recommend using stock pistons for a high power build - particularly when you have the engine all apart and are actively rebuilding it with better parts.

1000cc injectors will be just barely adequate for 600whp if you'll be using E85. For the modest price increase over 1000cc, I would recommend 1300-1500; especially if you want to "keep duty cycle low"

The Deep Motor FFIM and throttle body is chinesium. You'll lose drive by wire and therefore cruise control and to some extent, your idle speed control. That manifold also has much shorter intake runners, which will hurt your low-speed power (and boost response!) quite a bit. It won't be beneficial to you until very high rpm (like 7500+). I think you're way better off to stick with the stock manifold, or perhaps one of the Dodo Raching GE-T lower manifolds that mates a GTE plenum to a GE-VVTi head.

I don't think there's any need for billet main caps for a 600 build.

I don't think a Greddy E-manage is going to provide you the flexibility and control that you'll want for your project.
 

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2002 is300
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9:1 compression sounds good, but if you were to reverse your intentions - and choose to mainly use E85 - more compression would be better. With good ECU and flex fuel sensor, you can set up your calibration automatically change boost and spark timing to accommodate whatever blend of fuel is in the tank.

I wouldn't recommend using stock pistons for a high power build - particularly when you have the engine all apart and are actively rebuilding it with better parts.

1000cc injectors will be just barely adequate for 600whp if you'll be using E85. For the modest price increase over 1000cc, I would recommend 1300-1500; especially if you want to "keep duty cycle low"

The Deep Motor FFIM and throttle body is chinesium. You'll lose drive by wire and therefore cruise control and to some extent, your idle speed control. That manifold also has much shorter intake runners, which will hurt your low-speed power (and boost response!) quite a bit. It won't be beneficial to you until very high rpm (like 7500+). I think you're way better off to stick with the stock manifold, or perhaps one of the Dodo Raching GE-T lower manifolds that mates a GTE plenum to a GE-VVTi head.

I don't think there's any need for billet main caps for a 600 build.

I don't think a Greddy E-manage is going to provide you the flexibility and control that you'll want for your project.
Everything in this is good advice. Figure out if you want to run mor ee85 or pump. You can always get a tune for both. I wouldn't get a thicker headgasket as that can cause some problems pushing the thicker gasket out. Main caps arent needed but if you have the extra cash I'd throw them in then you can run all the power you want without having to re open the block if you want more down the line. I think pump or e85 10:1 would be doable and easier to drive. Also replace the stock pistons. You can get rods and pistons with rings etc. for 1600. Rods and pistons drop right in with no mods to the block. I assume your crank is at the machine shop as well? If the bearing surface needs to be resurfaced they will need to remove amterial so they sell oversized bearings to compensate. They also sell different sizes to set your bearing clearnace. Thrust bearing is the in and out movement of the crank. You'll want to check this when you asemble the engine and make sure you have the right size bearing. I could be wrong but emanage Blue isnt being sold anymore unless you found one used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
in regards the intake manifold

i saw this on ebay
TOYOTA 2JZGTE VVTi INTAKE MANIFOLD = Supra Aristo VVT-i 17109-46100 17111-46042
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with the rad industries adapter this is a better option?


the oem pistons how much power can they handle?
getting the oem tt pistons a better route?
but i thought it dropped the cr too low
 

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Concur about that billet caps are overkill; the girdled setup on the 2JZ is really strong from the factory. If you didn't want to spend for aftermarket rods and pistons, GTE (or early/certain GE) rods and pistons are a bit of an upgrade if you can find them. The GTE MLS gasket is a bit thicker, and OEM Toyota; I don't have the specs at the moment but I have a few on hand: should have no concerns about "blowing it out" but I'm also not a turbo guy. I'll be following your build, be sure to share how it goes!
 

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the oem pistons how much power can they handle?
getting the oem tt pistons a better route?
but i thought it dropped the cr too low
The Rad industries one will work to bolt the GE lower intake runner to the GTE upper runner/ffim. Double check for sure. they have a YouTube channel and I’m sure they’ll have a video about it. I think it’s in their sc300 NAT series.

The GE VVTI pistons are on a time bomb above 400whp. The GTE ones are what you need if you want oem style upgrades. At a ~9.1 CR, I was getting knock with 91 octane at around 400hp with stock cams. I don’t think you’ve mentioned valve train yet but I’d highly doubt you can reach 600whp on pump gas with the stock valve train. I’d suggest at least a bc264 with upgraded valve springs so that you can run lower boost to a higher rpm for pump gas.

Correct me if I’m wrong but GTE pistons and GRE head gasket will yield a slightly lower CR than 8.5:1. Like 8.3 or 8.4? Somebody did the math, it’s on the site somewhere.

The deatchwerks 1000cc injectorfor the IS300 is straight drop in. Change injector tables with their values and you’ll be good to go. 1000cc is good for 1000hp on race gas on a 2JZ. Take 35% off for e85 if you want to be conservative. So the 1000cc will be good for 650whp.
 

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in regards the intake manifold

i saw this on ebay
TOYOTA 2JZGTE VVTi INTAKE MANIFOLD = Supra Aristo VVT-i 17109-46100 17111-46042
View attachment 142342

with the rad industries adapter this is a better option?


the oem pistons how much power can they handle?
getting the oem tt pistons a better route?
but i thought it dropped the cr too low
The adaptor will create a kink for the airflow; it'll also make the GTE manifold sit higher and further outboard. It won't fit under the hood without clearancing. See my thread about fitting a FFIM for more detail.

Generally speaking, stock pistons fail because of ring-ends butting up against each other - which rips the top ring land off. I can't state this as a fact for the 2J, but it's been clearly demonstrated in LS land... "They" used to say LS pistons could only handle 650hp or so, when in reality, thats the point where stock ring gap allowed the ring-ends to butt. Simply opening ring gap allows stock pistons to handle much more power/heat.

That said, you've got the engine apart - why not put quality forged pistons in there? Don't forget, GTE pistons are cast hypereutectic
 

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If you're on a budget get a forged rod and piston kit on eBay and skip the main caps. The stock gte headgasket is a good option id just stay away from headgaskets that drop the cr as those cause problems. I'd focus on quality internals yoy can always add cams or an intake manifold later on. Upgrading internals is a pain.
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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Please replace the Emanage Blue with a real piggyback like a DET3 or something. Might as well use stock ECU instead of the Blue. Or get a real ECU.
 

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what is your budget for all of this? The greddy ultimate is good for low budget since it’s tried and tested for the IS300. Speeduino is another option for a budget piggyback (well standalone really). Rusefi is another option for a budget piggyback (really just another standalone). Both of those are open source and aims to be budget friendly which is great if you don’t have the budget but know what you are doing. Emphasis on the knowing what you’re doing. True piggybacks are annoying, get a standalone if you can. Speeduino and rusefi are cheap standalone options if you can get it working yourself otherwise they’ll probably cost more than a standalone to have someone else make them work.
 
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