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Way back in the day. There where a few members that got to your HP mark with a piggy back. Just was temperamental and needed to rest the ECU every now a then. With a piggyback the ECU would be happy for emissions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It is kind of a headache picking a transmission. I hunted on eBay for months before I found my AR5. For 500 I'd say R154 or an AR5 if you can find one. Works pretty well with the stock differential and uses all OEM parts (and stuff you can still buy new).
how was the installation on that bad boy?
 

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It is kind of a headache picking a transmission. I hunted on eBay for months before I found my AR5. For 500 I'd say R154 or an AR5 if you can find one. Works pretty well with the stock differential and uses all OEM parts (and stuff you can still buy new).
how was the installation on that bad boy?
Im hunting for a manual transmssion too. It seems like the easiest and most practical thing to do is to buy a whole kit with everything and if you wanna save some money source your own trans used off ebay or what not. Like @Simonguey said make sure whatever you pick works with your diff ratio or plan on buying a regear kit.
 

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I'd say R154 or an AR5 if you can find one. Works pretty well with the stock differential
This is an important factor, often overlooked until people have the new trans installed and realize their gearing sucks.

V160 and CD0009 both really need much taller differential gearing in the 3.10-3.20 zone, else you'll find yourself with a granny 1st gear and highway rpm of 3500+.

T56 magnum wide ratio works ok with stock gearing (3.73 manual trans, 3.90 automatics) except 6th gear will be useless to you at speeds less than 100mph

T56 magnum close ratio kinda works with stock gearing, but shorter gearing helps a lot. Fortunately it's a lot easier in these cars to shorten gearing than it is to make it taller - because the Toyota/Subaru BRZ/FRS/86 have diffs that bolt right into IS300 and come with 4.10 and 4.30 gearing.
 

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didn’t know I would get a cel from a stand alone!
You’ll get a few depending on what measures you take. I never could make them all go away so I gave up trying since we don’t even have inspections here, let alone emissions.

I think it’s pretty hard to sneak by in California. You might be better off just buying a car that was factory turbocharged. At least you can have some fun and not worry as much.
 

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This is an important factor, often overlooked until people have the new trans installed and realize their gearing sucks.

V160 and CD0009 both really need much taller differential gearing in the 3.10-3.20 zone, else you'll find yourself with a granny 1st gear and highway rpm of 3500+.

T56 magnum wide ratio works ok with stock gearing (3.73 manual trans, 3.90 automatics) except 6th gear will be useless to you at speeds less than 100mph

T56 magnum close ratio kinda works with stock gearing, but shorter gearing helps a lot. Fortunately it's a lot easier in these cars to shorten gearing than it is to make it taller - because the Toyota/Subaru BRZ/FRS/86 have diffs that bolt right into IS300 and come with 4.10 and 4.30 gearing.
I actually just looked at the CD009 gearing and with some 25" tall tires the cd009 works pretty well with an auto diff except 1st is pretty useless but for crusing and commuting 25 30 40 and 60mph are all in pretty comfortable rpms with 60 rolls working well starting in 4th at 4k rpm. It does top out pretty early at 145 mph with 6k redline. You can do your own looking and decide what you like and based on your tire height. If you're really racing though you'll probably have some taller slicks anyways so it doesn't really matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You’ll get a few depending on what measures you take. I never could make them all go away so I gave up trying since we don’t even have inspections here, let alone emissions.

I think it’s pretty hard to sneak by in California. You might be better off just buying a car that was factory turbocharged. At least you can have some fun and not worry as much.
I DID! I CRASHED IT THO LOL.
i might just have a stock engine to swap in and out whenever needed honestly. seems like the best choice so far.

I actually just looked at the CD009 gearing and with some 25" tall tires the cd009 works pretty well with an auto diff except 1st is pretty useless but for crusing and commuting 25 30 40 and 60mph are all in pretty comfortable rpms with 60 rolls working well starting in 4th at 4k rpm. It does top out pretty early at 145 mph with 6k redline. You can do your own looking and decide what you like and based on your tire height. If you're really racing though you'll probably have some taller slicks anyways so it doesn't really matter.
def will read up on gear ratios because all this has done is confuse me more on what trans i need lol
 

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In my experience, the T56 close ratio with the 3.9 rear from the auto makes for a horrible experience. The shorter first would be much better for normal usage. The close ratio (2.66) tops out at close to 50mph in first vs 45 for the 2.97 with a 7k redline. Doesn’t seem like a lot but it’ll make it much more useable in my opinion. Cursing at highway speeds with the 2.66 also puts it right in the drone zone for me but if you don’t normally drive ~80mph on the highway then it’s a moot point.

A heavier flywheel setup will help tremendously but most clutch/flywheel setups are fairly light. Pairing it with a 4.1 or 4.3 rear like suggested will also help quite a bit.
 

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def will read up on gear ratios because all this has done is confuse me more on what trans i need lol
I't helps to know how youre going to drive the car. If your just gonna drive it around as a fun car and dont plan on alot of 140mph plus then look at gearing that'll put your common speeds,25 40, 60,80, in good rpm. If you plan to go to mexico and do 40 rolls youll want something with a good top end around 160+ and put 40 and 60 in higher rpms to build boost. Your tire height will also matter. Big slicks will make for taller gears. If you're going through alot of traffic a short first gear can be nice to creep though without shifting. Keep in mind you can get the same speed in different gears at different rpms. Also keep in mind down shifting if you down shift from say 60youll want something aroudn 4k rpm so you can accelerate and start in boost and have room to grow. All depends on what your going to do and run and what you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I't helps to know how youre going to drive the car. If your just gonna drive it around as a fun car and dont plan on alot of 140mph plus then look at gearing that'll put your common speeds,25 40, 60,80, in good rpm. If you plan to go to mexico and do 40 rolls youll want something with a good top end around 160+ and put 40 and 60 in higher rpms to build boost. Your tire height will also matter. Big slicks will make for taller gears. If you're going through alot of traffic a short first gear can be nice to creep though without shifting. Keep in mind you can get the same speed in different gears at different rpms. Also keep in mind down shifting if you down shift from say 60youll want something aroudn 4k rpm so you can accelerate and start in boost and have room to grow. All depends on what your going to do and run and what you like.
well i will most likely have a second car for going to work and will drive this on weekends and weekdays when i feel like having turbo surge blasting out the car. uhhhh i am definitely spirited driving but also drive pretty calm. traffic in the bay is the worst but i doubt i will mind having to shift alot. i definitely want something as reliable as possible that gets the power down quicker than later if possible. might go with the r154 mainly because its what I've seen most people have. might change my mind once i start reading up about gear ratios but IDK. i don't understand standalone all that much so i doubt gear rations will click in my head.
 

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traffic in the bay is the worst but i doubt i will mind having to shift alot.
take it from someone in the LA area, a tall first gear and a light clutch will suck. I don’t even think about driving the Lexus if I expect any traffic. So definitely pay attention to your gearing and clutch/flywheel setup if you think you’ll spend any amount of time in traffic even in a weekend car. It’s not the shifting that’s going to be bad, it’s being constrantly on the edge of stall and modulating a heavy clutch without revving the piss out of it everytime traffic stops that’s going to kill.

I have a launch control/2-step sequence setup specifically for when I find myself in LA traffic on a incline. It holds 2000rpm for me and I just quickly slip the clutch. People like to ride real close bumper to bumper and inclines make that difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
take it from someone in the LA area, a tall first gear and a light clutch will suck. I don’t even think about driving the Lexus if I expect any traffic. So definitely pay attention to your gearing and clutch/flywheel setup if you think you’ll spend any amount of time in traffic even in a weekend car. It’s not the shifting that’s going to be bad, it’s being constrantly on the edge of stall and modulating a heavy clutch without revving the piss out of it everytime traffic stops that’s going to kill.

I have a launch control/2-step sequence setup specifically for when I find myself in LA traffic on a incline. It holds 2000rpm for me and I just quickly slip the clutch. People like to ride real close bumper to bumper and inclines make that difficult.
what trans do you got? I’m going for whatever you have then because you have a real good point! I hate la traffic
 

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what trans do you got? I’m going for whatever you have then because you have a real good point! I hate la traffic
I have a T56 close ratio with a 3.9 rear. Also, I think you misunderstand me … my combo is nearly impossible to drive, for me at least, in traffic. I know what not to get but as far as what to get…no idea…

well I have some ideas, t56 wide ratio (2.97 1st gear) with 4.33 rear (from a brz?) and a clutch offering from Grannas. I’m partial to the OS Giken TR2CD since it’s sprung. Obviously budget plays a huge part. The R154/AR5 swap is tried and true and significantly cheaper last I checked…3 years ago. I hope it’s still cheaper because if it’s any where close to half the cost of a T56 mag swap, go T56 mag.

The T56 mag is really a tr6060. I have never felt a manual anywhere as nicer as this but I also haven’t been in high $ manual cars. The T56 proper sucks, complete mush in comparison.
 

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I have a T56 close ratio with a 3.9 rear. Also, I think you misunderstand me … my combo is nearly impossible to drive, for me at least, in traffic.
Interesting. I have a T56 close ratio, McLeod RXT twin clutch and drove it for a year with 3.73 rear end gears. I found it completely drivable, but first was a bit too tall to be totally comfortable - and 6th was worthless for speeds less than 80mph - and honestly - even that lugged the engine a bit. It was much happier at ~90mph @ ~3200rpm in 6th.

I installed a 4.30:1 BRZ diff, which fixed everything.

I have some ideas, t56 wide ratio (2.97 1st gear) with 4.33 rear (from a brz?) and a clutch offering from Grannas. I’m partial to the OS Giken TR2CD since it’s sprung
The 2.97 first is the only good thing about the T56 wide (when discussing 2J powered IS300s). The gear ratio splits are much wider, and that is going to mean a lot more turbo lag between shifts. Perhaps worst of all, that 0.50:1 6th gear will be useless to you without a really, really deep rear end gear:

T56 close has 0.63:1 6th gear, T56 wide has 0.50 6th, R154 has a 0.75 5th, W55 has a 0.85 5th

0.85 * 3.73 = 3.18 overall ratio (stock manual IS300)
0.75 * 3.73 = 2.80 overall ratio (R154)
0.63 * 4.30 = 2.71 overall ratio (T56 close which is what my car has now that works well)
0.63 * 3.73 = 2.35 overall ratio (T56 close which is what my car had before and sucked)
0.50 * 4.30 = 2.15 overall ratio (this is what you are proposing)

As I mentioned, I have a Mcleod RXT twin - which gave me pause when I ordered it, because it is unsprung. However, it feels great. If I try, I can get it to chatter a little - but I have to try. The feel is great, engagement is smooth, and the pedal is light. Probably best performance clutch I've ever felt.
 

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Interesting. I have a T56 close ratio, McLeod RXT twin clutch and drove it for a year with 3.73 rear end gears. I found it completely drivable, but first was a bit too tall to be totally comfortable - and 6th was worthless for speeds less than 80mph.

I installed a 4.30:1 BRZ diff, which fixed everything.
It’ll depend on where you live. I used to be able to drive 15 miles to go shopping and not have it be a bit deal. Being back in Los Angeles, 1 mile of highway can take 45 minutes. That’s the worst normal rush hour traffic I’ve been in. The good thing is that it’s consistent when traffic forms.

I’m not sure how different the OS Giken triple and the McLeod RXT is but the OS a tiny grabby clutch. Drivable will also differ from person to person. It just doesn’t slip as easily as I want it to and there’s not enough rotational mass to not stall without adding quite a bit of gas for inclines.

My IS300 had a sprung McLeod single before this. That was easier to drive. It’s the combination of light clutch assembly and tall first that made it bad. A 4.3 rear would solve my problem but it’s not my daily and the mountains are away from the traffic (and surface streetable when there is traffic). The daily is a lot more traffic friendly. Something about displacement.
 

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There was some good gear ratio discussion in this thread:

 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
There was some good gear ratio discussion in this thread:

all these gear ratios are confusing me but i shall read this thred!! what do you guys think about my build tho?? i am also going to make a 1jz and 2jz gte build to price out what would actually be "better for the price" since its almost around the same thing.
 

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what do you guys think about my build tho?? i am also going to make a 1jz and 2jz gte build to price out what would actually be "better for the price" since its almost around the same thing.
Somehow I missed your spreadsheet plan. Looking over it:

  • A BW S366 is way too big for a ~500hp build and you'll have a lot more turbolag than you should. Even an S362 is too big. Check out the S261 sx-e; it's kind of an S200/S300 hybrid
  • T51R mod seems like a luxury to pursue only if you have lots of extra money
  • Rods/pistons are a good idea. You won't know what pistons you need until you've measured the bore diameters in your block.
  • Your spreadsheet has nothing about engine block and/or cylinder head machine work
  • I think performance springs/retainers are a waste of money for 500hp
  • I think oversize valves are a bigger waste of money
  • I think a triple fuel pump hanger is unnecessary; a 255LPH pump will do 500whp on gasoline, a 340 will do it on E85
  • 1000cc injectors are minimum; personally I like injector dynamics

Regarding ECU:

You need to choose an approach...

  • You can keep the stock ECU and have it do most of the work - and use a tuner to edit. Something like a DET-3
  • You could keep the stock ECU only for the functionality it provides that is difficult to reproduce (automatic trans, HVAC controls, instrument cluster).
  • You could remove the stock ECU altogether and have the new ECU handle everything.

If you're clueless about ECU stuff, seems likely you'll be having a professional perform at least the calibration/tuning - if not the installation as well. If so, you should talk to some potential shops and discuss what ECU products they suggest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Somehow I missed your spreadsheet plan. Looking over it:

  • A BW S366 is way too big for a ~500hp build and you'll have a lot more turbolag than you should. Even an S362 is too big. Check out the S261 sx-e; it's kind of an S200/S300 hybrid
  • T51R mod seems like a luxury to pursue only if you have lots of extra money
  • Rods/pistons are a good idea. You won't know what pistons you need until you've measured the bore diameters in your block.
  • Your spreadsheet has nothing about engine block and/or cylinder head machine work
  • I think performance springs/retainers are a waste of money for 500hp
  • I think oversize valves are a bigger waste of money
  • I think a triple fuel pump hanger is unnecessary; a 255LPH pump will do 500whp on gasoline, a 340 will do it on E85
  • 1000cc injectors are minimum; personally I like injector dynamics

Regarding ECU:

You need to choose an approach...

  • You can keep the stock ECU and have it do most of the work - and use a tuner to edit. Something like a DET-3
  • You could keep the stock ECU only for the functionality it provides that is difficult to reproduce (automatic trans, HVAC controls, instrument cluster).
  • You could remove the stock ECU altogether and have the new ECU handle everything.

If you're clueless about ECU stuff, seems likely you'll be having a professional perform at least the calibration/tuning - if not the installation as well. If so, you should talk to some potential shops and discuss what ECU products they suggest.
i will look into injector dynamics!!! yes i left out machine work but it will definitely be done!! i am looking at halteck since they have a switch to change boost. i would like to keep the car at 500 but would like to be able to switch it to 800 if possible with what i have up there. i was going for a big beefy turbo since i do want to have some low boost turbo surge! i know its bad but low boost turbo surge should be thhhhhatttt bad on this turbo! and yeah lol t51r mod makes my insides feel funny.
 
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