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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
alright. I've been reading a boat load honestly. sadly I have the mental capacity of a goldfish.

I am making this post for my own future reference (to minimize the number of tabs I need to save and revisit cuz ima forget them all).

i made this list to make 500hp. i want to be able to have more power if I really want to but my last car did 530 and I'm cool with that or 500.

items in yellow im debating on switching.

suspension im already taking care of. i have almost everything besides the clutch pedal to swap in a w55 which i will do soon to get a hang of driving a manual since ive mainly owned a 2018 kia stinger that i crashed in july. i miss the speed and the swwwooooooshhhhhh sound.

i am still doing a lot of reading but i am slowly starting to forget certain things so i am making this list of parts. i plan on starting to buy these items now and having everything ready to turbo the car later next year. going to buy a second hoopty to get around while my isvroom is under construction. these are the main items. will be buying more smaller etc things that i end up finding on other posts but any feedback on the items i have listed would be good. i added a section for questions i currently have while making the list. if someone could hit each tab that would honestly be amazing! still doing research of course and will be doing a w55 swap very soon.

def need help on the standalone. I live in Cali so IDK if stand-alone is the best option to get around smog checks. if standalone is the best option please help me pick one since i am also illiterate and can't seem to wrap my head around this no matter how many times i read the pinned tab on this topic.

if yall want the links i added on the excel sheet which i turned into a pdf let me know and i can add that in later today or tomorrow.

any help or advice on the items i picked or if you can recommend a better option that would be very handy! thank you
 

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def need help on the standalone. I live in Cali so IDK if stand-alone is the best option to get around smog checks.
Turbocharged, you have a 0% chance of passing a visual smog inspection.

To pass an electronics-only smog test, you'll need to retain OEM ECU, and ensure all your major monitors pass: catalyst monitor, O2 monitor, evap, fuel system. That'll be tough

To pass a real test where they sniff the tailpipe while on the dyno, you'll need to have excellent calibration and good catalysts installed.

In short, passing Cali smog is either gonna be tough, or you'll need an inspection shop willing to cheat the draconian law.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Turbocharged, you have a 0% chance of passing a visual smog inspection.

To pass an electronics-only smog test, you'll need to retain OEM ECU, and ensure all your major monitors pass: catalyst monitor, O2 monitor, evap, fuel system. That'll be tough

To pass a real test where they sniff the tailpipe while on the dyno, you'll need to have excellent calibration and good catalysts installed.

In short, passing Cali smog is either gonna be tough, or you'll need an inspection shop willing to cheat the draconian law.
Benjamines it is!!! Yeah Cali is an interesting state tbh!
 

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I’ve looked into passing smog with a standalone. But the stand also is really just a advance piggyback. The good news is CA does obd2 plug in only for the IS300 and the standalones out there will not change any ecu parameters. If you reflash the ecu with that one company that supposedly does it ( Quantum auto?), the scanner will detect it for sure.

The standalone will mostly just give you check engine lights for ignition and vvti. You can get a vvti bypass resistor and that will trick it off. The ignition fault thing can be bypassed relatively easily. I can’t find the solution right now but check this thread out:standalone = CEL

Obviously you would have to retain the stock o2s and MAF. I’m fairly certain this would pass smog visuals aside. You can also unbolt and rebolt the turbo kits every 2 years for smog.This was my plan before everything got out of wack so I can exactly comment on how well it works.
 

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You can get a vvti bypass resistor and that will trick it off
The stock ecu is too damn smart for just a bypass resistor. It’ll complain about the cam timing being off from what it’s expecting. Best thing for VVTi cel defeat, is to put the solenoid back on the stock ecu for testing. The IGF sim for P1300 works great though.
 

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GTE swap, CD009 trans, 62mm turbo
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You are planning on doing a W55 swap and then doing another transmission swap in the future? if im understanding this correct its a big waist of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
much appreciated! I didn’t know I would get a cel from a stand alone! Will def look into that!


You are planning on doing a W55 swap and then doing another transmission swap in the future? if im understanding this correct its a big waist of money.
it would be if I bought the set up! Last owner actually have me everything except the clutch pedal and the gas pedal cap thing! I need those two things so I’m not really worried about that besides wiring
 

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I've been thinking about this for a while:

Most inspection states simply plug a scanner into the OBD2 port (Data Link Connector), navigate to the page where the monitors show pass or fail, ensure all (or enough) have passed, and call it good.

Considering the communications protocol is standardized, documented and published - why doesn't anybody make a little black box you splice into the RX/TX wires going to the DLC, so you have the black box connected to the DLC instead of the ECU?

The black box would be programmed to respond to the scanner commands (which are standardized), and report back whatever you wanted it to say... namely, that all monitors have passed and the vehicle has complete emissions readiness.

Seems simple enough. Obviously illegal, but so is removing catalysts. Plus, this would be a "novelty", "for off-road use only" product.

A refinement could include the blackbox receiving signals from the ECU (rpm, fuel level, etc) so the blackbox could even tell the scanner that data, too - making it even more believeable.
 

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I've been thinking about this for a while:

Most inspection states simply plug a scanner into the OBD2 port (Data Link Connector), navigate to the page where the monitors show pass or fail, ensure all (or enough) have passed, and call it good.

Considering the communications protocol is standardized, documented and published - why doesn't anybody make a little black box you splice into the RX/TX wires going to the DLC, so you have the black box connected to the DLC instead of the ECU?

The black box would be programmed to respond to the scanner commands (which are standardized), and report back whatever you wanted it to say... namely, that all monitors have passed and the vehicle has complete emissions readiness.

Seems simple enough. Obviously illegal, but so is removing catalysts. Plus, this would be a "novelty", "for off-road use only" product.

A refinement could include the blackbox receiving signals from the ECU (rpm, fuel level, etc) so the blackbox could even tell the scanner that data, too - making it even more believeable.
Montana and Washington now doesn't require emissions to register cars. Lots of car are straight pipe or no cats here because it gets stolen all the time.
 

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That's why I said Montana...all you need is a PO box :).
Driving in California with a Montana plate and a CA license is not a good idea. The state passed laws specifically targeting people who register out of state but live in state. A nosy neighbor can just report you and you’ll be done. For Washington, you need a WA ID to get car registered which means showing up in person for the application. Not a far drive from CA in my opinion but doesn’t solve the problem mentioned above.

There are areas within CA that are smog exempt. Mostly in the northern parts I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Driving in California with a Montana plate and a CA license is not a good idea. The state passed laws specifically targeting people who register out of state but live in state. A nosy neighbor can just report you and you’ll be done. For Washington, you need a WA ID to get car registered which means showing up in person for the application. Not a far drive from CA in my opinion but doesn’t solve the problem mentioned above.

There are areas within CA that are smog exempt. Mostly in the northern parts I believe.
im up north!!

looks like I'm going to have to pay under the table or have a second engine ready for swaps at all times lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not too sure how long a W55 will hold 500 wheel for. I'd do a minimum of a W58, but recommend R154 or greater.
The w55 will only be on while the car is basically stock. Mainly to gain skills on using a manual. Main problems right now is smog, trans and engine management! I keep reading and watching mixed reviews about each trans. W58, r154 and the c9 so it’s a bit hard for me to really decide on which I want to end up switching to
 

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2001 AR5 Swap, Built NA-T, Standalone
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The w55 will only be on while the car is basically stock. Mainly to gain skills on using a manual. Main problems right now is smog, trans and engine management! I keep reading and watching mixed reviews about each trans. W58, r154 and the c9 so it’s a bit hard for me to really decide on which I want to end up switching to
It is kind of a headache picking a transmission. I hunted on eBay for months before I found my AR5. For 500 I'd say R154 or an AR5 if you can find one. Works pretty well with the stock differential and uses all OEM parts (and stuff you can still buy new).
 
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