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Thanks to SophieSleeps and Joe-Z for originally developing these modifications.

**Whenever working with electronics, unplug the battery, I can't be responsible if you electrocute yourself (don't let that scare you, as long as you're careful, you shouldn't have to worry). Likewise, we are also not responsible for any damage you inflict upon your car attempting these modifications.**

What You'll Need:
12mm socket wrench w/ extension
No DRLs:
electrical tape

Full Power DRLs:
short piece of wire (14ga worked well for me)
wire stripper or scissors
electrical tape

Here is where we are working, passenger side of the engine compartment, the DRL box is the small box with yellow caution label mounted on the strut tower. **The box is hot when the DRLs have been running, be careful**

This connector must be disconnected for both modifications:

The connector is very tight, you must push down on the portion that I have my thumb on to disconnect it

Here is where the two modifications diverge, first, disabling the DRLs:

cover the connector with electrical tape to seal it from the elements and protect it from shorting.

To clean it up, tuck the loose connector under the adjacent wire harness and secure with electrical tape

Full-power DRLs

Looking into the loose connector, you will see two slots with metal contacts

Cut a short length of wire (I used 14ga, 12ga was a bit too large, you don't want to go too small, otherwise the resistance may cause the wire to heat up) and strip the ends

Insert the ends of the wire into the two slots in the connector, this bypasses the box which is a regulator which provides less power than directly wiring the DRLs, thus increasing the output of the DRLs

As with the other modification, seal the connector with electrical tape and tuck it under the adjacent wire harness.

Optional for either modification: remove the DRL regulator box

Since both of these modifications remove the DRL box from the circuit, you can remove the box from the car. Simply unbolt the two nuts on the shock tower with a 12mm socket wrench with extension.

Now you're done

You now either have no DRLs or you have brighter DRLs (good for use with whiter bulbs to better match the headlights). Neither of these modifications modify any other functions of the car, including high-beams. If you also removed the DRL box, you just shaved 1/2 a pound off your car by my scale, with all this excess weight removed, you're shit will be FAST, you should easily be able to beat any car you come across provided you use 3rd gear (and the PWR button if you are E-Shift**)

**Neither I nor condone illegal street racing, please test this claim in controlled conditions on a track.
Does anyone know why I can't get these pictures to work? Thanks
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