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Thanks to SophieSleeps and Joe-Z for originally developing these modifications.

**Whenever working with electronics, unplug the battery, I can't be responsible if you electrocute yourself (don't let that scare you, as long as you're careful, you shouldn't have to worry). Likewise, we are also not responsible for any damage you inflict upon your car attempting these modifications.**

What You'll Need:
optional:
12mm socket wrench w/ extension
No DRLs:
electrical tape

Full Power DRLs:
short piece of wire (14ga worked well for me)
wire stripper or scissors
electrical tape


Here is where we are working, passenger side of the engine compartment, the DRL box is the small box with yellow caution label mounted on the strut tower. **The box is hot when the DRLs have been running, be careful**


This connector must be disconnected for both modifications:


The connector is very tight, you must push down on the portion that I have my thumb on to disconnect it


Here is where the two modifications diverge, first, disabling the DRLs:

cover the connector with electrical tape to seal it from the elements and protect it from shorting.


To clean it up, tuck the loose connector under the adjacent wire harness and secure with electrical tape


Full-power DRLs

Looking into the loose connector, you will see two slots with metal contacts


Cut a short length of wire (I used 14ga, 12ga was a bit too large, you don't want to go too small, otherwise the resistance may cause the wire to heat up) and strip the ends


Insert the ends of the wire into the two slots in the connector, this bypasses the box which is a regulator which provides less power than directly wiring the DRLs, thus increasing the output of the DRLs


As with the other modification, seal the connector with electrical tape and tuck it under the adjacent wire harness.



Optional for either modification: remove the DRL regulator box

Since both of these modifications remove the DRL box from the circuit, you can remove the box from the car. Simply unbolt the two nuts on the shock tower with a 12mm socket wrench with extension.


Now you're done


You now either have no DRLs or you have brighter DRLs (good for use with whiter bulbs to better match the headlights). Neither of these modifications modify any other functions of the car, including high-beams. If you also removed the DRL box, you just shaved 1/2 a pound off your car by my scale, with all this excess weight removed, you're shit will be FAST, you should easily be able to beat any car you come across provided you use 3rd gear (and the PWR button if you are E-Shift**)

**Neither I nor my.is condone illegal street racing, please test this claim in controlled conditions on a track.
 

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Beware when shorting the DRL plug for full power. I've seen a connector melt as a result of doing so. There must be some strong current going through to be able to do that.
 

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OK, I've done exactly as described and still have half power on DRLs. Literally NO Box and 14G jumper and still have half power. Can anyone explain this?
 

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Same here, I have LED bulbs and they hardly light up, but they work perfectly when I turn on the high beams.
 

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Hey guys. I need help on my lighting situation. I just swapped out my Drl/Highbeam bulbs with an hid conversion kit. i have tried unplugging the drl resistor box near the intake. They look super sexy at night when i turn the highbeams on. But does anyone know how i can get these hid lights running when i have the parking lights on.

Before I swapped the bulbs out they worked along side the parking lights when i turned the light switch near the steering wheel 3 clicks "putting it into parking light mode".

So again if anybody knows of any mod or trick I can do to get these hid Drls working along side the parking lights it would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. the pictures aren't working lol.
Thanks guys!!!!
 

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Sorry to bring up an old thread, but i think i have a valid question..

I will be installing halos, and want to delete my DRLs, and have my halos be DRL. Could I just unplug the DRLs from the resistor, and wire the halos into that, or will that cause problems with the high beams? The main reason I want to do this, is so my halos can work on the factory light switch next to the steering wheel. If this isn't the best way to do this, what would be better?

Or what if I unplugged the wiring from the little resistor box, and wired my halos into that wire? Would that make them run off the light switch next to my steering wheel? Or would there be a problem with the high beams, or too much current going to the halos. If you don't think I should do it this way, what would you suggest as a better way to do it? My main concern is to have the halos be on the stock switch, making them look as OEM as possible.

Thanks in advance,
 

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300forever,
The best (IMO) way of doing this is to use an accessory's voltage as a signal for a simple 12Volt relay (slightly higher amperage than the expected draw of the Halo/Demon Eyes). An accessory is anything that gets power going to it when the ignition is on (make sure it's not getting power all the time too). The most accessible place is the climate control panel, specifically the clock or AC pot. You can check which wire you want to tap into by using a multimeter with one lead in the back of the connector and one lead on a known good ground. Also you may way to add in a switch between the signal and the relay just in case you want to turn them off at any time.
 

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Thanks to SophieSleeps and Joe-Z for originally developing these modifications.

**Whenever working with electronics, unplug the battery, I can't be responsible if you electrocute yourself (don't let that scare you, as long as you're careful, you shouldn't have to worry). Likewise, we are also not responsible for any damage you inflict upon your car attempting these modifications.**

What You'll Need:
optional:
12mm socket wrench w/ extension
No DRLs:
electrical tape

Full Power DRLs:
short piece of wire (14ga worked well for me)
wire stripper or scissors
electrical tape


Here is where we are working, passenger side of the engine compartment, the DRL box is the small box with yellow caution label mounted on the strut tower. **The box is hot when the DRLs have been running, be careful**


This connector must be disconnected for both modifications:


The connector is very tight, you must push down on the portion that I have my thumb on to disconnect it


Here is where the two modifications diverge, first, disabling the DRLs:

cover the connector with electrical tape to seal it from the elements and protect it from shorting.


To clean it up, tuck the loose connector under the adjacent wire harness and secure with electrical tape


Full-power DRLs

Looking into the loose connector, you will see two slots with metal contacts


Cut a short length of wire (I used 14ga, 12ga was a bit too large, you don't want to go too small, otherwise the resistance may cause the wire to heat up) and strip the ends


Insert the ends of the wire into the two slots in the connector, this bypasses the box which is a regulator which provides less power than directly wiring the DRLs, thus increasing the output of the DRLs


As with the other modification, seal the connector with electrical tape and tuck it under the adjacent wire harness.



Optional for either modification: remove the DRL regulator box

Since both of these modifications remove the DRL box from the circuit, you can remove the box from the car. Simply unbolt the two nuts on the shock tower with a 12mm socket wrench with extension.


Now you're done


You now either have no DRLs or you have brighter DRLs (good for use with whiter bulbs to better match the headlights). Neither of these modifications modify any other functions of the car, including high-beams. If you also removed the DRL box, you just shaved 1/2 a pound off your car by my scale, with all this excess weight removed, you're shit will be FAST, you should easily be able to beat any car you come across provided you use 3rd gear (and the PWR button if you are E-Shift**)

**Neither I nor my.is condone illegal street racing, please test this claim in controlled conditions on a track.
Does anyone know why I can't get these pictures to work? Thanks
 
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