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Michael said:
So is the DVD different or the hardware different or both?

Mborner, thx for the info! +rep! I'm going to title your post, so that other '07 owners see it. BTW, any idea of the updated dvd disc for '07 will ALSO make it more difficult for our '06 vehicles to override the destination while moving?

Also, just to be clear do you tap the left side of the screen just once to get the override button to appear?
The most current update available at this time is 2005. This is what the 06's are shipped with. Expect to see the next update (2006) at the beginning of November. Unfortunately I don't have any insight into the software revisions. Since both 2006 and 2007 IS's use the GEN 5 system and both use the same part number for the NAV computer my guess is that Lexus is shipping the 07's with the 06 update. So, it sounds like the 06 update will eliminate the override function on an 06 model. I'm still doing reserch to find out more.
 

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My DVD data version is 6.1 so i think it's the newer version. I purchased my car a week ago. I haven't checked the build date. When i get a chance i'll go look.
 

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Okay, it appears that the 07's are in fact shipping with the newest software installed. This software is not yet available over the counter, though. The only way to replace the DVD in an 07 at this time is to have it done under warranty.
 

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The override is probably still lurking in there somewhere. hopefully some well-connected or ingenious individual will figure out how I can press enter if the car starts to roll just as i've selected my marked destination . . .
 

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man i really need the new DVD though...well i might. i'm in a new city that has a brand new bridge built connecting downtown charleston and mount pleasant (where i live) and they completely changed every on/off ramp and the entire interstate/highway system for the city. basically nothing is right on the 06 dvd for me and i could use it as the car never knows how to properly get somewhere until i get it on one of the major streets downtown.
 

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mborner said:
Okay, it appears that the 07's are in fact shipping with the newest software installed. This software is not yet available over the counter, though. The only way to replace the DVD in an 07 at this time is to have it done under warranty.
So what would putting an '07 dvd in our '06s do for the overfide. Disable the option?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
ALEXIS said:
Hey Mike, what up? It's Rey. :p
Hey, have not seen ya at the auto-x??? Thought you were going to take the IS out?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
While pushing the info button turn lights on off 3 times. This will take you to the Diagnosis menu.

Then press on the upper right corner, upper left, bottom right, bottom left of the screen. A NEW SCREEN WILL POP UP. (Product Diagnosis Menu) The menu contains

1. Drive Recorder
2. Touch SW Adj
3. Calibration
4. Vehicle Signal
5. Soft Version
6. Tel Voice
7. TFT Adj
8. Display Memory
9. SRam Clear
10. BT RF Test
11. Rom/Ram R/W
12. Check Sum
13. Data Logging
 

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Workaround for navigation override (bypass) for 2007 ISx50

BACKGROUND INFORMATION:

2006 ISx50 = V5.1 DVD Navigation disc = V1550 firmware = Override Exists
2007 ISx50 = V6.1 DVD Navigation disc = V1650 firmware = NO Known Override Exists

FACT #1:

Upon inserting the V6.1 DVD into an ISx50, the firmware will be AUTOMATICALLY updated to V1650. Hence, you will lose your override.

FACT #2:

It is possible to go back to the old firmware. Yes, you heard me right. You can go back to your old firmware. It is NOT a problem at all, despite what Lexus and others may tell you. All you need to do is remove the fuse for the nav unit and put the old V5.1 disc back in. It may take 1-2 attempts, but the nav unit will load the old firmware with no problems. Many of us have gone back and forth between numerous firmwares on the ISx50 without any problems whatsoever.

FACT #3:

The firmware file is located on the nav DVD and is called "loading.kwi". This is only loaded when the power is cut to the nav, or a newer firmware is detected.


SOLUTION TO OVERRIDE:

You will need to own BOTH discs (V5.1 and V6.1) and a PC with a DVD Dual-Layer burner that supports bitsetting (booktype) in order to do this.

1) Copy all the files from the V6.1 disc to your hard drive into a directory called "nav" (or whatever name you want)
2) Copy the loading.kwi file from the V5.1 disc to your hard drive into the same "nav" directory, overwriting the existing loading.kwi file
3) Burn all the files in the nav disc directory to a DVD+R DL disc - Booking type (bitsetting) DVD-ROM

You now have a DVD with all the map data and new features of the V6.1 disc, with the firmware + override of the V5.1 disc.

This has been confirmed to work on an ISx50.

The biggest variable here is your burner software settings, although many variables exists, including what type of media you use, what burning software you use and the type of burner you have.

FYI, our successful burns used:
1) Various media (Verbatim and Memorex)
2) Various burning software (dvd decrypter, isoburn, or Prassi Ones)
3) Various burners (plextor, benq, samsung, liteon)
4) Burner software settings must set - Book Type (aka Bitsetting) = DVD-ROM

Hope this helps those of you who wanted to upgrade to the new V6.1 DVD but don't want to lose the override.

"Pro-Override gang" signing off...
 

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Lexus ISx50 Front Spoiler Ground Effects Install DIY

This is the Front Spoiler Ground Effects, aka X-Package Front Spoiler, aka Front Air Dam...

Everything is on the website in my sig, but I thought I'd post a DIY here anyway:

The instructions for installing the Front Spoiler Ground Effects Lip are lengthy and call for drilling into the front bumper... I didn't do any of that... The stock front lip is held in place by 9 screws and 2 clips... The Front Spoiler Ground Effects Kit has the same 9 screw holes and 2 clip holes... Plus, it has some double stick tape on the ends to hold the tips against the front bumper... I just installed the new Front Spoiler Ground Effects using the same hardware as the original lip, and the factory double-stick tape that came on the Front Spoiler holds the ends of the spoiler tightly against the bumper... No drilling, no extra tape... I'm sure with drilling and more tape it would be more secure, but if anything is going to rip this Front Spoiler off, it's going to take the entire front bumper with it since there are 9 large screws holding it in...

Here is the car stock, with the stock front lip:



Here are the screws that hold the spoiler in place:



And here are the clips on the end that also hold the spoiler in place, they are the black things above the screws:



Stock airdam removed:



The new Front Spoiler slides right into place and put back the original screws and clips and you're done!

Finished pics:





Hope this helps anybody considering doing the install themselves, it's pretty straightforward... :thumbup:
 

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Headlamp Washers Modification DIY (Disconnecting them from windshield washers)

On the ISx50, if your headlights are on, and you use the windshield washers, the headlamp washers will automatically activate... I didn't like this... There is a separate button for the headlamp washers that activates the washers so why would you want them to go on automatically if you just want to clean a small smudge on your windshield?

So, this is a DIY on how to disconnect these two systems so that when you wash your windshield, the headlamp washers don't activate automatically... Full pics are on my website (in my sig) as well...

I want to give a HUGE thanks to my buddy lobuxracer for all his help... He basically figured this whole thing out, I just did the execution since he doesn't have the HW option on his IS...


HW DIY MOD:

They key is to prevent the signal from the windshield washer from ever getting to the headlamp washer... This is done at the main engine fuse/relay box under the hood... It's located on the drivers side near the front of the car...



This is the box, held in place by 3 clips shown... Simply press on the single clip near the front and pull the lid off...



The wire in question is under the Front Connector Block, Connector 2F, PIN 8... To remove this Block, there are two clips on either side of it... Press both at the same time and pull it out...



This is the connector underneath the Front Connector Block that we are interested in... Unplug this...

The wire we are interested in is right in the middle, PIN 8... It is an orange/blue striped wire with silver paint markings...



I used a tiny 1.5mm flat head jewelers screwdriver to release the wire from the connector... You can then use heat shrink or electrical tape to tape up the end of the wire and tuck it away... Alternatively, if you want, you can just cut this wire and be done with it... But, I decided that when I get rid of the car, I wanted to re-enable this feature so at that time I can just remove the tape/heat shrink and stick the wire back into the connector...

Put things back together and you are done... I tested it afterwards and it works like a charm... The only time the headlamp washers will activate is when you press the headlamp washers button...

This is a VERY simple hack... Enjoy! :cool:
 

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Navigation Hack Part Two - Destination Entry While Moving Switch DIY

This is a "add-on" DIY for those of you who have already done the nav hack. As we know, the nav hack does NOT enable destination entry while moving... Only mp3 folders while moving, bluetooth phone dialing while moving, and if you have ML, it also enables DVD watching while moving...

If you have V5.1 of the navigation DVD, you can use the override function hidden in the volume menu. But, this must be done every time you start your vehicle, and if you have V6.1, the override is hidden/gone, so that's not even an option (unless you use my hybrid disc method)...

But anyway, for those of you who want to be able to enter destinations while moving at the flip of a switch, this is the DIY for you...

Quick background:

The nav display and nav unit (brain) are two separate parts... Each one has a VSS (Vehicle Speed Signal) wire running to it telling them when the vehicle is moving... The standard nav hack cuts the VSS to the nav display, but leaves it running to the nav unit (brain)... This is why you still can't enter destinations while moving, because the nav unit (brain) knows the car is moving... If you cut VSS to the nav unit (brain) then the nav will not work properly because it is using ONLY GPS signals to calculate the vehicle position... So, my solution was to install a switch in between the VSS source and the nav unit (brain) so that when I want to enter destinations I just flip the switch, enter destinations, and when I'm done, flip it back...

So, in summary here's what the switch does:

1) Switch off - Vehicle is in normal operation, nav hack fully enabled, and VSS is reaching the nav unit (brain) - Smooth navigation, destination entry while moving NOT allowed

2) Switch on - VSS is cut, not reaching the nav unit (brain) - Navigation is jumpy/not accurate, destination entry while moving IS allowed

When you switch from on to off, the nav almost instantly becomes smooth again! Very nice...

On to the DIY:

First, cut/unconnect the pink wire that you connected to the silver/white wire (J50 pink wire, J1 silver/white wire) when you originally did the nav hack...

Get two long pieces of wire... Connect one of these pieces of wire to the Pink wire coming out of the loom that originally went to J50...





Next, take your other long piece of wire and connect it to the silver/white wire that originally came out of J1...

Here is my added black wire crimped to the white/silver wire:



So, I think you guys can see where this is going... If we were to connect the two extra wires we just added, the nav hack would be the same as it was before we started... So, run these wires back behind the dash and out from the driver's footwell... Then, connect both of these newly added wires to the switch as such:



So, just run these wires under the dash, tucked up and zip-tied... If you get down where the pedals are you can see up under the dash quite well and secure the wires there... I removed the plastic cover under the dash but I don't think you even need to do that, I just wanted to get a better view... It's not that bad at all...

Now, to mount the switch, I chose the dead switch/panel location to the left of the steering wheel... I removed the side instrument panel cover to get to the back of the 3 buttons (note, in this picture I have already removed the blank and ran the switch through:



You can barely squeeze the clips holding in the blank with some tools, which is what I did. The blank then comes out.

Here is a picture of the blank:



As you can see, you really can't "cut out" an area to mount a switch, unless the switch was TINY... And the plastic is VERY thick (.25") and hard, so it would be difficult to cut even if you could find a mini-rocker switch.

So, here is a picture of my instrument panel with the switch coming out. Unfortunately, the first rocker switch I bought was too small, I wrapped a rubber band around it so it doesn't fall through the cutout:




The Toyota switch I used (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/tech/switch/) is NOT an exact fit in the slot where the blank used to be... The inner opening of the dash is not big enough as there are two small plastic bars on either side... So, I took out a handy file and filed them down smooth... The Toyota switch was then a perfect fit, and the blank was also still able to fit in there perfectly (if you ever wanted to return it to look like stock)...

It takes some skill and patience to file down the opening perfectly, but it's not that difficult...

UPDATE: This switch - http://www.oznium.com/gsw-45 Appears to be a perfect fit, but no one has tried it yet... Either way, it doesn't have any markings (which I like better), so if anyone wants to do this hack, I'd recommend this switch...

Anyway, here is a picture of the files I used as well as the dash covered up with blank tape to prevent accidental scuffing while filing the inner hole:




The finished product:




Anyway, as usual, this is all on my website... Hope this helps some people who either don't have the software override functionality or who would prefer to have a switch...

One caveat: If you are traveling at high speeds (such as 55+ MPH on the highway) the system will eventually (after 1 minute or so) realize you are moving as it is receiving GPS coordinates... So, if you are at highway speeds and flip the switch, you'll have about 1 minute of time to enter your destination... Then it will be locked out again... But, all you have to do is flip the switch off and back on again and it will unlock... At slow speeds I think this only happens after 2-3 minutes, maybe longer... I've never taken long enough to enter a destination to find out...

Enjoy!
 

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Seat belt chime On/Off

Someone posted the steps on how to disable the chime over at CL...
Just did it...works.

Here are the steps:

1. turn the key to the ON position which means pressing the start button twice on the new IS since it doesn't has the key, foot off the brake
2. Press the trip reset button couple of times until the ODO is displayed (not trip A or B)
3. turn the ignition to the LOCK (OFF) position
4. unbuckle the driver's seatbelt if it was buckled.
5. turn the key to the ON position again press the start button twice. when the dash lights comes on, press and hold the trip reset button and count a slow 12 seconds. (editor's note, hold it more like 30 sec)
6. while still holding the trip reset button, buckle the driver's side seatbelt.
7.and the odometer display should read "b ON" or "b OFF". toggle the beep OFF with the trip reset.
8. the process should be completed when you unbuckle or turn the key off.



Is this for 1st gen or 2nd gen IS'?
 
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