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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well i just wanna say thanks to wingzero's diy thread, when i first saw it though it was a tad bit vague and i was thinking someone whos never pulled a fuel pump out before probaly wouldnt find it as informative, so last night after pulling mine out i made a step by step process on how.

*warning*
it is recommended to run your car dry of gas before doing this diy. if you do not wish to do so then you run the risk of getting gasoline on your car, or other surfaces, which may lead to unexpected combustion. preform this diy at your own risk

first remove your backseats, pretty much good trick here is put your hands were you feel the metal clips (circled in red) and from there give a good tug and you will hear an audible pop




next step is to remove the lid holding above the fuel pump, its located behind drivers side and has 3x bolts there weird plastic screws, 10 or 12 mm


then proceed to take out the 8 screws on the metal peice holding the pump in place, after those go you should be able to lift the pump up but its stuck about an inch but because the fuel cable is still attached. to detach the fuel cable grab the yellowish green clip and put it all the way out.


once that clip is out "slowly" with twisty motion is best remove the cable, should pop right out and you may get some gasoline on you, i got few drips.


now move the fuel line out the way and slowly pull up, you will meet 2 points of resistance. 1. is the fuel level indicator 2. is a rubber hose clamped onto the pump, you cant see it in this picture but you will know when you see it. clamp is kinda tough, i used some pliers then shimmy'd it down. for the fuel level indicator once you get the hose off angle it so that the metal comes out


i chose to d/c the cable once i pulled it out, but you can at anytime really "its tricky though you gotta use alot of force to get that clip down"



heres a pic of the hose once i taken it out, you cant miss it though


once everything is d/c'd go head and pull it out


alrite here comes the tricky part. the fuel pump housing is a bitch. there are 4 clips holding the top lid as pointed out by the red arrows. you will probaly have to use a screwdriver and its gunnna require a bit of force but remeber its still plastic so dont go hulk on that thing. the bottom part pointed by the blue arrrows were easy, might have the move that lil hose thing but cake deal.


once the top's off d/c the connector on top and with a lil twisty motion pull the stock pump out, take a lil bit of force and you might get gas on ya. oncce you pull it out you will find a spacer, a o ring and a cap on the tip, you can see my cap in this pic, its tan. save those as you will be re using them on the walbro


at the bottom of your stock fuel pump youll see a lil metal ring thing with 3 prongs angled but pointing towards you. thats the fuel filter retaining clip, in my pic i already moved it to the walbro but you will probaly need a screwdriver to unclip it





*warning*
be very careful during the next step, if you plan on soldering, which you should, that fuel pump is going to have deposits of gasoline, you can throughly clean there but there will be spots were you cant see, and a solderer is very hot, take caution and if you can solder the connections in a different area of the house, maybe backyard, keep a bottle of water handy w/ wet cloth.

now here comes the dangerous part, soldering. you shouldve purchased the walbro with the installation kit, "fuel filter plus pig tails" your going to need to clip the connector from the pump housing group and solder it on with the one provided in the kit. its red = pos black = neg, i drew 2 lines just if you were confused, but just rember black on black. now i forgot to in this pic but its reccomended that you "stagger" the connections meaning clip them at 2 different points, just incase if the rubber tube or e tape come undone they dont touch each other and spark, which is bad.


and after all that, you may put it back together and back step from there. enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No the pump does not add hp but it is a pre requisite for big injectors and big injectors is a pre req for bigger hp numbers. Haha I wouldn't call my turbo thread a write up =P
 

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I've installed 2 pumps in the tank (using alum pump hanger) one year ago.
I this year i change my setup w/ fuel collector tank (installed in the trunk) with same 2 walbros inside and leave std pump in the main tank.
My results:
1. Now I see that this is most reliable way to have more fuel w/o air because the pumps always have clean fuel (collector tank always full, fuel filtered by std pump filter in the main tank).
2. The SARD 5L fuel collector tank cost little bit more than PHR or SRT pump hanger, you need only one bulkhead fitting in the main tank for return line and little bit more 6AN hose to route lines to the trunk. You can use some noname fuel collector tank (copy of sard) it's cost about $200

SARD 5L


Noname (as old SARD model)


p.s.: sorry for my english ;)
 

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Anyone else have a problem with their Walbro not connecting properly? I've had nothing but problems since I installed my 255 lph. It sputtered, and had inconsistent fuel pressure at idle and low RPMs. I yanked the unit back out only to find that the top of the fuel pump was leaking (where it meets the sending unit) and allowing fuel pressure drop... causing massive headaches with sputtering. So I replaced all of the o-rings, and made sure the pump was seated right. After I re-installed, it ran great for the initial startup, but went right back to sputtering from there. I put the Walbro on the shelf, put the stock FP back in and it runs great again.

Now my stock FP went bad... so I'm faced with this whole dilemma again.

My question related to this post is: Did you install the Walbro pump exactly how the stock pump was installed, or did you use the supplied hose and hose clamps?
 

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Likely going to have to do this in the next few days to replace my fuel pump. Couple questions.

1. Do you run the car bone dry of gas first until it actually dies or just until gas light comes on?
2. Any tips for when this is all reinstalled and after putting some gas in the car to restart it? Or is it as simple as reconnecting battery and starting car normally?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Likely going to have to do this in the next few days to replace my fuel pump. Couple questions.

1. Do you run the car bone dry of gas first until it actually dies or just until gas light comes on?
2. Any tips for when this is all reinstalled and after putting some gas in the car to restart it? Or is it as simple as reconnecting battery and starting car normally?
i did not run my car dry, but it is safest too
 
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