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· Registered
573 Posts
Thanks to Juic, pics are now restored. Also added TB/WP pdf at the end of this post as well.
This is a DIY Guide to Installing the Timing Belt, Water Pump and Serpentine Belt. I've collected all this information from previous posts and put it together in an easy to view format.

Many thanks to BRIAN TII (Pictures and Instructions), sfjason (Additional Pointers), black86 (O-Ring Guide), and mborner (Part Numbers)

- 5-6 HRS

- 10mm Socket Wrench
- Breaker Bar
- Chain Wrench
- Modified 10mm Wrench

- Timing Belt: Part No. 13568-49036
- Tentioner: Part No. 13540-46030
- Idler: Part No. 13505-46041
- Drive Belt: Part No. 99366-D1930
- Water Pump: Part No. 16100-49876-83
- T/Stat: Part No. 90916-03093
- T/Stat Gasket: Part No. 16325-62010
- PCV 5/2000-5/2001: Part No. 12204-46030
- PCV 5/2001 and up: Part No. 12204-46031
- PCV Grommet: Part No. 90480-18001
- O-Rings Bypass Pipe: Part No. 96761-24022 (Qty=2)
- O-Ring Bypass Outlet: Part No. 96761-24028

1.) Remove Airbox

2.) Remove Cam Gear Cover

3.) Remove Underbody Cover

4.) Drain Coolant

5.) Disconnect Radiator Hoses and Radiator Brackets

6.) Disconnect Electrical Connectors

7.) Disconnect Tranny Fluid Lines from Radiator

8.) Remove Radiator

9.) Remove Drive Belt

10.) Remove Timing Belt Cover(s)

11.) Use Chain Wrench to hold crank pulley while using 6 foot breaker bar to remove Main Crank Pulley.

12.) Cut up old drive belt to keep the chain wrench from tearing up the pulley... they aren't cheap.

13.) Breaker bar used to loosen main crank pulley bolt.

14.) Picture of a "modified" 10mm wrench created for the Integra valve jobs.

15.) Picture with all timing belt covers off. Make sure you mark the belt, the pulley positions, etc... I especially found that marking the belt was very handy so that I knew how many teeth were between each pulley both before and after. (Fortunately they where the same :) )

16.) T-belt removed, don't turn any pulleys.

17.) O-Ring Setup

18.) Water pump removed.

19.) This is what it should look like after putting on a new pump, belt, etc... Notice I haven't pulled the pin out of the tensioner yet.


1. The crank bolt is hard to get off, but all you need is a 22mm deep socket and a big cheater bar if you have a manual transmission. Just put it in 5th gear, pull the emergency brake, and pull really hard. One tip is to wrap a pillow in a garbage bag and put it where your cheater bar might hit the fender in case you aren’t able to stop pulling in time.

2. The timing belt tensioner can be compressed with a bench vise, but make sure you put the pin and rubber seal on the right way. I had it backwards the first time which isn’t apparent until you try to put it back in the car.

3. I marked the old timing belt so I knew how many teeth were between the camshaft gears and the crankshaft gear. That helped me put the new one on correctly the first time. (The second time I wasn’t so lucky… see number nine below.)
timing belt

4. A standard harmonic balancer puller works great to pull the crankshaft pulley. Just make sure you have metric bolts.
crankpulley puller

5. The PCV valve in my car is threaded on. The replacement one I bought has a grommet instead. Make sure you get the right one for your car.

6. You don’t need to pull the power steering pump like it says in the service manual. You just need to remove the power steering pump bracket out of the way so you can access one of the timing belt cover bolts.
pspump bracket

7. I bought the Toyota Extra Long Life coolant. It was friggin’ $23 compared to the Prestone universal kind at $12. I didn’t think it was going to be that much more but oh well… I guess it’s not a big deal if you just change it once every 100,000 miles. (Tip: the parts guys said the “super” long life coolant is the same as the long life, just pre-mixed with water so you don’t have to dilute it yourself.)

8. Make sure you engage the number 2 water bypass pipe when you install the water pump. I missed it the first time and didn’t realize it until I was almost done buttoning it up and realized I had 2 extra nuts that didn’t have a home. Doh! That really sucked as I had to tear everything apart to fix the problem.
water bypass

9. Make sure your timing belt position stays true after you release the tensioner. (I would release the tensioner before you put anything back on and count the teeth between pulleys again.) I had thought everything was fine until I put the crank pulley back on and found out that I was off by a tooth. Doh! Had to take a few steps back (again) as a result.


· Premium Member
27,050 Posts
congrats sdfontanini on the DIY job! I was too scared to do it myself. Then again I found a trustworthy garage that did it for a great price.

Did you have any issues while doing the work? Or did things go smoothly for the most part?

+rep for the DIY job

· Registered
195 Posts

It's great to have somebody that set aside time to take pictures and document their work during the work. That's more helpful than anything else IMO. I'm creeping up on 90K and will be ordering parts soon.

How much coolant did you put back in to top it off after disconnecting and reconnecting the hoses and the sort? I intend to get the super LL so I don't have to mix. It was flushed at 60k so I just want to top it off for now. Probably get it flushed again in the spring. Same with the transmission fluid(automatic). How much did you/anybody use to top it back up after disconnecting the lines from the radiator? I don't want to be sitting on a boat load of extra fluids. ATF is not good on cereal. Coolant, however, is.

· Registered
9 Posts
I used about 80% of one coolant container and 80% of a gallon jug of distilled water. So you'll probably need 2 containers of the premixed stuff.

Slightly off topic - What do folks do with their old water pump? Is it worth anything to anyone as a core or anything?

· Registered
195 Posts
Maybe keep it in the trunk for roadside repairs?
I'm interested to know if we can send parts like that in for a core. Somebody's gotta rebuild those things right? The cases probably never wear out. The impeller and bearings are moving parts. What's left? Clean it up and make a hundred bucks off it.

· Registered
195 Posts
Got this stuff priced out from irontoad this morning. They're quick with the replies. I hear nothing but good things about their shipping too.

Here are your prices for your...
2001 IS300...
T/Stat: Part No. 90916-03093------$14.04
T/Stat Gasket: Part No. 16325-62010 ------$4.07
PCV 5/2000-5/2001: Part No. 12204-46030 ------$8.64 (fits your vin)
PCV Grommet: Part No. 90480-18001 ------$3.52
O-Rings Bypass Pipe: Part No. 96761-24022 ------$2.18 each(Qty=2)
O-Ring Bypass Outlet: Part No. 96761-24028 ------$2.18
water pump 16100-49876-83-$172.98
timing belt 13568-49036-----$26.40
idler pulley 13505-46041-----$64.43
timing tensioner 13540-46030-----$54.82
Serepentine tensioner 16620-0W025----$149.05
Serpentine belt 99366-D1930-----$22.92

527.41 parts total
18.46 shipping
545.87 total

Plus I'll pick some coolant up from the local Toyota dealer at 18.95 each and probably some trans fluid too.

A bunch of these parts probably don't need to be replaced. I'll take that as it comes.
Alot of people say, you're in there, just replace it. Cheap insurance, blah blah blah. Others say if it is isn't broke don't fix it. How do you know the part you're using to replace the unbroken part isn't defective blah blah blah. We'll see. I've got 10 days to return anything I don't use once the stuff shows up. Planning the adventure for saturday the second.

· Registered
195 Posts
add this stuff

This service is really easy. I think a trained helper monkey could do it.

Things to add to the service:

Upper radiator hose: 16571-46310
Lower radiator hose: 16572-46290

The hardest part is the crank pulley. I ended up pulling the condenser and front bumper because I'm an idiot and didn't throughly think through the SST I made for loosening the crank pulley. Ended up bending one of the 2 bolts and pulling the threads out of the bolt hole. Had to pull the front end to get a drill in there to drill the holes to 3/8 and tap them. Make sure you have the proper tools. I don't think it will affect the rotational dampening because it's just aluminum and the dampener is that steel plate behind the pulley. I'm glad I pulled the bumper though. It was great to have the accessibility to sit on a stool to reassemble everything. The only unfortunate thing is that I had to evacuate the AC system to pull the condenser. I had the local Toyota shop vacuum and refill the system though. $155 is not too bad IMO. I guess the trained helper monkey has got a one up on me.

The overall feel is nice. The car seems smoother and a bit more responsive. The 92 non-oxygenated gas may have contributed to that as well. I'm glad it's finally done though. I've been thinking about it for about 1.5 years.

· Registered
480 Posts
What's the 5/ mean?

It's the production date. If your car was built 7/2001, it was built
in July of 2001. In this case Toyota (Lexus) changed the part number
of the PCV Valve on 5/2001. So you use the part number that applies
to your Date Of Production. :)
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