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DIY: Removing the dash, center console, and painting them *tons of pics*

138K views 107 replies 63 participants last post by  BrokeIS 
#1 · (Edited)
Preparation.

First off yes, there are plenty of other threads already made on this topic as well. But, almost every thread I come across has come up with broken images. So for the sake of clarity, I've decided to compile what I found and incorporate some tips along the way :)

Here is what I used:

Paint thinner


2-3 cans of flat black paint (must be able to bond to PLASTIC)


Sponge (2 sided)



Philip head screw driver


Ratchet (I used 3/8 drive) and extensions


14mm socket, 12mm socket, 10mm socket




Something to label your nuts n bolts, etc (so you don't lose any, or use the wrong ones when assembling everything back together)
 
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#59 ·
I wouldn"t clear coat it. Reflections on your windshiled would be retarded.
 
#61 ·
I finally tackled this today (been pushing it away for the longest) and it came out great, this write up was very helpful. Spent the late afternoon and late night doing this and when i put power back on my dash lights dont come on, AC, radio shifter lights arent on. Im assuming i forgot to plug something and i think i know what i missed, but can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
#64 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I actually got it out and it was very easy. I was just pushing up in all the wrong places.

Also, much thanks for putting this thread together! I couldn't removed everything without it. Now I just need to remove the sticky and paint.

I'm going to use black satin as flat was not available, and I'm thinking I may like it better...we'll see.

Did the airbag have a rubbery surface feel after stripping? I stripped that one piece this evening and thought the surface had a strange feel. I'm hoping that the paint will bond to it.
BTW, I'm trying the Citristrip that was suggested in another thread. So far it is awesome.
 
#66 · (Edited)
For those of you that used the Rustoleum Universal Paint - flat black, was the finish smooth or rough?

I ask because I used the Duplicolor Vinyl flat black and it leaves the surface rough to the touch. I've only painted the airbag cover and part of the console, so not to late to switch to another brand if it's a little smoother finish.
 
#70 ·
The entire dash was repainted, the radio, AC control, vents weren't painted. It's held up strong ever since I painted it. I can vouch for it being in extreme heat over the summer, San Bernardino heat baked the inside of my car while it was at my mechanic's house for a few months. It's held up great so far.
 
#71 ·
I guess I put this job off to the side long enough. I started it last night I wanted to see if warm soapy water would just eventually wipe off the sticky material. Of course didn't do too well :suspiciou (first pic). Then I ate dinner and all of a sudden had a thought of to use rubbing alcohol to see if that material would come off. It did, with ease too! I only did it on the parts that have the really sticky material like everyone else did I'm unsure if I want to do the whole dash, if I decide to do the whole dash I might buy the paint stripper. I did it with the dash in the car because I wanted to see what would work. So far the rubbing alcohol is doing ok. :rolleyes:

What do you guys think? Do you think I should just continue or go with the paint stripper route?

Before, also with trying to use warm soapy water.



How it looks at the moment. I swear I only wanted to do a little spot.HAHA. I left the inside edges alone so when I pull the dash out I will have better angles to get to it. Of course that's if I don't do the entire dash.

 
#72 ·
Rubbing alcohol may work, also give denatured alcohol a shot... I plan on doing this same thing step-by-step, but I'll be using iso alcohol with a microfiber cloth instead of soapy water for prep. I've done a fair amount of painting in my years as a sign maker, soapy water has the potential to leave a film behind and/or other contaminants.
 
#75 ·
well boys/girls i completed this mission lol before pics are a few posts up so here are the after:












oh and then my LED lights came in for the dash and the ring so i put'em in! Some of the numbers look kinda white i personally think its the camera (iPhone) because it doesnt look like it in person. Fuel gauge looks dim because of the angle im at.. but oh well photography isnt my job! lol

 
#77 ·
READ THIS BEFORE ATTEMPTING

DONT USE CRAPPY PAINT!

So, I did my dash two weeks ago and was really disappointed with the outcome... the Rustoleum paint looked inconsistent and chipped off easily.

I finally found the *perfect paint* for this job, so I ripped it all back out and redid it all :(. It's called SEM Color Coat and it's the same shit used by body shops. It's fade resistant and designed for dashes (flexible plastic/vinyl). It's really expensive, but worth it. You can find it at professional paint shops.

My method:

1) Strip off the sticky stuff w/ paint thinner
2) Wetsand imperfections down with 800/2000 grit sp
3) Scrub with soapy water
4) DRY 100%
5) Apply SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter (if you want it to last)
6) Apple SEM Paint just like any other (light, 10 mins between coats)





BEFORE:





AFTER:

SEM "Landau Black" (semi gloss oem look)





SEM Color Coat applies like a dye to the plastic, it dries smooth and extremely durable compared to the cheap stuff. Highly recommend it!
 
#81 · (Edited)
Well, also it's super humid here in Houston and that makes it harder to paint. Clear coat = impossible here. Another issue I had was Rustoleum cans shooting blobs of paint and drying with lighter spots even after 4 coats.

To each his own, you can use Walmart stuff or the pro stuff. SEM is absolutely top notch and the chemical flash time is pretty decent too.
 
#86 ·
2 cans to be safe. Again, my dash has held up just fine since I posted this thread...If you want to venture off with other paint that's no problem, turbotrauma's dash came out looking great. Just don't take his word and assume what I used to be 'crappy,' the evidence speaks for itself.
 
#90 ·
I used acetone and rags to get the bulk off and then acetone and bristle scrubbing brush to get into the textured surfaces. You really need to get stuck into it and get all the little bits out, otherwise the dies and paints wont bind to the substrate and just sit on top of the bits of the original coating eventually cracking and bubbling. It takes a bit of work, but like any good paint job the end result is directly related to the prep work more than anything else ;)
 
#91 ·
BTW, Rust-oleum also have a line of fabric and vinyl paint. Fabric and vinyl paint may have more flex agent than universal paint to prevent flaking. The SEM mentioned here is also a fabric and vinyl paint.

Auto Specialty Paints Fabric & Vinyl Product Page

@Turbotrauma sanding with 2000 grit may be too fine? Scuffing with 800 may be a better idea?
 
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