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Here are some pics of how I made my P1300 CEL Simulator. Thanks a lot to Leo (lambchop11078) for answering my countless number of PM's and BlackSportD for figuring out the NPN pinout.

Here is a diagram of what components you need and what stuff to connect:


I used a magic marker to draw my circuit on the copper clad board:


I cut the original ABS plastic 3x2x1 enclosure box I had so it's nice and small. Then test fitted my PCB board:


I then started the etching process:


Then I used rubbing alcohole to take off the marker. I was then left with the copper lines:


Then I drilled the holes for the diodes and transistor:


Then you place the components on the opposite side of the board without the copper lines:


After you sodder the diodes and transistor where the copper lines are:


Then you sodder the wires, I used 20 guage wiring. The red wires are the IGT1, IGT2, and IGT3. The green wire is IGF and black wire is ground:


I screwed the board down into the box:


Here is a comparison of the original enclosure box size and the size I cut it down to:


And here is the finished P1300 CEL Simulator inside its enclosure:


Hope you guys like it!
 

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Hey moiz arent you gonna be running Haltech? You will have Cel's no matter what you do...
If he has a basic standalone and turbo setup then the only CEL that may appear are either a misfire or a long term fuel trim. The good thing is the long term fuel trim DTC causes the CEL to appear after the 2nd time it registers so if he resets the ECU then it'll never show it's ugly head.
 

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o ok. Cuz I just recently got my car back from SRT. He installed the f10X, and gte internals. I usually have 3-4misfire codes, and a shitloads of O2 sensor codes, running too rich, heater malfunction... all kinds. About every other time I drive the car.
 

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o ok. Cuz I just recently got my car back from SRT. He installed the f10X, and gte internals. I usually have 3-4misfire codes, and a shitloads of O2 sensor codes, running too rich, heater malfunction... all kinds. About every other time I drive the car.
Assuming Moiz has 1 real working heated primary O2 sensor then he'll be fine. That 1 sensor will feed the heater signal to the remaining heater inputs. The O2 will need to feed the narrowband signal to both B1S1 and B2S1. Then he'll need an O2 simulator and pretty much all the big O2 DTCs are gone minus the long term fuel trim. After that it's tuning for a smooth idle and somewhat stoich cruise. However he will need a relay to reset the ECU.
 

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Nice moiz87. Props and +rep for etching your own board.
 
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