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Does anybody know if a Toyota dealership would have an equivalent part for the actuator itself? The Lexus dealer is a bit of a drive from me.
I would get one on ebay. They are a lot cheaper than what the dealer would charge you. If you plan to just replace the motor its like 3 bucks or so and the actuator itself can go for $80 if you find one on a good day.
 

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I would get one on ebay. They are a lot cheaper than what the dealer would charge you. If you plan to just replace the motor its like 3 bucks or so and the actuator itself can go for $80 if you find one on a good day.
Can't believe how common this issue seems to be. I've had my 2007 is250 for about 6 weeks and this issue just occurred, I've replaced(or at least attempted) to replace the door lock actuator in my old Camry, I had to give up about 4 hours in and take it to a shop, I did not have the right tools to be able to work inside the door. I wouldn't mind paying the dealer to do it if it was halfway reasonable.
 

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I've never done it on an IS250, but I did it on my IS300. I don't know how much of a pain it was to do it on the 250, but when I did it I had no idea what I was doing with the clips and stuff.... But certainly once you get it done once you know what your doing. Good thing is that you tried and knew when to quit before things got out of hand.
 

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I typed in is300 door lock actuator on ebay and got the set of 2 for 6 bucks. Have installed and it does work. Just make sure you take your time and pay attention to how everything comes apart when your taking the actuator off and opening it up. Take pictures so you know how it goes back together. I got mine back together and it ended up being reversed. My unlocked button locked only my drivers door and unlocked the other 3 doors. So i tested the wires to the motor and cut and switched the two that send power to lock and unlock and it worked great and kept me from having to take it all back apart.
 

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I just did this on my 2007 IS250. These instructions helped a bunch! I ordered the motor on ebay which was listed with the part number -no need to use a dremel.

A couple of tips:
I learned to make sure the door handle release is inserted into the actuator when you put it back in - otherwise the door doesn't open from the outside.
My actuator looked a lot different than the examples. I managed to pry it apart enough to slip the motor in and out - I couldn't figure out how to disassemble the two sides.
Once I was done my power windows didn't work from the driver's side main control - a quick google search gave me the answer that the windows have to be reset/reprogrammed.
 

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I just replaced my actuator motor this afternoon....Those stupid rods that go from the latch assembly to handle/tumbler suck. Like seriously. I wasted an hour just screwing around with those things. Also I didnt have something aligned quite right when I replaced the motor and before I could do testing the wind blew my door shut....FFFFFFF

Anyway, it will be easier if I ever have to do it again. But seriously...those stupid rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I just replaced my actuator motor this afternoon....Those stupid rods that go from the latch assembly to handle/tumbler suck. Like seriously. I wasted an hour just screwing around with those things. Also I didnt have something aligned quite right when I replaced the motor and before I could do testing the wind blew my door shut....FFFFFFF

Anyway, it will be easier if I ever have to do it again. But seriously...those stupid rods.

I felt the same way. first go around was annoying to learn and figure out how those clips snapped onto the rods...

but its been several years and the replacement motor is holding up well
 

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i finally after taking everything apart 3 times figured out how to get it all out of the door, now to oder the replacement parts
 

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I should also point out that the drivers door now has a much more authoritative THUNK than the other doors. Not in a bad sounding way just perhaps in that the others are getting weak compared to this fresh new motor.
 

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Hey I ran into a problem doing this to my passenger front door. The motor I bought spins the other way. So if I hit lock on my key fob it unlocks my door but keeping all other doors lock. Any idea what I can do? Or does anyone have the wire diagram on the oem plug so I can switch the polarity?
 

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Hey I ran into a problem doing this to my passenger front door. The motor I bought spins the other way. So if I hit lock on my key fob it unlocks my door but keeping all other doors lock. Any idea what I can do? Or does anyone have the wire diagram on the oem plug so I can switch the polarity?
Sounds like a polarity issue. On the passenger and rear doors the motors are wires the same. Green/yellow is ACT+(positive trigger) and red/white is ACT-(negative trigger). Do you have the motor hooked up as so? I have the wire diagram posted in the DI manual in the stickies on page 949. Lemme know if you need a link.
 

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I reinstalled everything back with my old motor for now but the lock/unlock harness has been untouched. Can I just cut the negative and positive wires on the oem harness and switch the polarity without affecting the other door locks? I've contact the seller but currently waiting for a response.
 

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^^please note above. I went back and corrected the same noise. I did not have a hot glue gun or super glue. I used two zip ties properly connected and positioned to keep the two pieces of the cover together. Nothing beats a $10 fix instead of $80.
This noise?

https://vid.me/VZYv


DAAAAAMNIT. It started yesterday after a week of wonderful operation. Naturally a nice hot day had to ruin it. Also I think this new motor is significantly more powerful than the old ones and thats REALLY whats causing the issue. Its so powerful it ends up distorting that plastic cover with torque.
 

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I reinstalled everything back with my old motor for now but the lock/unlock harness has been untouched. Can I just cut the negative and positive wires on the oem harness and switch the polarity without affecting the other door locks? I've contact the seller but currently waiting for a response.
I'm not sure which motor you ordered but this is the exact one I ordered and it works perfectly.

 

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This noise?

https://vid.me/VZYv


DAAAAAMNIT. It started yesterday after a week of wonderful operation. Naturally a nice hot day had to ruin it. Also I think this new motor is significantly more powerful than the old ones and thats REALLY whats causing the issue. Its so powerful it ends up distorting that plastic cover with torque.
its been a few years.. so my memory may be a little off... the noise sounded SIMILAR.. but not the same.. the noise from your video sounds like a "shudder" - before i zip-tied it the cover together it sounded like the cover was popping open.

once i zip-tied the cover - the noise went away. i agree the motor sounds "too powerful" but i attributed that to a fresh motor compared to one that has been worn. I will say that since the day i put in the new motor compared to today - it doesnt sound as loud.

how did you seal the cover back together?
 

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I sealed the cover back together just by popping it back in place. I was very careful prying it apart and saw no reason why it shouldnt just snap back together nice and tight which it appeared to.

I also find it odd that it took a week for this to happen, then again its about 15 degrees hotter than when I installed it so the plastic is a bit softer I guess. If this ends up being an "imperfect" fix I'm going to have to write it off as a non viable option as I dont really like the idea of having part of my car glued or ziptied together.
 

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K
I am about to do this too.

Here's my question,

On ebay i see TWO motors.
One with just a round shaft for .99 cents
NEW / replaces Mabuchi FC 280PC-22125 and FC280PT-22125 - eBay (item 270717876995 end time Mar-16-11 13:11:13 PDT)

and one with a "Collar" on it for 8.90
MABUCHI MOTOR FC-280PT-22125 DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR REPAIR - eBay (item 120686174761 end time Mar-18-11 23:49:58 PDT)

Nobody has really addressed this collar? Do I want the 8 dollar one here, or is that collar going to come off the old motor?

I also read that someone completely swapped the old shaft in place of the new shaft.

Just though I would ask first.
:rebel:
I purchased 4 direct replacement motors (no modifications required) from Digi-Key for $25 (shipping included). Original motor was a PAN14EE 12AB and I installed the PAN14EE 112AA1 which has a little more RPM (12k vrs 9k) but is the exact same motor and their recommended replacement motor. Installed the first one and it works just the same as the existing locks. Have one more bad motor to replace and 2 spares for when the other two break.
 

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Just did my drivers door. It took a couple of hours but it was well worth it spending $6>$90+labor. Much love to this site, saved me money and I'm learning so much about my first car. Don't know how people did DIY stuff before car forums lol
 
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