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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So recently my wife's driver door stopped locking/unlocking with the key fob. After relentless searching and diagnosing the problem, i determined it was the door actuator motor.

I was able to hear the motor try to unlock/lock the doors, but it just didn't have enough "juice" to do it.

So i went ahead and bought these motors:

Part # - FC280PC-22125

after shipping it was $10 each motor.

I followed these steps to remove the door panel and get the entire actuator assembly out:
http://my.is/forums/f115/diy-actuator-install-tips-regulator-install-388787/

Thanks to is300_tinez2 for the great pics and write-up.

Once you have the assembly out, you will see the following:


I did not take any pictures while i was doing this, because my hands got dirty from that adhesive on the door and i didn't to get my camera dirty. But anyway the yellow arrows are pointing to screws that need to be removed. There is one more that i can't seem to get a good picture of. But what you want to do is remove the cover that the red arrow is pointing to.

Once you have the cover off and you have removed the little screws (if i recall there are a total of 5 screws) you want to remove the following component from the assembly that is circled in yellow. But before you start taking it apart, either take a picture of it or have a mental image of what it looks like because you need to reassemble it the same way after you are done.



Once you have the piece that is circled in yellow, you will need to pry off the cover. I used a pocket knife and slowly pried around the edges a little bit going around so i did it evenly. You will hear a pop, once you break it loose. Just do it carefully and slowly so you don't break anything.

Once you pry it loose you will see a small motor with a worm gear. you need to pull the motor out of the slot along with worm gear. You should be able to just slide the worm gear off without any resistance.

here is a side by side of the old motor (front of the picture) and new motor. You can see how the old motor has a flattened surface so the worm gear will not just spin in place. I needed to take a dremel and a sanding bit, to slowly grind away until the worm gear fit in properly.


And that is it.. you just need to reassemble everything. the same way you took it apart. So rather than buying the entire thing from the dealer for about $110-$150 or finding a used one on eBay for ~$80 you just fixed it for $10. It took me about an hour or so, cause i was taking my time to make sure i didn't screw anything up.

Some tips:

When you put screw back on for the handle assembly, make sure that you position it as far downward as possible, otherwise when you put the trim back on later it will not snap on. I needed to take the door panel off again because the trim didn't have room to snap back on.

When you put the door panel back on, angle it downward and start with the tweeter area. I found it was a lot easier to slip it into place.

UPDATE

Before you remove the old motor and gear, check to see how much clearance/play there is. I noticed the next day that AFTER i use the switch or key FOB to lock the doors, i was not able to manually unlock it without some "force". I need to pull everything off again, but i am figuring that when i dremeled the new shaft i didn't take enough off to give it a little slack like it originally had. Also when i put the worm gear back in place, i did notice that it was a little tighter fit, but i didn't think anything of it until now. I will update tomorrow after i pull everything again to fix it..

CONFIRMED that it was the worm gear fitting too snug. I just shaved the shaft a little more so it moved as freely as it did with the original motor. Works like a charm now...

Thanks again chunktwo! I can finally lock my door with the remote. And you do need a dremel to do this, I surprisingly bought a dremel on craigslist for only 10 bucks. What a steal!

Hints: If the motor starts making a clanking noise when unlocking, that means that the cover you removed to see the worm gear is coming loose. I had to hot glue that cover down so it doesnt open when i press the unlock button. Other than that the motor is perfect. Also, the motor i bought has a little bit of shaft in the rear, i shaved that down. Dont know if it did anything though.
^^please note above. I went back and corrected the same noise. I did not have a hot glue gun or super glue. I used two zip ties properly connected and positioned to keep the two pieces of the cover together. Nothing beats a $10 fix instead of $80.
 

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Nice write up! I just ordered the motor, so i should be doing this next weekend. I hate not being able to lock my driver door with the remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice write up, I will be using this guide shortly. Are there any motors or "bits" you could use instead of having to dremmel?
+rep
Not that i know of.. you can use a filer (sp?) but the dremel was just quicker and easier.. see first post for update..

Nice write up! I just ordered the motor, so i should be doing this next weekend. I hate not being able to lock my driver door with the remote.
Good luck. with it.. see first post for update..
 

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Thanks again chunktwo! I can finally lock my door with the remote. And you do need a dremel to do this, I surprisingly bought a dremel on craigslist for only 10 bucks. What a steal!

Hints: If the motor starts making a clanking noise when unlocking, that means that the cover you removed to see the worm gear is coming loose. I had to hot glue that cover down so it doesnt open when i press the unlock button. Other than that the motor is perfect. Also, the motor i bought has a little bit of shaft in the rear, i shaved that down. Dont know if it did anything though.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again chunktwo! I can finally lock my door with the remote. And you do need a dremel to do this, I surprisingly bought a dremel on craigslist for only 10 bucks. What a steal!

Hints: If the motor starts making a clanking noise when unlocking, that means that the cover you removed to see the worm gear is coming loose. I had to hot glue that cover down so it doesnt open when i press the unlock button. Other than that the motor is perfect. Also, the motor i bought has a little bit of shaft in the rear, i shaved that down. Dont know if it did anything though.
Glad to hear that it went good. i didnt realize what that noise was at first. I just thought the new motor was THAT STRONG. after i read your post i went back and zip tied the cover down.. No more noise and a working door lock.. glad it helped. =)
 

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Damn, you beat me to the write up chunktwo. Good job tho.

This should be the correct motor with the flat shaft. I did mine the same way with the dremel, but then I found this one with the shaft already flat sided. Mabuchi FC 280PT-22125

Do an ebay search, they're the same price iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Damn, you beat me to the write up chunktwo. Good job tho.

This should be the correct motor with the flat shaft. I did mine the same way with the dremel, but then I found this one with the shaft already flat sided. Mabuchi FC 280PT-22125

Do an ebay search, they're the same price iirc.

Thank you sir.. i will keep that info the next time i need it..

I am going to add the info in the first post for those that have the problem in the future.
 

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+Rep for reminding me that I need to do this. :)
 

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Hey, guys, any chance that my 2005 Highlander might use the Mabuchi FC 280PT-22125 motor inside the clamshell door lock actuator? Mine went dead about two weeks ago, and I can't pay the $575 dealer charge to have them repair my driver's door actuator.

The pictures here with the motor number given and where to buy, makes it seem like a slam dunk IF this little Mabuchi motor MIGHT fit into my door lock actuator. I know the Lexus is a much better car than my Toyota Highlander, but there might be a link for the fix.
Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.
Thomboy
 

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Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. I'll be ordering the motor this week and fixing my door locks now. +rep.
 

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just ordered mine and if you use the Mabuchi FC 280PT-22125 on ebay it actually says lexus door actuator fix. i ordered 2 just in case my other IS goes bad too. wish i would have searched this before i paid $50 5 months ago for a used lock assm only for it to go bad 4 months later. . .
 

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This is great write up! My driver door wouldn't lock when I bought. So I followed this write up and it works perfectly. Although mine is doing the "use a little force to unlock by hand" that chunktwo mentioned. So I will probably pull it apart again and shave some more off.

Side note: If you're using your roommates cordless dremel, much sure it's charged up before you pull everything apart. Haha! Filing that little shaft by hand takes FOREVER!
 

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I took a picture of where the motor sits if you would like to add it to your write up.

 

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I followed the instructions as noted above and everything went great. I don't have a dremmel so I used the hand file method and it worked fine for me. I just made a small groove in my wood topped workbench and set the shaft on the groove. Then I applied light pressure at first until it started to flatten and then I could start applying more force once I knew the shaft wasn't rotating. The only problem was getting the plastic "cup" that houses the opener handle to fit all the way back into the opening. The front "closer to the front of the car" sits out about a 1/4 inch. Not that noticeable so I'll play with it when I get more time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I followed the instructions as noted above and everything went great. I don't have a dremmel so I used the hand file method and it worked fine for me. I just made a small groove in my wood topped workbench and set the shaft on the groove. Then I applied light pressure at first until it started to flatten and then I could start applying more force once I knew the shaft wasn't rotating. The only problem was getting the plastic "cup" that houses the opener handle to fit all the way back into the opening. The front "closer to the front of the car" sits out about a 1/4 inch. Not that noticeable so I'll play with it when I get more time.
if i understand the problem u are talking about... see first post..

"When you put screw back on for the handle assembly, make sure that you position it as far downward as possible, otherwise when you put the trim back on later it will not snap on. I needed to take the door panel off again because the trim didn't have room to snap back on."

the trim i am referring to, i think, you call the plastic "cup" that houses the opener handle
 

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Thanks and here's my followup

Just fixed my bad actuator due to this awesome post.

Here's my input:

Initially, I wasn't sure how to remove the large black cover to remove the final screw. I was worried about breaking the plastic when trying to pry it off the motor body. Just work it slowly, but you should see how it the plastic is "keyed" into the motor body plastic.

Once the cover is off and the final screw is removed: there are 3 items to watch out for during reassembly.

The first obvious part is the cable which slips into a little plastic arm protruding from the actuator body. That's easy.

The other two are adjacent to each other. There's a ball-joint style mechanism (cupped-u that fits into a ball). That's easy to fit together as it has a lot of play.

The final thing is subtle: just a protruded peice of plastic which then fits into a hole in some metal fixture. That locates the two peices; without this mated up properly the ball tends to fall out of the u-cup quite easily.

Once you reassembled those 3 items, you put in a screw to hold them together. Then you can put the cover back on. But the entire assembly will loosely sit on top of each other. Line up the bodies properly so the bottom two screw holes are both center aligned, then drive in the final 2 screws. Now it's complete!

Pull the rods and the cables to test your assembly out. It should feel right.

Now on to the Mabuchi motor. I could not find a motor with a flat shaft on eBay (even though it was reported to be the case) So I wound up just dismantling the old and new motor and swapping the shafts. So old shaft goes into the new body. It worked just fine for me. I suppose you could try swapping the brushes themselves out, but this seemed like an easier approach.
 

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