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Ok, I'm back with another update - the 300N struts landed today, and after an almost monumental struggle, they're on! But, they're also not strong enough to auto-open once the boot is popped. Almost, but just not there. The 200's, which behaved pretty much exactly like Montoya's video (have to assist lift by hand, and can place it pretty much anywhere and it will stay there. The 300's can't auto-lift on pop, but soon as you give it a little flick with your hand, it will lift open fully, and fairly quickly (even giving a little bounce when it arrives at the top of it's travel). If you try to place it anywhere in it's opening arc and let go, it will open itself. They just don't have quite enough to power/strength to open from fully closed. I might try the addition of a spring to see if it gives it a little kickstart. So that's a shame, as I did like it auto-opening from the button press. On the plus side though, they're not so strong that it makes it difficult to close. In fact it's barely noticeable different on that front - can still do it one handed, the only real difference being (apart from if you let go it will reopen) that it needs a solid hand push to close it fairly in the catch.

They'll probably weaken over time so I might try 400's again (I sent the 400's back and got a refund in the end, less return postage - I kinda wish I'd kept one to see what the combination of a 300 and a 400 would do, as that would total 700Nm but alas, no can do). The 400's would be so hard to mount though: when I originally mounted them, the studs lined up with them being fully extended so they literally just clicked in place with ease. But because that didn't allow the boot to shut properly when fully compressed I had to move the hinge mounted studs, which means the struts need compressing about half an inch or so to allow the end to click on the ball stud. The 200’s I was able to compress by hand and slip over the stud (two hands to compress, then one to hold it, to stop it uncompressing, and one to guide it onto the stud). Couldn’t do that with the 300’s: I managed one in a similar fashion but it took several goes, using my palm to push the end to compress and then the other to grip it as tight as poss. The other side I just couldn’t do it, and was killing my palm (still hurts now, hoping it won't blister). So in the end I used a 4mm thick bit of flat stock, drilled a dimple in it with a 10mm drill bit (not fully through but 95%) and then used that to nestle the end of the strut (the hinge end was already mounted on the ball stud, this was the back end on the under shelf stud) and, lying on my back in the boot with my legs outside over the bumper, I could use two hands to compress the strut, hooking my thumbs over that beam type bit where the stud was mounted, to the point I could slip the strut end over the ball stud. Still took two attempts to get it on, so I think 400N's would be almost impossible to do - they're just too powerful!

No pics, as 1) inside it looks no different than the previous pics and 2) it's too dark for a video, so I'll do that tomorrow if I remember. Here's one of the dimpled flat stock though, glad I thought of it as my palm was suffering so bad!

136301
 

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Jesus! You're put'n in some work! You gonna stick with the 300s, then? I swear, if you just put in those brackets I recommended, and go with the top OEM hole and 14.0" struts, you could put in any strength strut you want with no pre-compression. I mean, you've made it so far and put in so much. It's super easy to put in the brackets. I'll bet you could find a place with free shipping and with a no-hassle return policy for the stronger struts. I used Lift Supports Depot, and they've been great.

To corroborate, the struts do break in and become slightly weaker after use. It's not much, though, and it doesn't change the characteristics of how my trunk behaves. It just makes it a little easier to close, maybe.
 

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I’ll probably stick with the 300’s. I could try 400’s again and see how much they soften/weaken with use (maybe enough to make the closing easier but still keep the auto-open). I know what you’re saying about the brackets and using the upper holes but they’re on now so until/if I change them again it’s not really worth it. We’re in different countries so I couldn’t use the same place you do, but I’m sure I could someone over here that can supply them. The dimpled flat bar works really well though. Wish I’d thought of it before I tried using my palms!!
 

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Right on! I'm glad you found a good solution that you're satisfied with. It's so cool how people on opposite sides of the globe can have the same problem at the same time and so conveniently share ideas and come up with a solution. Over the last week or so, I've been constantly popping the trunk, even when I don't need to. It puts a smile on my face every time. Cheers!
 

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Here's how the 300's behave when the boot is popped. Only takes a little nudge to get it to rise up, just need to get it a couple inches from the closed position.

 
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