Adjustable mounting is nice. But you will find the force that the strut puts out is high. Specially if you want to run two. LikeFirst off ... thanks to the OP for starting this thread!
I've been lurking these forums here and there for the past 4 years. First post here.
Just as with Matt-C and a few others, the torsion bar bracket in the trunk of my 2004 is300 broke (my trunk has the OEM spoiler). I had some boxes and such in my trunk; not sure if impact with those is what caused it, or if it was just fatigue. In any case, as Matt_C noted, the job for replacement of the brackets is not as simple as I'd like (no way I'd pay $400 to the stealership for the fix, either), and the brackets seem so lacking in beefiness that I can foresee the issue occurring again in the future. Additionally, the torsion system never really provided much support for my trunk anyway, and, unless I was on a perfectly flat surface, the trunk wouldn't even stay completely open on its own (I know now that I could have bent the torsion bars for more force, but I guess that's water under the bridge).
Anyway, so I'm looking at this mod, but I'd love it if I could get my trunk to open ALL the way, and to avoid the rubber bumpers. From what I've read on this forum, however, there's a delicate balance between where each end of the strut is placed (speaker side vs hinge side) so that the trunk opens enough, still closes without struts being too long, and the strut doesn't hit the underside on the speaker side. There seem to be several ways to get around the issue:
1) Use a strut that compresses sufficiently short yet extends sufficiently long--doesn't seem all that easy to find.
2) Use the Camry struts used by the OP, but attach them higher on the hinge side (e.g., using the highest OEM hole) while also attaching the speaker side end at a lower position (this would require and additional mod, such as a bracket that extends a bit lower). My intuition tells me that a small increase in the height of the attachment point at the hinge side should result in a relatively large increase in how much the trunk opens, while only increasing the height of the strut body on the speaker side by a relatively small amount. Similarly, the raising of the attachment point at the hinge side should also reduce the forcefulness with which the strut opens the trunk, since the torque it can generate will be reduced. Anyway, it seems like it's just a matter of finding the right balance, which is what I hope to do.
I have some right-angle iron rails that already have a bunch of holes drilled in them that I'm thinking might serve the purpose. Since a picture says a thousand words, I've attached a drawing covering the approach I'm thinking about taking.
If anyone has any input, I'd greatly appreciate it. I have yet to order the struts or any other equipment.
View attachment 136041
Matt_C was talking about doing also.